Quoted from LTG:Most people remember their first time getting their stomach pumped. More so if they got charcoal treatment and remember the resulting things coming out of both ends.
LTG : )
Many moons ago, we had a storage area under the stairs where we had some mouse poison. Mind you this was a little door on the backside of a closet under those stairs. We had a puppy that somehow managed to work the closet door open and, I am guessing here, the storage area door must not have been fully locked because he got a hold of the mouse poison. I have no idea how much charcoal they pushed through his system but I swear he was crapping charcoal briquettes for at least 10 days. (On a sidenote, that dog, now pushing 13 has an ironclad stomach...he can eat anything).
By the way, as always, amazing work. I keep telling myself I need to shoot you a PM to see if I can swing by one day and see your work in person.
Chris... I'm abut to purchase some "Half Time" Glazing putty from Amazon. However, I'm a bit confused as to what to purchase.
I just posted this thread on Pinside this morning... any help?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/half-time-glazing-putty-which-one-to-buy
Thanks
Kerry
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Chris... I'm abut to purchase some "Half Time" Glazing putty from Amazon. However, I'm a bit confused as to what to purchase.
I just posted this thread on Pinside this morning... any help?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/half-time-glazing-putty-which-one-to-buy
Thanks
Kerry
I answered it there.
Floor masked.
The transformer support is pretty ugly so I will paint that and simulate the cash box divider on the left to the right by painting it’s footprint over there.
It probably gets covered by the power box once placed but is as close as I can come to making it look symmetrical.
The outer is masked and inner painted.
I did this in reverse of how I might normally do it because I custom mixed the color by eye not by formula so I had to make certain I was done with the outside before moving to the inside with the small amount of paint left.
Theory being I could mix something close once again for the inner but never exact which is crucial on the outer.
Final clear is on the cabinet.
It will be at an 8 of 10 gloss level once dry so not a true matte finish nor gloss but a level somewhat in between by design.
I want it to pop a bit but not to be overly glossy
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Beautiful... do/did you polish the clear after shooting it?
Thank you. I get asked about that finish often so to summarize.
It is a straight out of the gun finish.
When dealing with anything less than full gloss you lose the option of sanding and or polishing.
It has to be sprayed perfectly no runs or obvious dust particles or else it has to be sanded and done once again.
The act of polishing it would raise the gloss level and defeat the purpose
Very tough finish to achieve because of that but it is worth it in the long run.
Cabinet is ready to rebuild now but I need to figure out how I want to refinish the trim.
It is textured black from the factory so Si could easily freshen that back up .
Alternatively I could sand it prime it and sand it again for a smooth finish in virtually any color then clear it.
With the parts already having a solid powdered base to work off of it eliminates that step that would normally be needed prior to painting.
If I go the smooth repainted route
What color?
Full gloss or semi?
Thoughts and opinions welcome.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from flynnibus:polished for the armor I think... or something exotic black
Like a gloss black with a purple and red pearl in it?
Ties into the cabinet purple and the red cape on the woman but not too far outside of the factory.
I had mine done in chrome. I was going for a shinier version of the all-stainless look that is on the PM flyer. I think because your cabinet is so beautiful that tidying up the crinkle powder coat will be fine. Will a gloss lockbar scratch? What colour is the coin door?
8CF6006F-110C-445E-884D-7722BEFAAFA4 (resized).jpegD82905B9-EC4E-4BFB-9277-8060FA2EA93B (resized).jpegE3F180A9-0A00-478B-B092-442CEEFFF4EF (resized).jpegQuoted from lb1:The dark red from the playfield in semi-gloss?
Thinking about a red/purple pearl based black.
Looks black at face value until the light hits it certain ways.
Experimenting now with colors for both it and the TZ I am doing.
They won’t be the same but the process is so I am catching that stuff today.
Don't suppose the owner of this machine would consider selling...... So love this game and the direction it is heading is sure perfection. Had to ask you never know as they say. Would love to have this in my little collection.
Quoted from Yelobird:Don't suppose the owner of this machine would consider selling...... So love this game and the direction it is heading is sure perfection. Had to ask you never know as they say. Would love to have this in my little collection.
Do you think the owner of that HEP TZ would be willing to sell?
Quoted from Vyzer2:Do you think the owner of that HEP TZ would be willing to sell?
Understood but had to ask. For the record not everyone restores pins for the same reason. I have seen HEP games turn over in the past and just thought I would ask. Somewhat drawn to this title as one I have never owned. Tough game to find in amazing condition.
I want to use the new style reinforced leg plates. image (resized).jpg
No problem that I can see in the front. image (resized).jpg
The rear is a little different. It will not allow the plate to go down far enough to align the holes.
image (resized).jpg
I will just cut notches out of the plates as marked.
image (resized).jpgnot trying to criticize.......just my opinion........but wouldn't it look better to notch out the wood bottom corner brace
Quoted from zerbam:but wouldn't it look better to notch out the wood bottom corner brace
Cabinets done. Don't want to mess it up. And could weaken the wood structure of the cabinet.
Two screw holes missing from those leg plates won't weaken anything.
LTG : )
Quoted from zerbam:not trying to criticize.......just my opinion........but wouldn't it look better to notch out the wood bottom corner brace
I don’t think so. Why permanently butcher the cabinet up in the name of a leg plate?
A simple cut to the plate makes more sense in this case and it is cleaner than trying to cut away the 45 in the floor which would scratch the paint up.
Leg plates for the rear location cut.
356E406B-74F7-436C-879B-B46C3CEB9CE8 (resized).jpeg
Plates checked for clearance.
A09A98E8-3E52-4692-8429-2A14B4656128 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg
Quoted from zerbam:always follow along with your restores.....and past restores on your site.......just was wondering?
No problem I hope the explanation and pictures helped verify why I felt it was the best choice.
Definitely quicker if nothing else.
It needs a new speaker.
The factory is an 8 inch 4 ohm. image (resized).jpg
I will replace it with the same.
image (resized).jpg
I want to turn/Mount the speaker like this image (resized).jpg
That is for two reasons.
First I want the label straight.
Second is that I can then secure the wires along the inner back wall of the divider blocking.
image (resized).jpg
To do that I will need an extension
This will be color correct.
image (resized).jpg
When soldering I place something between the terminals and the housing so I don’t risk dropping solder down into the cone and ruining the speaker/burning a hole in it. image (resized).jpg
I slip some tubing over the terminals on this one since it might run close once turned to other wiring.
image (resized).jpg
Then strain relief is made by crossing and tying. This will also insure that the tubing stays in place.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe trim has set a good while and I see where the grainy texture has settled back in.
image (resized).jpg
Original trim is textured and I was thinking about sticking with that but with the glossy finish it just doesn’t look how I want it to. image (resized).jpg
Also with the gloss I can now spot a slight depression in the rails probably from the head.Light reflections near my thumb highlight that.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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