(Topic ID: 166226)
Linked Games
Medusa
Bally, 1981
Topic Gallery
Matthews, NC
And where is the HEP yard sale of all the parts you've removed from games and replaced with perfect new hardware? 
Wellesley, ON
Quoted from Mitch:I'm assuming they get tossed unless the customer asks for them back?
Some of them, there is probably enough left to put the old game back together and ship it back with the restored one.
The old one gets sold. Sent to Chris to get restored, and the whole process starts over.
LTG : )
Moe
Quoted from Plumonium:Hey Chris, I realize that your playfield hinges and hardware on the tilt board are not grounded through your braid, what is the rule for that?
The tilt board does not technically ground it just passes behind the wooden panel.
The playfield hinges can be grounded once everything is closer to being in place.I leave it towards the end to determine so I can better map it in conjunction with how and where the playfield hinges once in place .
The rule for me is not set in stone it can vary by build.The hinges specifically and many other grounds at times are more about simply making sure any metal that could potentially(even when extremely unlikely)come in contact with a power source are covered.It completely makes sense from that past manufacturing and safety perspective but less of an issue in this situation since there is much more attention paid during the building process and wire mapping. Point being if a ground is deemed not truly needed then a precaution is made to insure it can't happen naturally.Any effort to short would have to be made intentionally.
Quoted from Skypilot:Chris,
With all the restorations that you do,which ones do you find to be more of a challenge.
These Bally SS games and the Gottlieb system 80s are the worst IMO.
They don't have to be this tough but I think if you don't put the extra effort into it (swapping the socket etc) then I just comes back to haunt you anyway on the backside.
Chris the transparent targets atop the playfield were two round green ones on each side and a square red one in the middle. The red square is specific as this target you're to avoid hitting (most of the time) as it decreases the bonus. Not sure you were aware or if the 3 green??? squared targets just suited you better! Machine looks great.....want mine next ?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:These Bally SS games and the Gottlieb system 80s are the worst IMO.
They don't have to be this tough but I think if you don't put the extra effort into it (swapping the socket etc) then I just comes back to haunt you anyway on the backside.
Did you try anything creative trying to boost the lit flipper effects? That would be an area that could take some improvements and you seem to be full of magic 
Quoted from Arcane:You did put LEDs in the light ladder at the top of the playfield. Do you like it better than the original bulbs?
I prefer the bulbs on my Medusa and find the LEDs to just give a small dot of red light.
Yves
Yes I liked these better but they are the Comet comfort bulb with the frosted dome.
I did use normal bulbs in the back box behind the glass because I just couldn't get the warmth in lighting I was looking for there.
Quoted from meSz:Chris the transparent targets atop the playfield were two round green ones on each side and a square red one in the middle. The red square is specific as this target you're to avoid hitting (most of the time) as it decreases the bonus. Not sure you were aware or if the 3 green??? squared targets just suited you better! Machine looks great.....want mine next ?
I was not aware so thanks for the info I will change it around.
Game came in with 3 round opaque targets there and under them were 3 green transparent nubs so I was guessing but I have lots of clear and red transparent faces in both round and square.
1 week later
Bally letters done. Those were tough.
I still need to do all the burgundy really tight but I have to clear this first to level and protect.
Aprons like this are almost like miniature playfields.
Shooter cover got a similar treatment. I am trying to do something with nothing essentially since we can't get the good apron decals (pinball rescue) anymore.
The very light pale grey just didn't work well at a glance when placed with the other changes.
1476141465425898422430 (resized).jpg
Quoted from j_m_:nice touch chris
Thanks before I go all out finishing the apron in the next couple days I am placing it to make sure I like it.
Should work well.Tough game to get a consistent color scheme going.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I was not aware so thanks for the info I will change it around.
Game came in with 3 round opaque targets there and under them were 3 green transparent nubs so I was guessing but I have lots of clear and red transparent faces in both round and square.
Any ideas on where to buy the correct targets?
Quoted from Pinballer73:Any ideas on where to buy the correct targets?
I would pay for a daily blog of HEP update photos and tip/techniques... I love these threads that much
Quoted from flynnibus:I would pay for a daily blog of HEP update photos and tip/techniques... I love these threads that much
Coming soon
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Coming soon
Did I mention it would be $0.99/month? hehehe
Look forward to what you come up with.
Quoted from xeneize:+1 for the pay to play HEP blog! This Medusa is GORGEOUS (like all his other work)!
I'd bet many would pay for a live feed of Chris' workshop.
Quoted from lb1:I'd bet many would pay for a live feed of Chris' workshop.
I've offered to move Chris next door many times and he won't go for it. I would work for him in a heartbeat. I was able to visit a couple years ago but no work was done. Might have been nothing but a beer or two and shop talk. Notice I said might have been. 
Going to wrap up this apron repaint today/tonight.
I bounce back and forth between the Medusa and TAF right now because while it is two games it is one order.
First goal was to get this Medusa 90% done ,then catch the TAF up in the background now head both for the finish line.
With the gold protected and a solid foundation of clear in place I can do the burgundy again but much tighter and more precise. I will also catch the little nicks in the yellow.
No question these are tough because the details can almost be too small to touch or cut out with the paint process.
14763074646441811914669 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I've offered to move Chris next door many times and he won't go for it. I would work for him in a heartbeat. I was able to visit a couple years ago but no work was done. Might have been nothing but a beer or two and shop talk. Notice I said might have been.
You are always welcome here Bryan.The wages are low but the Beer ABV is high.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Going to wrap up this apron repaint today/tonight.
I bounce back and forth between the Medusa and TAF right now because while it is two games it is one order.
First goal was to get this Medusa 90% done ,then catch the TAF up in the background now head both for the finish line.
With the gold protected and a solid foundation of clear in place I can do the burgundy again but much tighter and more precise. I will also catch the little nicks in the yellow.
No question these are tough because the details can almost be too small to touch or cut out with the paint process.
Why not the decal route when it comes to the apron? At least the text.. if we can bury decal edge on a PF, can you not the same on the apron easily? Or source out a silk screen?
You just seem to have to put so much effort into this and it sounds like its still a compromise relative to what you'd like it to be.
(just curious if you've gone down those routes and punted, or why you are here...)
Quoted from flynnibus:Why not the decal route when it comes to the apron? At least the text.. if we can bury decal edge on a PF, can you not the same on the apron easily? Or source out a silk screen?
You just seem to have to put so much effort into this and it sounds like its still a compromise relative to what you'd like it to be.
(just curious if you've gone down those routes and punted, or why you are here...)
This won't be a compromise in terms of quality it will far exceeded a decal and it is far more practical since I can do it right here and now. The comprises are much more about the time it took to make it happen.
A decal would have been way faster and easier so it is easily my prefrence when readily available but it will be hard not to appreciate the use the exact same paint and clear on everything once completed.
I don't print decals or have screens made because it just isn't what makes sense here on one off restorations.I have masking film,a razor blade,a steady hand,and a good eye
Meant to add yes I have been down all those roads and back.
If I told someone to make a decal based on my vision and I don't like it once in place it is waste.If I paint something and I don't like it I just keep trying until I do.
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