This is a New out of box Black Knight

The owner was very specific about what he wants to do with it.

He wants to add protection to it and preserve it as close to its current state as possible.
He wants it to look authentic but not suffer from things like fragile playfield and cabinet coatings.

Seemed simple enough when I took it in.
Just break it down clear it and reassemble. Maybe deal with a little tarnished metal but once I broke it down I realized it was going to be much more involved than that.

I know how to make it look better than new but I also know that is not what we are after on this and so we begin.

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I keep telling myself
You can do it
You can do it.

I tore it down Wednesday and in a few minutes I will get this up to speed.
I don't farm out much or most often none of the process so depending on the needs of the game the only delays or limitations are based solely on myself or the chemical process.

Games is evaluated and ready to gut.
In no particular order there are rough spots here or there all are from the standards of the factory at the time
Rough splintered wood painted over on the face joining staples poked well out on the head not fully seated.

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The metal while new is not really finessed in terms of grain direction.
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Inside is rough around the edges but very cool to see all the original tags and such. IMG_2155 (resized).JPGIMG_2147 (resized).JPGIMG_2151 (resized).JPG

Game is being torn down I want to salvage all tags and true important details of what makes this game something special today some 37 years after it was made.
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I know this is a true NOB game and time capsule but I cannot help but start noticing flaws as I start to study it a bit. None are from use or mishandling. All seem to stem from manufacturing standards at the time or just natural aging.
Insert borders raised or sunk are what I notice at a glance once the glass is off. IMG_2143 (resized).JPG

When glancing at the lamp panel in the back box with the glass removed there I spot a bracket that was "made to fit" and these do not bend easily.
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Now tearing down is about complete.
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Breakdown is complete.
The one thing I chose not to completely gut was the head because there were some small tags I did not want to damage and the way it is stapled tin would make removal too obvious and I really need to keep this as authentic looking as possible just nicer and well protected.
The head lower cab
Playfield upper and lower are ready to prep for repair enhancement or whatever the case may be.

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The playfield makes me nervous.
There is a large and small Mylar section and some flaking from disassembly and age.

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Mylar was removed with minimal damage. Sometimes on these older games no matter the technique used there is a risk involved because the materials have been bonded together so long.
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Playfield wise all the inserts are raise or comprised some way or another.
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At this point I need to remove and reglue as well as reset all inserts.

I like to get them all loose but keep them either in the place they go or right next to it until I am ready to glue.

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The inserts were slowly removed by scoring around them internally with a dental pick and gently pushing them out with a paint paddle. These did not require much force or heat .I try to avoid the use of either if possible .
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I use a easily sourced 5 minute epoxy.
This gives a good bond and reasonable work time. It is also compatible with the paints and clears I use.
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I do the inserts in small lots and regulate that by mixing in a throw away plastic spoon applying the epoxy to the inserts with a small throw away touch up brush.
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Inserts are being set. IMG_2321 (resized).JPG

All inserts are glued and leveled.
The playfield is being prepped to clear this means scuffing and smoothing the shooter Lane. It runs the entire length of the playfield.

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Playfields are ready to clear for the first time.
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After cleaning and tacking off a coat of a clear adhesion promoter is applied for the best bonding possible.
It also acts as a milder interface on playfields where clear first applied could be more volatile to the surface. This coating is like water and has no real build at all but does provide a slight sheen.
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Some minor touch ups were made in spots where the parts were like the inlane screw locations then the Playfield set is cleared.
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Not much effort is made in this initial application to get a super slick finish or bury any/all insert gaps.
It is more put in place to get the process started.
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Now onto the cabinet.

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Cabinet is being prepped for paint and clear.
First things first I need to make the following known so it will make sense why I am doing this or not doing that.
The owner wants the cabinet to maintain its same general appearance but cleaned up a bit in terms of some of the rougher construction or material issues.
That means fixing the various things like the staple popping out in the head the rough wood used on the lower trim of the face and some various staple marks on the back of the lower and top of the head and perhaps a one or two of the more severe expansion like cracks in the wood.

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Another thing that the owner wants to maintain is the military like stenciling including the softer edges and overspray.

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Repairs are completed including gluing and clamping some loose plus on the neck.

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I wouldn't say these are issues for the time period it was built and its intended use as well as price point at that time.
The difference is how we look at these games today and the price point. It creates a different expectation in a different market and world.
If Williams were marketing these games to collectors at a much higher price tag it would be more relevant to compare but it was made to throw between other games and eat quarters.A scratch ,some wood grain or staple let alone a bent hinge behind the glass wouldn't impact that.

Yes. The clear used is that but at this point it is already aged so it just will not further yellow.
Have not decided yet if I will repaint the yellowed areas that are possible to paint.
These would mostly be covered by plastics once assembled but it really does help brighten the package back up.

Since I do not want it to truly eliminate the wood grain in the cabinet I will proceed with painting right over the repairs and rest of the cabinet instead of priming and sanding first.
Priming and sanding first would better smooth it but that is not what would maintain the authentic look as well as possible and this is a different type of job.
The cabinet is scuffed and sprayed with adhesion promoter.
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It is then very loosely masked to preserve the soft stencil edges and overspray. IMG_2393 (resized).JPGIMG_2392 (resized).JPG

The biggest problem I face right now is regardless of how well I do this black isn't always black nor is white always white.
It just doesn't work that way so my black will be a bit more true than the factory black because the factory black is older and also well absorbed into the wood at this point. Also on the areas not masked I am doubling the black where as the areas that are masked are single layered and aged.
What that means is that from inches away that might show up here or there and that is why it would be better to mask edge to edge and do it all but we must comprise here to maintain those soft edges and overspray patterns.

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Cabinet now unmasked.
Then matte cleared
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Matte clear goes on glossy but dries a bit less so. It can be dialed up or down in gloss level.
Here is what it looks like fully cured. Of course this is s brick of it so it is super cloudy but gives an idea that it isn't just clear. IMG_2437 (resized).JPG

I am originally from Richmond VA and I have a love for the early D.C. punk days so you were close.
I have rediscovered Avail this week and always looking for something new or something I forgot about.
New is getting really tough the older I get.

No I will not replace the sockets or switches on this one unless there is an issue. It has a lot of grouped sockets on a continuous bar like assembly so that makes it less ideal to do.

Switches can easily be straightened polished gapped and contacts cleaned.
I will make sure to detail that for you when it comes up.

Cabinet is now fully dry.
Grain and most imperfections are still present by design.
Gloss level is on par with what it was originally.

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Playfield set is now being sanded as level as possible and I will be working towards filling the insert gaps and getting a good level before I repaint the insert borders

The only inserts I am concerned about sanding through on would be the ones with actual art or text. The others that just have black borders alone are more easily repainted when and where needed.

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Now I can start working the gaps.
No amount of clear can fill some of these without several applications so I will handle it a different way.
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The inserts are surface wiped with filler then while the filler is somewhat but not fully hardened it is skillfully and carefully shaved down with a razor blade
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Since the inserts themselves are not perfectly flat the next step is wiping the excess out of areas that are too low with a lightly dampened lacquer thinnner towel. Towel only not paper.
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Because of the previous clear application I can carefully do that without damaging the surface but it has to happen quickly and in the correct window for the materials
Waiting too long the filler is too hard. Going over the same areas repeatedly there is a risk of softening the clear do it is something I can do and sense but not fully explain.
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That process is now complete and was done in a way where only black work will be required.
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Playfield set is cleaned again after a light resanding to shore it up from the filler wipe.
The various deepest void are successfully filled. There will be minor cracks and missed spots still at this stage but the type of gaps that endless absorb and eat clear should be gone.
At this point I will do some rough basic black touch ups by hand and clear again.

Not quite ready to do the real detail work in terms of repaints yet because the inserts really need to be smooth and solid prior to that and this next coat of clear should help get there.

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Black touch ups are being roughed in.

The lower portion of the main is done it is a bit tedious.

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Black is roughed in on the insert borders and the playfields are ready to clear
Might look a little rough still right now but at this point I am still better off to under do it than to overdo it.
When it is time to really address the cosmetics and insert borders I will do so on my light box.

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Playfield set cleared inserts much more level and sealed.
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There is one lone trouble spot and all things considered I am happy to have shrunk that down to just this single one moving forward. Should be easily handled from this point.
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The one insert is overfilled with clear at this stage to help close and finish leveling it.

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Playfield set has dried overnight and I can better sense what is going to be needed to finish sealing up the insert borders
From what I can see all will close up once sanded with the exception of two.

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While the window of cure is still open I can drop some clear in the two inserts that have developed gaps now that the materials are settling.
The first is not a surprise.
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The second is very minor.
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A small amount of clear is mixed and dropped in the voids.

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Playfield set has had plenty of time to settle and I am ready to sand then start perfecting the insert borders.

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I machine sand pretty much everything because it provides a finer pattern than can be done manually. image (resized).jpg

What do I want?
I want the insert on the right to look like the one on the left then I know it is perfectly flush and ready to paint.
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Remember this guy?
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It is now in good order
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All inserts on both the lower and upper playfields are level so I can finish scuffing them up.

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Playfields are cleaned and can now be checked on my homemade light box.

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Without the light box the insert borders look great and you would easily think it is ready to clear for the final time.
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Once on the light box it tells a different story. My light box is super bright because in the past we didn't have LEDs and once that trend started it made the need to really thoroughly light and check insert borders necessary.
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Tools required
Speader to smooth stenciling material
Razor blade.
Don't bother asking what material I am using is. It is nothing special just a matte like version of frisket that can stand autobase.
Often I do not specify certain products or processes not because they are "secrets" just more because they rarely can be applied to most DIY projects without certain equipment,access or underlying skill sets. When that is the case it usually just leads to more questions than answers.

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The first group is cut out.
This involves a looser cut out on some inserts since the borders extend well into the art.
In those cases I treat it like I did with the cabinet repaint and leave large opening for a gradual blow over fade in so it melts in there without hard lines.
These do not need to be perfect tracings or cuts in these areas it will mostly be dependent on the spraying technique

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Upper masked. Much broader masking is required on that because of how the black in the art flows from certain inserts well into the surrounding areas.

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Areas masked are blacked out.
It is actually a super dark gray or muted black for this so it looks more correct and flows into the original areas that were not exactly straight black either.

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Before unmasking repaints are double checked on the light box.

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I can now start unmasking.

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Main playfield unmasked. image (resized).jpg

Pretty happy with the borders all things considered I just did not expect to need to put this much effort into this particular game. image (resized).jpg

When you mask cut and spray this many inserts there will be an occasional blow throw or imperfect cut. image (resized).jpg

I am able to easily catch that now and reshape it through some artistic scraping with a razor blade
If not caught prior to clear it is there for good for the most part. image (resized).jpg
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I will check each insert and make these type of corrections where needed.

All inserts look correct now.
Not perfect by design but correct which means there are minor variations in registration and shapes similar to what they looked like before they had to be removed. I feel like that is important on this restore given the owners request.
I am trying to highlight the same exact inserts used as previous examples.

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Ready to clear for the final time I hope.

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Final clear freshly applied.

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Cabinet parts were tumbled and the cabinet is back at the other shop for reassembly.

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New rails are being placed. Slight change to the flipper button colors I think the red and yellow makes more sense.

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Yes the original rails were really bent up at the nail locations.
They just did not use much care installing them.

The parts vary but there is a solution added to the media and many parts are also then hand polished with Flitz metal polish which offers added protection after they come out of the tumbler..

I think the best method starts at the removal of the rail
I use a heat gun and putty knife coming from the top of the rail not the bottom and I slowly heat and pry watching in between the rail and cabinet to insure the tape is coming off with the rail.Iif it is not then it likely needs a bit more heat and time.
Once that is done I clean the remaining glue residue off with adhesive remover.

On this game though the rails were only nailed on.

Playfield set is now ready to final sand and polish.

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This process will remove any minor surface imperfections like clear settlement into inserts borders,minor grain and small specks of dust in the final clear.

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First is to machine sand with 1000 grit.
If you want to truly level and flatten not round imperfections you have to start aggressively.

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Now I move to 1200 grit.

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Now 1500 version one which is one type of paper on the hard pad but will sand in the opposite direction.

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Finally 1500 version two in opposite direction. This being a finer version of the same grit if that makes sense. Maybe a refined version of it is a better description. Now in use with a soft interface pad to give a little more finesse.

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Sanding is complete.
No insert rings showing nor imperfections. The insert rings are a moving target the heat from polishing alone can cause them to faintly reappear so I don't want to get to lost in that detail but throughout this process every effort has been made to correct and avoid them regardless of the outcome.
Polishing is next and is never done in the same room as painting.

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Ready to polish.

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Polishing of main complete inserts are nice and level. Minor hair lines around the inserts right now from buffing heat. Should settle back down as it cools off over the next few minutes. .

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Upper is next.
It is screwed down to secure it during the polishing process since it does not have the footprint or stability at this point a regular size playfield would.
This is done where the screws would be below the surface in the jet bumper mount.

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Upper polished.

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This dewalt buffer.

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Depends on what look I want but for this project. Wool pad and this compound only.

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Playfield inserts have settled in from buffing.
Only faint hairlines now which is reasonable considering the starting point,work required and timeframe.

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Playfield is back with the cabinet and all parts are prepped for reassembly which will resume next week when I return from vacation.

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Cabinet rebuild is wrapping up.
Had a bit of a break from this project with vacation and other projects to finish.

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I had kind of the same thought at first when it came in.
Truth be told I could build a much nicer game without the limitations placed on this project but the owner wants to protect the game so this was done as a method of preservation.
After tearing it down and seeing the condition of the inserts I think it was a smarter move than I initially thought.
As a time capsule it should remain as it was. To be used and enjoyed it is better off now.

Cabinet rebuild complete.

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Now assembling the playfield set starting with the main.

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Building the underside. Since the game was basically still new I used the slide everything off then back on method for the wiring.
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That said I am at this point tearing each mech down as it is time to place it and manually polishing all the tarnish off the metal as well as possible.
Here is a slingshot bracket for an example. image (resized).jpg
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Without replating it isn't truly possible to remove every bit of pitting but this gets the majority gives some shine and protection without taking it over the top.

Underside of the main playfield is done.

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Main playfield is now placed in the cabinet.

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Building the upper now.

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Thanks.
It is powered up for a few test prior to finishing the topside up.

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Glad to put something I am doing anyway to good use and even happier to hear it is a source of inspiration for others.

The Black Knight is just about ready to ride again and test out his new suit of armor.
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I have another one here to do but it isn't NOB so that will be a much different style restore.
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That will have to wait a bit though because my next job at this particular shop will be the proto Whirlwind that has been patiently waiting in the corner.
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