Black Knight
Williams, 1980Chris,
A couple of questions:
Will you replace bulb sockets?
What about switches. You probably don't need to replace on this machine, but what do you do on a machine that has been out in the world? Is there a way to straighten and refresh the old switches.
Tia,
Bob
Quoted from Pinzap:Were any of these games made with collectors in mind back in the day? Or were they all made solely to route and make someone money?
They made 600 Black Knight LEs back in 1981
But I don't remember delivering any of them to homeowners.
Generally games would go to Professional Athletes or Musicians, but not too many went to collectors. It just was not a very large hobby back then.
Quoted from Gryszzz:You make it look so easy, but nobody else's work looks like this. Amazing.
Shirley I can't be the only one wondering what yer listenin to while you work?
My guess on this one--Bad Brains.
I am originally from Richmond VA and I have a love for the early D.C. punk days so you were close.
I have rediscovered Avail this week and always looking for something new or something I forgot about.
New is getting really tough the older I get.
Quoted from BobLangelius:Chris,
A couple of questions:
Will you replace bulb sockets?
What about switches. You probably don't need to replace on this machine, but what do you do on a machine that has been out in the world? Is there a way to straighten and refresh the old switches.
Tia,
Bob
No I will not replace the sockets or switches on this one unless there is an issue. It has a lot of grouped sockets on a continuous bar like assembly so that makes it less ideal to do.
Switches can easily be straightened polished gapped and contacts cleaned.
I will make sure to detail that for you when it comes up.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:All inserts are glued and leveled.
Can you elaborate on your method for leveling them?
Great work - very interesting to follow. Thanks for taking the time to share your process. I noticed you used a clear adhesion promoter first on both the playfield and the cabinet. Was it the same product for both? What do you use?
Playfield set is now being sanded as level as possible and I will be working towards filling the insert gaps and getting a good level before I repaint the insert borders
The only inserts I am concerned about sanding through on would be the ones with actual art or text. The others that just have black borders alone are more easily repainted when and where needed.
Now I can start working the gaps.
No amount of clear can fill some of these without several applications so I will handle it a different way.
IMG_2448 (resized).JPG
The inserts are surface wiped with filler then while the filler is somewhat but not fully hardened it is skillfully and carefully shaved down with a razor blade
IMG_2450 (resized).JPG
Since the inserts themselves are not perfectly flat the next step is wiping the excess out of areas that are too low with a lightly dampened lacquer thinnner towel. Towel only not paper.
image (resized).jpg
Because of the previous clear application I can carefully do that without damaging the surface but it has to happen quickly and in the correct window for the materials
Waiting too long the filler is too hard. Going over the same areas repeatedly there is a risk of softening the clear do it is something I can do and sense but not fully explain.
IMG_2455 (resized).JPGIMG_2457 (resized).JPG
Playfield set is cleaned again after a light resanding to shore it up from the filler wipe.
The various deepest void are successfully filled. There will be minor cracks and missed spots still at this stage but the type of gaps that endless absorb and eat clear should be gone.
At this point I will do some rough basic black touch ups by hand and clear again.
Not quite ready to do the real detail work in terms of repaints yet because the inserts really need to be smooth and solid prior to that and this next coat of clear should help get there.
Black is roughed in on the insert borders and the playfields are ready to clear
Might look a little rough still right now but at this point I am still better off to under do it than to overdo it.
When it is time to really address the cosmetics and insert borders I will do so on my light box.
Playfield set cleared inserts much more level and sealed.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
There is one lone trouble spot and all things considered I am happy to have shrunk that down to just this single one moving forward. Should be easily handled from this point.
image (resized).jpg
I machine sand pretty much everything because it provides a finer pattern than can be done manually. image (resized).jpg
What do I want?
I want the insert on the right to look like the one on the left then I know it is perfectly flush and ready to paint.
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Playfields are cleaned and can now be checked on my homemade light box.
Do you plug yours in or save energy like Stern does it? 
Just kidding. Laughing every time I have seen that Stern video.
Without the light box the insert borders look great and you would easily think it is ready to clear for the final time.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Once on the light box it tells a different story. My light box is super bright because in the past we didn't have LEDs and once that trend started it made the need to really thoroughly light and check insert borders necessary.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Tools required
Speader to smooth stenciling material
Razor blade.
Don't bother asking what material I am using is. It is nothing special just a matte like version of frisket that can stand autobase.
Often I do not specify certain products or processes not because they are "secrets" just more because they rarely can be applied to most DIY projects without certain equipment,access or underlying skill sets. When that is the case it usually just leads to more questions than answers.
The first group is cut out.
This involves a looser cut out on some inserts since the borders extend well into the art.
In those cases I treat it like I did with the cabinet repaint and leave large opening for a gradual blow over fade in so it melts in there without hard lines.
These do not need to be perfect tracings or cuts in these areas it will mostly be dependent on the spraying technique
Thank you for posting all of this awesome work you do, man when I hit the lottery I plan on keeping you busy for a long time! What am I thinking your already busy, well I will get in line.
Main playfield unmasked. image (resized).jpg
Pretty happy with the borders all things considered I just did not expect to need to put this much effort into this particular game. image (resized).jpg
When you mask cut and spray this many inserts there will be an occasional blow throw or imperfect cut. image (resized).jpg
I am able to easily catch that now and reshape it through some artistic scraping with a razor blade
If not caught prior to clear it is there for good for the most part. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
I will check each insert and make these type of corrections where needed.
All inserts look correct now.
Not perfect by design but correct which means there are minor variations in registration and shapes similar to what they looked like before they had to be removed. I feel like that is important on this restore given the owners request.
I am trying to highlight the same exact inserts used as previous examples.
Quoted from zacaj:Was there something wrong with the original rails?
Yes the original rails were really bent up at the nail locations.
They just did not use much care installing them.
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Trumbull, CT
Sana'a
Moe
Biscarrosse