HEP Is Hired To Protect The Black Knight


By High_End_Pins

3 months ago


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  • Latest reply 1 month ago by Mike_J
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There are 147 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
22
#1 3 months ago

This is a New out of box Black Knight

The owner was very specific about what he wants to do with it.

He wants to add protection to it and preserve it as close to its current state as possible.
He wants it to look authentic but not suffer from things like fragile playfield and cabinet coatings.

Seemed simple enough when I took it in.
Just break it down clear it and reassemble. Maybe deal with a little tarnished metal but once I broke it down I realized it was going to be much more involved than that.

I know how to make it look better than new but I also know that is not what we are after on this and so we begin.

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#2 3 months ago

Great!!!!

#3 3 months ago

He's got the power

He's got the might

Get ready for battle

Protect the Black Knight

#4 3 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

He's got the power
He's got the might
Get ready for battle
Protect the Black Knight

I keep telling myself
You can do it
You can do it.

#5 3 months ago

Subscribed! Can't wait to see how this one turns out.

#6 3 months ago

How current are your posts Chris? Is this machine half done and now your starting a thread or are you just getting started now? Just curious as to how long these machines take from start to finish. I'm amazed by how fast you knock these machines out.

#7 3 months ago
Quoted from PanaPinResto:

How current are your posts Chris? Is this machine half done and now your starting a thread or are you just getting started now? Just curious as to how long these machines take from start to finish. I'm amazed by how fast you knock these machines out.

I tore it down Wednesday and in a few minutes I will get this up to speed.
I don't farm out much or most often none of the process so depending on the needs of the game the only delays or limitations are based solely on myself or the chemical process.

#8 3 months ago

Games is evaluated and ready to gut.
In no particular order there are rough spots here or there all are from the standards of the factory at the time
Rough splintered wood painted over on the face joining staples poked well out on the head not fully seated.

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The metal while new is not really finessed in terms of grain direction.
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Inside is rough around the edges but very cool to see all the original tags and such. IMG_2155 (resized).JPGIMG_2147 (resized).JPGIMG_2151 (resized).JPG

#9 3 months ago

Following with great interest......now for the real question: where has this NIB Black Knight been hiding and how was it found??

#10 3 months ago

Game is being torn down I want to salvage all tags and true important details of what makes this game something special today some 37 years after it was made.
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I know this is a true NOB game and time capsule but I cannot help but start noticing flaws as I start to study it a bit. None are from use or mishandling. All seem to stem from manufacturing standards at the time or just natural aging.
Insert borders raised or sunk are what I notice at a glance once the glass is off. IMG_2143 (resized).JPG

When glancing at the lamp panel in the back box with the glass removed there I spot a bracket that was "made to fit" and these do not bend easily.
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#11 3 months ago

Now tearing down is about complete.
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#12 3 months ago

Very interested in this type of restore. I have a low-play HUO Centaur that could use the same treatment.

CH says: "Gimme your money!"

#13 3 months ago

Breakdown is complete.
The one thing I chose not to completely gut was the head because there were some small tags I did not want to damage and the way it is stapled tin would make removal too obvious and I really need to keep this as authentic looking as possible just nicer and well protected.
The head lower cab
Playfield upper and lower are ready to prep for repair enhancement or whatever the case may be.

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#14 3 months ago

The playfield makes me nervous.
There is a large and small Mylar section and some flaking from disassembly and age.

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#15 3 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

This is a New out of box Black Knight

Out of a box, and the lockdown bar is all scuffed up, like that?

It does look really amazing.

#16 3 months ago

Cool to see where that operator's handbook is attached. I printed one for my game but wasn't sure exactly where it went. Could you please take a straight-on picture of the label on the back of the lamp board? I don't think I have seen that before and would like to reproduce it.

#17 3 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Following with great interest......now for the real question: where has this NIB Black Knight been hiding and how was it found??

There was one in Vancouver or was it Seattle, back more than 10 years ago.

#18 3 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I know this is a true NOB game and time capsule but I cannot help but start noticing flaws as I start to study it a bit. None are from use or mishandling. All seem to stem from manufacturing standards at the time or just natural aging.

Were any of these games made with collectors in mind back in the day? Or were they all made solely to route and make someone money?

#19 3 months ago
Quoted from Darcy:

Out of a box, and the lockdown bar is all scuffed up, like that?
It does look really amazing.

And white rubber rings? We all know how SR feels about that .

#20 3 months ago

I had a NIB Black Knight up to about a year ago and I traded it to a fellow pinsider from Calgary for a MMR + cash on my part. Maybe this is that game?

QSS

#21 3 months ago

Mylar was removed with minimal damage. Sometimes on these older games no matter the technique used there is a risk involved because the materials have been bonded together so long.
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Playfield wise all the inserts are raise or comprised some way or another.
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#22 3 months ago

At this point I need to remove and reglue as well as reset all inserts.

I like to get them all loose but keep them either in the place they go or right next to it until I am ready to glue.

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#23 3 months ago

The inserts were slowly removed by scoring around them internally with a dental pick and gently pushing them out with a paint paddle. These did not require much force or heat .I try to avoid the use of either if possible .
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I use a easily sourced 5 minute epoxy.
This gives a good bond and reasonable work time. It is also compatible with the paints and clears I use.
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I do the inserts in small lots and regulate that by mixing in a throw away plastic spoon applying the epoxy to the inserts with a small throw away touch up brush.
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Inserts are being set. IMG_2321 (resized).JPG

#24 3 months ago

All inserts are glued and leveled.
The playfield is being prepped to clear this means scuffing and smoothing the shooter Lane. It runs the entire length of the playfield.

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#25 3 months ago

Playfields are ready to clear for the first time.
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After cleaning and tacking off a coat of a clear adhesion promoter is applied for the best bonding possible.
It also acts as a milder interface on playfields where clear first applied could be more volatile to the surface. This coating is like water and has no real build at all but does provide a slight sheen.
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#26 3 months ago

Some minor touch ups were made in spots where the parts were like the inlane screw locations then the Playfield set is cleared.
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Not much effort is made in this initial application to get a super slick finish or bury any/all insert gaps.
It is more put in place to get the process started.
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#27 3 months ago

Now onto the cabinet.

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#28 3 months ago

Just incredible

#29 3 months ago

Yeah this is really cool to follow. Thanks for documenting as you go.

#30 3 months ago

Cabinet is being prepped for paint and clear.
First things first I need to make the following known so it will make sense why I am doing this or not doing that.
The owner wants the cabinet to maintain its same general appearance but cleaned up a bit in terms of some of the rougher construction or material issues.
That means fixing the various things like the staple popping out in the head the rough wood used on the lower trim of the face and some various staple marks on the back of the lower and top of the head and perhaps a one or two of the more severe expansion like cracks in the wood.

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#31 3 months ago

Another thing that the owner wants to maintain is the military like stenciling including the softer edges and overspray.

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#32 3 months ago

Repairs are completed including gluing and clamping some loose plus on the neck.

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#33 3 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

where has this NIB Black Knight been hiding and how was it found??

Read old posts on RGP. About six of them turned up along with a lot of other NIB video games. An amazing find.

LTG : )

#34 3 months ago
Quoted from Darcy:

Out of a box, and the lockdown bar is all scuffed up, like that?

Williams wasn't perfect. Not unusual to have problems with a game. They were made for commercial service.

LTG : )

#35 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Were any of these games made with collectors in mind back in the day? Or were they all made solely to route and make someone money?

To route. Collector, what's that ? This was 1981 and ops didn't want you playing at home.

LTG : )

#36 3 months ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

And white rubber rings?

Black rubber rings started about the time of AFM.

LTG : )

#37 3 months ago

Can a UV resistant clearcoat be used so the white on the playfield doesn't yellow with age ?

LTG : )

#38 3 months ago

Not to be the guy to address the elephant in the room, but, imagine if Stern shipped a game with a lockdown bar with scratches, their cabinets with hardware punching through, and brackets clumsily bent to fit.

People seem to look back at Williams with rose tinted nostalgia glasses, but when looking at the issues this NIB game has, it sorta makes ghosting playfield inserts seem trifling.

These were built to be abused.

#39 3 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

These were built to be abused.

Fortunately Williams did that for you. I never uncrated a Williams pin that I didn't spend at least two or three days tweaking stuff. And often had things broken, missing, etc. etc.

LTG : )

#40 3 months ago

I wouldn't say these are issues for the time period it was built and its intended use as well as price point at that time.
The difference is how we look at these games today and the price point. It creates a different expectation in a different market and world.
If Williams were marketing these games to collectors at a much higher price tag it would be more relevant to compare but it was made to throw between other games and eat quarters.A scratch ,some wood grain or staple let alone a bent hinge behind the glass wouldn't impact that.

#41 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Can a UV resistant clearcoat be used so the white on the playfield doesn't yellow with age ?
LTG : )

Yes. The clear used is that but at this point it is already aged so it just will not further yellow.
Have not decided yet if I will repaint the yellowed areas that are possible to paint.
These would mostly be covered by plastics once assembled but it really does help brighten the package back up.

#42 3 months ago

Since I do not want it to truly eliminate the wood grain in the cabinet I will proceed with painting right over the repairs and rest of the cabinet instead of priming and sanding first.
Priming and sanding first would better smooth it but that is not what would maintain the authentic look as well as possible and this is a different type of job.
The cabinet is scuffed and sprayed with adhesion promoter.
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It is then very loosely masked to preserve the soft stencil edges and overspray. IMG_2393 (resized).JPGIMG_2392 (resized).JPG

#43 3 months ago

The biggest problem I face right now is regardless of how well I do this black isn't always black nor is white always white.
It just doesn't work that way so my black will be a bit more true than the factory black because the factory black is older and also well absorbed into the wood at this point. Also on the areas not masked I am doubling the black where as the areas that are masked are single layered and aged.
What that means is that from inches away that might show up here or there and that is why it would be better to mask edge to edge and do it all but we must comprise here to maintain those soft edges and overspray patterns.

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#44 3 months ago

Cabinet now unmasked.
Then matte cleared
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Matte clear goes on glossy but dries a bit less so. It can be dialed up or down in gloss level.
Here is what it looks like fully cured. Of course this is s brick of it so it is super cloudy but gives an idea that it isn't just clear. IMG_2437 (resized).JPG

#45 3 months ago

You make it look so easy, but nobody else's work looks like this. Amazing.
Shirley I can't be the only one wondering what yer listenin to while you work?
My guess on this one--Bad Brains.

#46 3 months ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

You make it look so easy, but nobody else's work looks like this. Amazing.
Shirley I can't be the only one wondering what yer listenin to while you work?
My guess on this one--Bad Brains.

Don't call him Shirley.

#47 3 months ago
Quoted from jayhawkai:

Don't call him Shirley.

I just want to wish you both good luck.

#48 3 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

He's got the power
He's got the might
Get ready for battle
Protect the Black Knight

Give HEP your money!

#49 3 months ago

This will be amazing when you are done! Love your threads, keep them coming.

I contemplated a NIB BK a couple of years ago but after seeing this thread, I'm glad I bought a 'restored' one instead.

#50 3 months ago

Thanks for taking the time to document this process, we appreciate it...

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