New glass.
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Frame and rails were regrained. It was tedious but really the only option.
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Other parts of the frame were nickel plated.
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The seals were soaked in bleach and washed. They are yellowed from age but should be hidden once in place.
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love these threads!
How the heck are you able to mask off so close and change the background color on an apron?
so impressed!
Quoted from Whysnow:love these threads!
How the heck are you able to mask off so close and change the background color on an apron?
so impressed!
Thanks. No secrets. This is how I do it.
So tell me the clear flipper buttons light up green, right?
Something I have been thinking of doing to mine.
Quoted from orangestorm87:So tell me the clear flipper buttons light up green, right?
Something I have been thinking of doing to mine.
No that could easily be done though but I honestly just picked those because they worked well with the scheme.
Same thing with this newer generation shooter rod.
Once placed it just looked right to me.
I kind of like subtle changes too that can be easy tweaked later if desired.
Both games look really good. Thanks for taking the time to make these threads, I really enjoy seeing your process.
Quoted from Whysnow:love these threads!
How the heck are you able to mask off so close and change the background color on an apron?
so impressed!
I was wondering the same thing. Especially the lettering. But I see now. Nice job.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks. No secrets. This is how I do it.
so just frisket and a blade?
Quoted from Whysnow:so just frisket and a blade?
I like masking tape because it sticks better and holds up to automotive paints and clears but you can see through frisket and that does seem to work okay with latex or oil based paints.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Thanks. No secrets. This is how I do it.
Yeah. It is amazing work. I can see masking the black and making the color change. But how do you work around all of the pica type sized red lettering? Tell me that's a decal. Yes? No?
Just a tag on EM repair tips.
Certainly not new to high end experienced restorers.
Normally, if restorers have problems with non reproduced panel doors either to lack of availability or changes due to cabinet shrinkage or small age changes which happens frequently even with cabinet rebuilds, I just take the dimensions to a HVAC duct shop. The panel is $40 new.
In this case, I am still working on the cabinet anyway for touchup.
It is closer to original than making one out of plywood which many do out of simplicity, and shops can produce the correct factory metal mil thicknesses and dimensions that are identical to original manufacturers and you do not have to have a rusty piece of garbage that you have to soak in Evapo-Rust.
Replace the lock and hinge.
Be mindful of the dry condition of the wood, as even properly fitting doors can cause cracking, even if correctly dimensioned.
As noted in the Fire post.
HEP gallery is coming back to life
Here is the much delayed and still not fully organized 4MBC album
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album688
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