(Topic ID: 173984)

HEP Four Million BC restore


By High_End_Pins

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 332 posts
  • 67 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 68 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 363 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #33 Tip where Chris opens up the leg bolt holes and bevels Posted by High_End_Pins (2 years ago)

Post #43 Description of a 'Guide Coat' used in prep'ing surfaces Posted by RobertWinter (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

There are 332 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 7.
22
#1 2 years ago

Starting out just gutting the game for the parts I need to get in order first and foremost.
That will be the cabinet and playfield.
I wont say too much about conditions at this point because it will be better to focus on that when I am restoring the actual part itself.

20161120_115645 (resized).jpg
20161120_115649 (resized).jpg
20161120_125631 (resized).jpg
20161120_125636(0) (resized).jpg

#2 2 years ago

Gutting and removing head.Will save all tags by carefully removing them.

20161120_131557 (resized).jpg

20161120_131825 (resized).jpg

#3 2 years ago

I wish I could talk to the artist that thought "hey, lets make the plastics look like burlap. Nothing says dinosaurs and cavemen like burlap."

#4 2 years ago

Head gutted and removed.
I will strip this first then move to the next thing.
The idea is to keep pace a bit as I go so it doesn't overwhelm me as a syand alone project since I have others also brewing.

14796691459591295190787 (resized).jpg

#5 2 years ago

Oh boy, that's going to be some fun work right there.

#6 2 years ago

Cautiously stripping the head since there may be lead paint involved.

1479671969288-1232140729 (resized).jpg

#7 2 years ago

Head stripped.

1479673673071-453491350 (resized).jpg

1479673693012-1083794961 (resized).jpg

#8 2 years ago

I will skim coat all surfaces of the head focusing on one side at a time.

1479674363271-879640569 (resized).jpg

#9 2 years ago

Lightly level surface
Now guide coat.
Now block.

147967497561763013166 (resized).jpg

1479675162576-435953564 (resized).jpg

14796751779661507222243 (resized).jpg

#10 2 years ago

Ready for the next side. Same,process.

1479675394358-822015036 (resized).jpg

#11 2 years ago

What does "cautiously" removing the head paint mean? Are there extra precautions you use to keep possible lead dust down? (Or dies festool virtually eliminate all dust?)

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

What does "cautiously" removing the head paint mean? Are there extra precautions you use to keep possible lead dust down? (Or dies festool virtually eliminate all dust?)

Long sleeves,long pants rubber gloves,dust mask and yes the Festool definitely helps.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_S:

I wish I could talk to the artist that thought "hey, lets make the plastics look like burlap. Nothing says dinosaurs and cavemen like burlap."

Dinosaurs with Cavemen?...back in 4 MBC?? Burlap fits in that theme well Really cool game.

#14 2 years ago

Repairs complete ready to prime head.

147968120026362606465 (resized).jpg
1479681219330729636648 (resized).jpg

#15 2 years ago

Head primed.

14796819548921044800601 (resized).jpg

1479681977309-1284902060 (resized).jpg

#16 2 years ago

Ready to gut the lower today.

1479740270805-1712543485 (resized).jpg

#17 2 years ago

Will pull the playfield as an assembly so plastics are removed along with the apron.

1479740664077-1299356519 (resized).jpg

14797407593541035846583 (resized).jpg

#18 2 years ago

Playfield out.

1479741351472-145358239 (resized).jpg

#19 2 years ago

Pulled as assembly.
Has some issues to sort out.

1479741839841711212577 (resized).jpg

1479742009301-1138982193 (resized).jpg

#20 2 years ago

Lower gutted.
Missing some wood all the way around the bottom lip.Rear is the worst.
Floor itself is straight and solid.

1479744760732-1093563692 (resized).jpg

1479744778588-1814448745 (resized).jpg

#21 2 years ago

What kind of bondo/filler do you use for cabinet repair?

#22 2 years ago

I went over to my warehouse and gutted another game I had for the lower.
This was a german version and while it adds to the workload a bit it is really more practical and will provide a better platform for this level of restoration.

1479755012725-992219491 (resized).jpg

14797550319371735645188 (resized).jpg

1479755054072-1715432645 (resized).jpg

#23 2 years ago

Ready to strip and repair.

14797553815461192075160 (resized).jpg

#24 2 years ago

Stripped lower ready to repair.

14797572218711431651975 (resized).jpg

1479757241230-1940321135 (resized).jpg

#25 2 years ago

Small pilot holes are made to better bond the deeper fill areas.

14797573993171285255733 (resized).jpg

1479757415513-198578062 (resized).jpg

#26 2 years ago

Skim coating and dealing with the worst areas first. This lower is overall solid front to back it is only the rear that is chipped badly at the legs and very grainy.
I use a higher grade of filler that is made for anything up to carbon fiber because it is very hard and strong and since it will bond well to carbon fiber wood is no problem.
There is not a lot of effort or ability to get the skim coat down neatly because it is a large area and you have to move fast before the filler starts to kick off.
The sanding procedure will but the most important part of getting it straight.

1479758248922-2142768768 (resized).jpg

#27 2 years ago

First coat knocked down.
Will need another lighter round.

1479759158012-1511470162 (resized).jpg

1479759188762199388550 (resized).jpg

#28 2 years ago

With the wood grain so open and the wood seemingly nice and dry, these pilot holes look awfully small to me to make a difference.

#29 2 years ago

Second coat applied .
Much easier to get a smoother application this pass. .

1479759796238903057152 (resized).jpg

#30 2 years ago

Second coat lightly sanded now guide coated and ready to block.

1479760850742-847848329 (resized).jpg

1479760885225-1069492295 (resized).jpg

#31 2 years ago

Your speed of execution defies comprehension. And you're simultaneously documenting the whole process with excellent pictures and useful tips. I'd still be working on taking the head apart.

#32 2 years ago

Back is blocked .
Grain free and straight.
Will open the holes back up next.

1479761507384521644161 (resized).jpg

1479761575538-1952242672 (resized).jpg

#33 2 years ago

Holes are opened back up.
I like to just wrap a little sand paper around a dowel and do a slight bevel until I see wood again.
That way I know leg bolts will not easily chip it out at anytime in the future.
It is still basically just roughed in at this point and will finesse more as I go.

1479762733909-1877164972 (resized).jpg

1479762762487148577530 (resized).jpg

#34 2 years ago

What is the material you're using to "skim coat"...Bondo or something else?

#35 2 years ago

Same process front.

1479764114835-1639281847 (resized).jpg

#36 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

What is the material you're using to "skim coat"...Bondo or something else?

I like Half Time.To really skim adding a little lacquer thinner to the mix will make it soupier.

#37 2 years ago

Thanks for documenting all of the restoration - great stuff! Is the Half Time the same product used for the major wood repair or is there another filler product being used as well? Just trying to learn something ...

#38 2 years ago

Front done.

1479765635399-56090962 (resized).jpg

14797656493091250736537 (resized).jpg

#39 2 years ago

Outside bottom sanded clean.
I will run a bead of glue all the way around the ply just to catch any loosening spots and shore up the rest.

1479766026667480555690 (resized).jpg

1479766073695-14608619 (resized).jpg

#40 2 years ago

Bead run.
Smoothed in with a mini roller and clamped where needed.
Will let that set overnight then do the final sand and prep prior to priming.

1479766342025-245290914 (resized).jpg

14797664892161383763323 (resized).jpg

1479766836523-1405481449 (resized).jpg

14797668959961519223514 (resized).jpg

#41 2 years ago
Quoted from lb1:

Your speed of execution defies comprehension. And you're simultaneously documenting the whole process with excellent pictures and useful tips.

He seems very enthused.

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

now guide coated and ready to block.

What do you mean by guide coated?

#43 2 years ago
Quoted from Mitch:

What do you mean by guide coated?

From what I recall from my auto body repair days in college, it's a light misting of paint, usually black, over the primer. Once you sand the guide coat off it reveals any imperfections.

"GUIDE COAT is designed to give the auto body refinish technician a visual guide to a smooth surface when sanding most primer surfaces and body fillers. It helps detect low spots, sand scratches or other minor imperfections in the repair."

#44 2 years ago

OMG, I can't wait to see what you do with this pin!

#45 2 years ago

Look at that F Ing mess of wiring.

Amazing to see the evolution of pinball.

#46 2 years ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

From what I recall from my auto body repair days in college, it's a light misting of paint, usually black, over the primer. Once you sand the guide coat off it reveals any imperfections.
"GUIDE COAT is designed to give the auto body refinish technician a visual guide to a smooth surface when sanding most primer surfaces and body fillers. It helps detect low spots, sand scratches or other minor imperfections in the repair."

Great description.

#47 2 years ago

How will you match colors? If you scan what you have right now you will scan patina. Or do you have manufacturer color chips? Or are there official color codes?

-14
#48 2 years ago

Seems a bit much for this machine....

-6
#49 2 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Seems a bit much for this machine....

I really do wonder why this game is special enough to someone to spend this kind of money on it. It looks pretty blah.

36
#50 2 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Seems a bit much for this machine....

I think you're missing the point of the excercise. +some of us are tired of seeing only TZs, MMs, AFMs etc get restored. Watch the man do his work and learn a thing or two.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 279.95
$ 279.95
2,300 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Seattle, WA
$ 279.95
$ 21.00
$ 399.95
$ 279.95
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
From: $ 175.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
There are 332 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 7.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside