There are only 5 machines listed on the Pinball owners website; 4 of these in Europe and just 1 in the US. You could try contacting these owners via the site and see if you get a reply and, better still, a copy of the schematic.

Or of course, Pinball Resource might just have a copy!

Planetary pinball list the game but sod all for it

Where you able to find a copy of the schematic? I'm in the process of picking this game up.

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Ask him first. If not I might be able to scan mine if I can get the thing to work.

Definitely buy the game though. Very underated and underappreciated for sure. Last one designed by Harry Mabs and first game with a swinging target.

We've been playing mine for over 5 years now. It's anchored.

Its due to arrive this evening. The past owner said when he was interested in repairing it himself he had the schematic but misplaced it many years ago. I would be grateful for whatever you can share. No one has this print commercially available that I can find globally. So few are recorded that still exist. Do you have an operational booklet also.

Tom

Did you ask PBResource? He has had every Williams schematic I have needed including some super rare ones from the 40s and 50s, so I kinda assumed he has the files for most or all of them.

Mine looks kinda like the Declaration of Independence and is not the easiest to read and is very fragile now, but I will be willing to do it so long as Steve Young does not indeed have one. No operations book though. Sorry.

Four score and seven years ago...

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Any idea where this goes? Its to short to go in the back box but I don't see a place for these plugs to go.

It was after hours so I did email PBResource. Nothing back yet. - Tom
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Pictures are nearly complete, just missing section 13.

Those look like they could be for the cabinet bell and the knocker. I'll get another pic of section 13.

You are gonna love this game!

Early on as I was bringing in more and more games, I had considered selling it. But it made the cut and stuck around until I was down to what I'm down to now.

Never ever leaving. Where would I find another?

Well you can see what I have for bells. Looks like I will be buying a replacement for the one that is missing. Could you take a snap shot of yours to see what I am going to have to find. Thanks for everything. - Tom

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Hi o-din
Yes - please, show the (missing) section 13 (12 to 14) - I then will put together the parts - straighten out and cleaning a bit.

Hi tcw16505
tell us if / when You can buy a paper schematics from pbr.

Greetings Rolf

Rolf! My good man. I will take care of that.

I've got guys here building a shed right now and have a bunch of stuff to do but I will get to it.

My game came with a later chime unit, but I took that out and put two original Williams bells, and third bell hanging from the match unit like early 60s style, that took some ingenuity to get to fit. I may have the 5" bell you need, but like I said, I got a bunch to do

Thanks o-din,

Take care of business and we'll catch up with you when you can. Grateful for all your doing to help. - Tom

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Wow! Mine is nice, but yours is super nice. Pure reds on the backglass and everything.

I had to do the usual remove all inserts and reglue them level. I've found wood glue is the only way to go on these older models.

You are going to have fun running the clock up and getting those upper side rollover lanes lit and then nailing them from the flippers and then smacking the upper arch. No shortage of power on this vintage of Williams.

Next to Pit Stop, this is the best multiplayer I have owned. Don't you love the artwork on this one?

Thought I would offer some pictures of the parts and assembles common to this pin. - Tom

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All I can say is you scored big time. What are there, less than ten of these left in the world? Who knows how many they started with.

Now you just need these other two to complete the trifecta. The one to the right of them is not bad either.

Check any coils that look like they have been replaced. I've seen 24 volt coils substituted and they will work but burn a hole in a stepper plate.
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In an effort to make a more perfect union.

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Andyzola87, Where did you find the print? - Tom

Thanks o-din! This was the bit we were missing from the previous photo shoot. I enhanced it best I could but I'm still have trouble reading all of it but this does make it complete. I hope your shed work went well for you.

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Don't worry, I'll do it again. It was late.

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Seriously, when I took that pic last night of them all spread out I was convinced I was missing a section.

That gives me a fighting chance at solving the problems this has. Thanks so much!

Pinball resource does have the print, $16.50 + $5.96 S&H US. Accepting orders via the Phone (845) 473-7114.

So all that hard work was for nothing? Ha!

Anyway, I got my shed built and most stuff moved into it, so if I can be of any more service, let me know!

I got 1400 on my clock last night and you will find out that's a pretty good game. Nobody's rolled it at 2000 yet since it's been here.

Hi pinsiders
I join o-din (post-26) --- I show the PDF I made --- but "first: buy You an schematics" --- or then (second) You may use my PDF for orientation - then look-up in o-dins original JPGs. Greetings Rolf
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Don't mention it.

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Now all five owners of this game have two copies.

@o-din @rolf_martin_062 @Andyzola87

Any idea where to find any of the playfield 10-point plastics (I need 2)? Previous owner put clear plexiglass in the holes cut very cleanly to the proper OD but I would love to find old stock or a Williams source for these.

I did get the machine up to 100% today logically and mechanically. Gummed up steppers, several open contacts in the relay bank, open wire in one real and a bare wire short in another. Open contact in the score motor (no 5 pulses for 50 points). Very pleased with the play now that bugs are fixed and the flipper links are new. The metal ones where worn strait through!

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Fortunately mine came with all the inserts with the numbers intact. But like many games from this era they had sunk so I had to reglue them.

On my Arrow Head somebody had filled some with glue goo which destroyed them, so I pulled some of the same size out of an extra Kings playfield, sanded off the art and repainted them to match. I have a few more but they look to be a different size.

What I would do is try to source some of the same size, from a play field of similar era and do the same. You can try the EM parts seeking thread to see if anybody has any, otherwise just get new ones. Finding an exact match with the numbers on them will be pretty tough.

The original inserts will probably have a little shrinkage on the bottom, but that makes them easier to remove after heating them up with an old hair dryer. I use wood glue as that secures them and helps fill in any gaps. Also super easy to work with.

Another quirk mine had was the swinging target would pause when it got all the way to the left. This was not normal and was caused by the motor shaft being slightly bent from years of hits.

I fixed it by either trying to give it a slight bend to straighten it out or repositioning the target against the bend or both. It's been five years so it's a little tough to remember but it's worked great ever since.

The design of the swinging target makes it almost indestructible, as I have not seen one fail yet. But Magic Clock's seems to be it's own beast as the other games I've had with them use a different motor assembly.

I just replaced the target on mine with a beautiful new one from Marco's.

Well after installing all the needed new parts and coining up it the game has stoped working properly. Go figure right? Here is what it was doing.
*The 25Cent Relay is energised,
*Score Motor is running continuesly,
*Game Relay is energised as well as the
*2nd Play Tilt Relay.

I began to check the 25Cent relay circuit. I made my way to the door and was checking it over doing some wire managment and I noticed a stuck quarter (from 1978) holding the micro switch closed. As I got the quarter out (25c richer, thank you very much) the "Score Motor" stoped. Problem solved.

Tom

I see 5 fuse locations on the schematic. How many do you need to know about?