(Topic ID: 139636)
Rutland, VT
You have to bridge the burned trace to the next available junction point. I usually will solder a wire from the pin of the transistor to the next available solder point. Then I check the topside. Meter everything out on Ohms setting to verify everything is happy. I also secure the wire with a dab of hot glue so it doesn't move around.
Others may do it differently - that's how I do it.
The picture is fuzzy when expanded but there's nothing too serious there.
Remove the part.
Clean up the carbon and old solder residue.
Scratch off the solder mask and tin the trace.
Reinstall the part using remaining available pads.
Jumper as necessary as stated above.
It might not be pretty, but it will work.
It is possible to rebuild the traces and through holes, but the equipment to do it right is very expensive.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Thanks guys, I appreciate the responses.
Chris, what would that equipment be, and what kind of investment? I have looked around a fair bit for information on actually rebuilding traces and through holes, and there is not a ton of info out there at least specific to what we deal with in pinball.
Check out terryb's article, here...
http://www.pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/board-rework-test/246-pad-and-trace-repair
Somewhere on one of his pages he talks about the right equipment.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
wow, thanks for reminding me of that article. i have watched that best video at the end many times, but never noticed to follow the links. those circuit frames are VERY pricey. about 5x what I figured they would be.
The Datak kit Terry mentions seems like a pretty good deal to just have around and start to mess with this stuff. Reposting the link here in case anyone else is interested: http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=945
Quoted from Robotoes:The Datak kit Terry mentions seems like a pretty good deal to just have around and start to mess with this stuff. Reposting the link here in case anyone else is interested: http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=945
Thanks for posting that link, that seems like the cheapest solution I have seen. I wonder how you get these to stick to the board, it mentions using a burnishing tool, but the link is broken.
So, I need a little more help with this. I pulled off the transistor yesterday and after doing that realized all of the eyelets were gone.
Can I just do three jumpers for the new one? Here's the section...Q40 is what is in question.
One to IJ11-7
One to IJ13-4 (or just to the same pin of a neighboring transistor??)
One to SR2-8
Also, side question about metering resistor networks (as I suspect SR2 likely damaged) - reference the common pin and all others should read 2.7k?
You can put a few strands of wire through the through-hole as a replacement option. There's a special heat-resistant polyimide tape you can use to secure things in place while soldering.
Quoted from ForceFlow:You can put a few strands of wire through the through-hole as a replacement option. There's a special heat-resistant polyimide tape you can use to secure things in place while soldering.
I do this a lot when through holes are busted. Take an appropriate sized lead from a diode/resistor whatever. On the top side, scrape some solder mask off to expose surface to solder to. Thread the lead through the hole and bend it down over the trace forming it into the shape of the trace. Then solder down that lead to the top side of the pcb and use the lead to give you something to solder to on the back side of the board. Not ideal, but looks better than having jumper wires.
EM Trace Repair/Replacement (Gun Game)
Just finished this and will test in a couple days.
Before and after pics.
1st pic shows all the traces or what is left after they were shorted and burned off.
The next pic shows the new 1/8" self adhesive replacement trace tape soldered in and glued. No solder station needed, just a light duty solder iron.
Can't get new PCB's for these and good used ones are rare, so repair is usually the only way to go on these old gun games. It's not pretty but it should function just fine.
Ken 
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