Help with Teacher's Pet Start-up

(Topic ID: 207283)

Help with Teacher's Pet Start-up

By ncsujeff

9 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by rolf_martin_062
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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0Full-House-Work-02 (resized).jpg
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#1 9 months ago

When I push the left button ...

Lock Relay pulls in
Tilt Relay pulls in

When the coin switch is activated ...

Replay Relay pulls in
Coin Relay pulls in
Tilt Relay is reset if the score motor runs

I have messed with for a couple of days and can not get the game to start.

connections look good and I have tested with a multimeter
I have looked at all the switches and they look OK. Have only cleaned a couple.

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated. I have read what I could find on the internet.

#2 9 months ago

I'd have to see the schematic. Staples will scan it for $2, or Kinkos will for $6.
The reason I insist on the high quality scan is that I've tried to help many times with phone pic schematics and every time they're blurry, incomplete or in multiple pieces which makes them too hard to read. Make it easy for us to help you!

#3 9 months ago

Made some progress. I can now get the game to start-up, but I have to manually actuate the score reset relay until the score is all zero. The hot wire from the score motor to the score reset relay has continuity. Switch is making and breaking on the score motor.

#4 9 months ago

I'm not familiar with this game, but have to made sure your Jones plugs are clean and Shiney? Usually when I have a problem that isn't making sense I will check Jones plugs and usually find that cleaning and putting them back together changes how the machine works..

#5 9 months ago

Hi ncsujeff
does Your pin has the "Reset-Relay" --- later Williams pins start-up: Throwing-in a coin worth a game makes the Coin-Relay (better name would be "Start-Relay") to pull-in. If we press the Credit-Button then a Credit-Relay (makes the Credit-Unit step down) makes the Coin (Start) Relay to pull-in.
The pulling-in Coin-Relay makes the Reset-Relay pull-in --- as long in time this Reset-Relay is pulling: The Motor runs and Score-Reset-Relay(s) are pulsed - the Score-Drums are stepped towards Zero-Position.

(When You have an Reset-Relay) AAA: As the Coin-Relay pulls-in - at the same time press the armature of the Reset-Relay and let go - what happens ?
(When You have an Reset-Relay) BBB: As the Coin-Relay pulls-in - at the same time press the armature of the Reset-Relay and press, press, press - do theScore-Drums reset ? Greetings Rolf

#6 9 months ago

It does have a Reset-Relay and it works just as you described. It was not pulling in when I started working on it this morning, but it now does. As long as it is pulled in, the start-up motor runs. ... unless you set the score to all zeros. I do that by pressing the score reset relay several times until all are zero.

I have not tried cleaning each jones connector, but I did go down each one with a multi-meter. I assume that is not a 100% way of checking as you can get continuity through other wiring.

#7 9 months ago

Hi ncsujeff
I dream of "You do the AAA" --- the Reset-Relay establishes "Self-Hold-Current" means stays pulling UNTIL all the Score-Drums are resetted.
IF (if, if) this is what happens: We then could concentrate on the question: "How (wiring) does the pulling Coin-Relay lets current flow to the "Coil on Reset-Relay". Greetings Rolf

#8 9 months ago

While the reset relay is pulled in, the score motor is running, but the score reset relay does not cycle and reset the score.

I tried pressing the armature of the Reset Relay the same time as the Coin Relay is pulled in. Same result. Score motor runs, but the score does not attempt to zero.

Cleaned the Jones connectors. Same result. Score will not reset.

#9 9 months ago

Fixed it. Bad contact on the coil relay. Adjusted.

#10 9 months ago

Hi ncsujeff
we need the schematics. See in the JPG "Full House": The pulling Coin-Relay closes (encircled green) its switch - the Reset-Relay starts pulling-in. The Reset-Relay establishes Self-Hold-Current by closing (encircled orange) its switch. The Reset-Relay stays pulling until all the Score-Drums (encircled red) switches open as they reach their position-Zero.

On the bottom of the JPG You see "encircled blue": The motor rhythmically closes its switch because the motor is turning - the "Switch on the pulling Reset-Relay" is closed. AND (in Full House) - encircled brown: The Coin-Relay must have quit pulling so its switch is closed.

Want to try --- do not start a game by pressing the Credit-Button - do not start a game by pressing the armature on the Coin-Relay --- do: Press the armature on the Reset-Relay - try "press and let go" as well try "press - press - press".

A picture taken with an mobile phone camera of that area is good enough ---but we must see the wiring in YOUR pin. Greetings Rolf

0Full-House-Work-01 (resized).jpg

#11 9 months ago

Thanks for all your help. Got it working.

I am not sure if the special is working correctly. If you knock down the targets with special on, the solenoid on the credit unit pulls in, but does not release until you roll over the target reset button. Seems like a good way to burn up a solenoid.

I can scan in the wiring diagram if you still want. May be a few days.

#12 9 months ago

Hi ncsujeff
I bet a lot of pinsiders would like to see the complete schematics of Teacher's Pet - a classic Williams pin.
I show for orientation the area on "Full House" - the Replay-Unit-step-up-Coil and ALL the wires to this coil --- in some way Your "Special feature" makes the Replay-Unit step-up. Please take an mobile-phone-camera picture of the area on Teacher's Pet - and we look at it.

Two general rules are:
The "Power-only***" Coil on a flipper-bat is allowed to (fully) pull for one to two seconds --- if it pulls longer in time the coil will overheat and burn.
All other coils on relays and steppers are allowed to constantly (faulty) pull for one to two minutes --- if they pull longer in time the coil will eventually overheat and burn.
When we do testing we are ready to toggle-off the pin - we do testing for ten to thirty seconds - maybe to one minute or maybe to two minutes - but then we must toggle-off the pin and let it cool-down.
"Power-only***" Coil - as the flipper-bat moves: At the end of moving the bat opens an EOS-Switch - so a second windings also is in line --- and the second windings has high resistance hindering the Power-only*** Coil to suck plenty current - now the Power-only*** Coil cannot overheat. Greetings Rolf

0Full-House-Work-02 (resized).jpg

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