(Topic ID: 296968)

Help with Tales from the Crypt!

By Pinball-DOOD

2 years ago


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    #1 2 years ago

    Hey all!

    I just recently acquired a Tales from the Crypt and I am currently having an issue where when I hit the flipper buttons, the back right VUK under the playfield fires. The flippers are super sluggish and that VUK coil is, too. The outlet plug seems to be slightly damaged and the same VUK coil was damaged. The game was working fine until I started LEDing. The auto launch coil is inoperative, also. Any ideas? Thanks!

    #2 2 years ago
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    #3 2 years ago

    Disconnected the VUK coil and the flippers are still sluggish. The coil launch is not working

    #5 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    I'd get an outlet checker and plug it into the service outlet. See if hot, common, and ground are all working right.
    That would let you know from wall to service outlet is good.
    LTG : )

    Thanks! But I am leaning towards a bad driver. The game Boots okay! It just some coils are not working and the flippers are weak. Could it be outlet-based?!

    #6 2 years ago

    I have never owned a Data East so this is new to me!

    #7 2 years ago

    Auto launch and kickback coil is out!

    #9 2 years ago
    Quoted from phishrace:

    For non working coils, you need to check fuses, test for voltage at coils. For weak coils, check the Coil Pulse Power setting in standard settings. Should be at least normal, not the lowest setting. Try hard and see if it makes any difference.
    If flippers are making the VUK fire, the switch likely needs adjustment. Put the game into switch edges test and pound on the playfield with your fist to see if any switches trigger. VUK rebuild kits are available from the usual sources.

    Thanks, I will do this and get back to you.

    #11 2 years ago
    Quoted from 1iblind:

    If you added any LED light strips disconnect them. I've had a few Data East games have coil problems because of LED light strips. Disconnected them and the coil issues went away. Not saying this is the issue you're having but it's worth a shot.

    Hmm, interesting. I didn’t install any so I’m not sure

    #12 2 years ago

    I am confused to why there is little power to the flippers and multiple coils are dead and low power. Could it be the LEDs? I see people LED Tales all the time!

    #13 2 years ago

    Bad fuse on f5! Man, I feel dumb. Thanks, guys! It works perfect now

    #14 2 years ago

    Okay, now I am getting closer! F5 fuse keeps blowing upon boot up. Anyone have the schematics handy and could tell me which larger driver (PPB) it could be? Thanks!

    #15 2 years ago

    I can’t see which coil is holding because the fuse blows immediately. I disconnected that broken VUK coil and I am still getting the issue. Anyone know what fuses run off of F5? Thanks! I need to find the bad coil, replace it, and the drivers/pre drivers but I am just not sure which ones go to F5

    #17 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Check the big transistor on your board, it is likely bad.
    LTG : )

    Sounds good! How would I check one of those? Black lead on ground and red on Transistor? Thanks!

    #18 2 years ago

    I have been putting a 1 amp fuse in place of the 5 amp fuse, is this a problem? I am not over-amping it but maybe this is why it keeps blowing?

    #20 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Check manual - if it's supposed to be 5 amps, yes 1 amp would blow fast.

    Youtube has lots of short videos to help you.
    LTG : )

    Okay, thanks! I will meter the big drivers!

    #21 2 years ago

    None of the drivers are bad. Maybe a bad bridge rectifier? BR1?

    #22 2 years ago

    It’s not BR1. Hmmm.

    #23 2 years ago

    When I put a 5 amp in it, it started working! So I will let you all know. Nothing is holding

    #24 2 years ago

    5 amp blew again! Any ideas?

    #25 2 years ago

    So found out that disabling the auto-plunge coil stops the fuse from blowing. Should I replace this coil?

    #26 2 years ago

    The auto plunge reads 11 in diode test!

    #28 2 years ago
    Quoted from GRB1959:

    Is your auto-plunge coil shorting out? Check and make sure that metal from the auto-plunge coil is not touching anything else that is metal near it. I had a similar problem with my TZ auto-plunge coil which was touching nearby metal and once I adjusted the coil bracket so that it was not touching any nearby metal the problem was resolved.
    Gord

    Thanks! So the back VUK coil is a mess. The plastic where the lugs are are all broken and rigged and I think that is what is blowing the fuse. I just ordered the new coil and fuses. I’ll let you all know. Thanks!

    #31 2 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    Are there any diodes on your coil. Maybe one is blown or loose. Also check that the plunger moves in and out of the coil freely. Any restrictions could blow a fuse.

    It moves freely! But because the plastic part of the coil is broken, the diode is loose. So I think we are on to something!

    #33 2 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    Make sure the diode doesn’t have a broken leg and that both ends are attached. If it’s just wobbly from the broken plastic it’ll still work, but if one leg isn’t attached it’ll pop your fuse.

    Very true! I just a bought a whole new coil just to be safe. It should be here this week.

    #35 2 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    A lot of times a new coil doesn’t come with a diode and you have to purchase separately. It would be best to just order a diode and not the coil, because the coil is probably fine. You can also just test the diode that is currently on it.

    I ordered the coil and diode separately and they just came in

    #36 2 years ago

    Installed the coil and everything was working and then when the ball was in the VUK, the coil started smoking. Any ideas?

    #37 2 years ago

    image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
    #39 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Transistor failed. New coil and diode wired right ?
    LTG : )

    Hmm. Yes! I put it the same way is it was installed before

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    #40 2 years ago

    Could anyone confirm that it is supposed to be a 23-800 coil?

    #42 2 years ago

    Had the wires arranged like this! Even with the new coil

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    #43 2 years ago

    The fuses blew, also!

    #44 2 years ago

    This is the coil I bought. Did I get a wrong one?!

    image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
    #46 2 years ago

    I think I was right!

    #47 2 years ago

    I put the old coil back in and now it holds upon boot up. None of the drivers in the back test bad except for I get a beep on the VR1 driver on the power supply board. Is this supposed to be opened? For is this shorted?

    #48 2 years ago

    frunch Hope you don’t mind jumping in!

    #49 2 years ago

    Would this suffice for TIP36? Thanks!

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    #52 2 years ago

    Frunch RULES!!

    #53 2 years ago

    I will report back once I get everything installed! I did this to a Data East Guns and Roses recently so it should be fine.

    1 week later
    #54 2 years ago

    Just a heads up! I am on vacation and once I get back, I’ll fix it up and let you all know what happens!

    1 week later
    #55 2 years ago

    Going to fix tomorrow!

    #56 2 years ago

    Ahhh, so we fixed the back VUK and it fired perfectly fine but now the knocker coil is holding! I disconnected it and then something else started smoking and I don’t know where

    #57 2 years ago

    Ball won’t kick into shooter lane also upon game start!

    #59 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Now you might know. Maybe blew a fuse too.
    LTG : )

    I will check! When I run through the coil test the flashers will hold. There is a bad connector job that coordinates with the drivers I just replaced. I will post a picture!

    #60 2 years ago

    Could this connector be an issue?

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    #61 2 years ago

    Back VUK is holding again!

    #62 2 years ago

    Unplugged that connector and started a game. It will just run and not kick a ball out, then after a few seconds it will restart the current game

    #64 2 years ago
    Quoted from LOTR_breath:

    Those header pins look burned badly. But it also looks like the connector is on wrong. Looks like the empty pin next to the far right pin isn't lined up with the blank pin. That's why there should be a plastic key pin in that hole, to prevent plugging it in wrong. It looks like you could use a new board, or at least some professional repair work done.

    That is what I am thinking! When I plug that connector in, that is when I get issues

    #66 2 years ago

    Ah good call. But the CN11 connector I posted is on the MPU! Could you provide a link to where I can find this?

    #68 2 years ago
    Quoted from LOTR_breath:

    Ah, my mistake. I thought we were looking at the power driver board. MPU board is much pricier...
    https://www.pinballlife.com/rottendog-data-east-mpu-board.html

    All good! Thanks!

    #69 2 years ago

    Think I am gonna switch that CN11 connector out

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