(Topic ID: 296968)

Help with Tales from the Crypt!

By Pinball-DOOD

11 days ago


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  • 53 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Pinball-DOOD
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    There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 11 days ago

    Hey all!

    I just recently acquired a Tales from the Crypt and I am currently having an issue where when I hit the flipper buttons, the back right VUK under the playfield fires. The flippers are super sluggish and that VUK coil is, too. The outlet plug seems to be slightly damaged and the same VUK coil was damaged. The game was working fine until I started LEDing. The auto launch coil is inoperative, also. Any ideas? Thanks!

    #2 11 days ago
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    #3 11 days ago

    Disconnected the VUK coil and the flippers are still sluggish. The coil launch is not working

    #4 11 days ago

    I'd get an outlet checker and plug it into the service outlet. See if hot, common, and ground are all working right.

    That would let you know from wall to service outlet is good.

    LTG : )

    #5 11 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    I'd get an outlet checker and plug it into the service outlet. See if hot, common, and ground are all working right.
    That would let you know from wall to service outlet is good.
    LTG : )

    Thanks! But I am leaning towards a bad driver. The game Boots okay! It just some coils are not working and the flippers are weak. Could it be outlet-based?!

    #6 11 days ago

    I have never owned a Data East so this is new to me!

    #7 11 days ago

    Auto launch and kickback coil is out!

    #8 11 days ago

    For non working coils, you need to check fuses, test for voltage at coils. For weak coils, check the Coil Pulse Power setting in standard settings. Should be at least normal, not the lowest setting. Try hard and see if it makes any difference.

    If flippers are making the VUK fire, the switch likely needs adjustment. Put the game into switch edges test and pound on the playfield with your fist to see if any switches trigger. VUK rebuild kits are available from the usual sources.

    #9 11 days ago
    Quoted from phishrace:

    For non working coils, you need to check fuses, test for voltage at coils. For weak coils, check the Coil Pulse Power setting in standard settings. Should be at least normal, not the lowest setting. Try hard and see if it makes any difference.
    If flippers are making the VUK fire, the switch likely needs adjustment. Put the game into switch edges test and pound on the playfield with your fist to see if any switches trigger. VUK rebuild kits are available from the usual sources.

    Thanks, I will do this and get back to you.

    #10 11 days ago

    If you added any LED light strips disconnect them. I've had a few Data East games have coil problems because of LED light strips. Disconnected them and the coil issues went away. Not saying this is the issue you're having but it's worth a shot.

    #11 11 days ago
    Quoted from 1iblind:

    If you added any LED light strips disconnect them. I've had a few Data East games have coil problems because of LED light strips. Disconnected them and the coil issues went away. Not saying this is the issue you're having but it's worth a shot.

    Hmm, interesting. I didn’t install any so I’m not sure

    #12 11 days ago

    I am confused to why there is little power to the flippers and multiple coils are dead and low power. Could it be the LEDs? I see people LED Tales all the time!

    #13 11 days ago

    Bad fuse on f5! Man, I feel dumb. Thanks, guys! It works perfect now

    #14 11 days ago

    Okay, now I am getting closer! F5 fuse keeps blowing upon boot up. Anyone have the schematics handy and could tell me which larger driver (PPB) it could be? Thanks!

    #15 11 days ago

    I can’t see which coil is holding because the fuse blows immediately. I disconnected that broken VUK coil and I am still getting the issue. Anyone know what fuses run off of F5? Thanks! I need to find the bad coil, replace it, and the drivers/pre drivers but I am just not sure which ones go to F5

    #16 11 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    I disconnected that broken VUK coil and I am still getting the issue.

    Check the big transistor on your board, it is likely bad.

    LTG : )

    #17 11 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Check the big transistor on your board, it is likely bad.
    LTG : )

    Sounds good! How would I check one of those? Black lead on ground and red on Transistor? Thanks!

    #18 11 days ago

    I have been putting a 1 amp fuse in place of the 5 amp fuse, is this a problem? I am not over-amping it but maybe this is why it keeps blowing?

    #19 11 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    I have been putting a 1 amp fuse in place of the 5 amp fuse, is this a problem?

    Check manual - if it's supposed to be 5 amps, yes 1 amp would blow fast.

    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    How would I check one of those?

    Youtube has lots of short videos to help you.

    LTG : )

    #20 11 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Check manual - if it's supposed to be 5 amps, yes 1 amp would blow fast.

    Youtube has lots of short videos to help you.
    LTG : )

    Okay, thanks! I will meter the big drivers!

    #21 11 days ago

    None of the drivers are bad. Maybe a bad bridge rectifier? BR1?

    #22 11 days ago

    It’s not BR1. Hmmm.

    #23 11 days ago

    When I put a 5 amp in it, it started working! So I will let you all know. Nothing is holding

    #24 11 days ago

    5 amp blew again! Any ideas?

    #25 11 days ago

    So found out that disabling the auto-plunge coil stops the fuse from blowing. Should I replace this coil?

    #26 11 days ago

    The auto plunge reads 11 in diode test!

    #27 11 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    So found out that disabling the auto-plunge coil stops the fuse from blowing. Should I replace this coil?

    Is your auto-plunge coil shorting out? Check and make sure that metal from the auto-plunge coil is not touching anything else that is metal near it. I had a similar problem with my TZ auto-plunge coil which was touching nearby metal and once I adjusted the coil bracket so that it was not touching any nearby metal the problem was resolved.

    Gord

    #28 11 days ago
    Quoted from GRB1959:

    Is your auto-plunge coil shorting out? Check and make sure that metal from the auto-plunge coil is not touching anything else that is metal near it. I had a similar problem with my TZ auto-plunge coil which was touching nearby metal and once I adjusted the coil bracket so that it was not touching any nearby metal the problem was resolved.
    Gord

    Thanks! So the back VUK coil is a mess. The plastic where the lugs are are all broken and rigged and I think that is what is blowing the fuse. I just ordered the new coil and fuses. I’ll let you all know. Thanks!

    #29 10 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    I just ordered the new coil and fuses.

    Disassembling the VUK to replace the coil without damaging any parts is very difficult. As I mentioned about, VUK rebuild kits are available from multiple sources. With the kit, disassembly is much faster. Just cut the cup off that holds the ball with wire cutters and it all comes apart. Your pic above appears to show the original parts. I would not recommend trying to disassemble and reassemble those old parts.

    #30 10 days ago

    Are there any diodes on your coil. Maybe one is blown or loose. Also check that the plunger moves in and out of the coil freely. Any restrictions could blow a fuse.

    #31 10 days ago
    Quoted from trk12fire:

    Are there any diodes on your coil. Maybe one is blown or loose. Also check that the plunger moves in and out of the coil freely. Any restrictions could blow a fuse.

    It moves freely! But because the plastic part of the coil is broken, the diode is loose. So I think we are on to something!

    #32 10 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    It moves freely! But because the plastic part of the coil is broken, the diode is loose. So I think we are on to something!

    Make sure the diode doesn’t have a broken leg and that both ends are attached. If it’s just wobbly from the broken plastic it’ll still work, but if one leg isn’t attached it’ll pop your fuse.

    #33 8 days ago
    Quoted from trk12fire:

    Make sure the diode doesn’t have a broken leg and that both ends are attached. If it’s just wobbly from the broken plastic it’ll still work, but if one leg isn’t attached it’ll pop your fuse.

    Very true! I just a bought a whole new coil just to be safe. It should be here this week.

    #34 8 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    Very true! I just a bought a whole new coil just to be safe. It should be here this week.

    A lot of times a new coil doesn’t come with a diode and you have to purchase separately. It would be best to just order a diode and not the coil, because the coil is probably fine. You can also just test the diode that is currently on it.

    #35 7 days ago
    Quoted from trk12fire:

    A lot of times a new coil doesn’t come with a diode and you have to purchase separately. It would be best to just order a diode and not the coil, because the coil is probably fine. You can also just test the diode that is currently on it.

    I ordered the coil and diode separately and they just came in

    #36 4 days ago

    Installed the coil and everything was working and then when the ball was in the VUK, the coil started smoking. Any ideas?

    #37 4 days ago

    image (resized).jpg
    #38 4 days ago

    Transistor failed. New coil and diode wired right ?

    LTG : )

    #39 4 days ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Transistor failed. New coil and diode wired right ?
    LTG : )

    Hmm. Yes! I put it the same way is it was installed before

    image (resized).jpg
    #40 4 days ago

    Could anyone confirm that it is supposed to be a 23-800 coil?

    #41 4 days ago
    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    Yes! I put it the same way is it was installed before

    Diode is on right. Couldn't tell from your picture if wires were in correct spots.

    Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

    Could anyone confirm that it is supposed to be a 23-800 coil?

    That wouldn't cause the coil to fry. It likely is, or close enough.

    LTG : )

    #42 4 days ago

    Had the wires arranged like this! Even with the new coil

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    #43 4 days ago

    The fuses blew, also!

    #44 4 days ago

    This is the coil I bought. Did I get a wrong one?!

    image (resized).jpg
    #45 4 days ago

    Here's a pdf of the manual, it will help a lot with part #s

    https://www.ipdb.org/files/2493/Data_East_1993_Tales_from_the_Crypt_Manual.pdf

    #46 4 days ago

    I think I was right!

    #47 4 days ago

    I put the old coil back in and now it holds upon boot up. None of the drivers in the back test bad except for I get a beep on the VR1 driver on the power supply board. Is this supposed to be opened? For is this shorted?

    #48 4 days ago

    frunch Hope you don’t mind jumping in!

    #49 4 days ago

    Would this suffice for TIP36? Thanks!

    A5AED355-A43A-49FD-A344-C233E0851E3A (resized).png
    #50 4 days ago

    Pinball-DOOD reached out to me for a bit of assistance with this, figured I'd post up here what I suggested. If I have anything wrong here, please correct me:
    --------------------------------
    I think the manual calls it the "Top VUK". Based on that, here would be the transistors to check:

    PPB board: Q2 TIP36
    CPU board: Q40 TIP 122 or TIP102 (both are suitable replacements)
    Also on CPU board: Q32 2N4401

    It's recommended in cases like this to replace all 3 of the transistors in the circuit (1 on PPB and 2 on CPU) even if they don't all test bad. Make sure to orient all the parts correctly on the board when replacing them! Make sure to wire up coil correctly too.
    -------------------------------------
    The TIP36C you posted from jameco should be correct. Get at least an extra or 2 as backups...

    There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

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