(Topic ID: 198710)

Help with Stern Galaxy please...


By dbpbandit

2 years ago



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  • Galaxy Stern Electronics, 1980

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#1 2 years ago

I gave up on this game a long time ago but I really want to get it working. I need help...
When I got the game it was DOA.

I rebuilt the voltage reg. and it test out ok, I think...

I replaced the MPU with an Alltek ultimate CPU and the Power board with a Rottendog BPS022.

When I turn the game on I get nothing and the self test LED on the Alltek keeps blinking.

In troubleshooting I have found the following:

On Rottendog BPS022, LED1 and LED 2 are lit.
Test points read OK except for TP2 (should be 12v) is reading 16v. TP4 (should be 180v) is reading 66v. I am assuming this is because there is no load on it? Or do I have a voltage problem elsewhere?

Next step in the process on the MPU.
With everything plugged in self test keeps blinking so I unplugged everything to the MPU board and tested. I found this:

(I basically started plugging one connector in at a time and power cycled for each)

Every time I turn on the game in with any plug, except for J4, I get the proper 8 blinks on the self test LED and then goes dim. (this is how it should be)

As soon as I plug in J4 it fails and keeps blinking.

So, next, I unplugged everything coming to the J4 plug and started again by plugging everything in one at a time. Now I find that as soon as I plug in J4 on the driver board it fails again...

Could the driver board have an issue? As a side note, as soon as I plug in the ribbon cables from the sound board I get a low hum and the self test on the MPU keeps blinking, so thats another issue.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated since like I said, I really want to get this game working. Thank you.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Should be a quick faint blip and then 7 flashes.
What is the condition of the the rectifier board especially the fuse holders and pins/connectors? Have you verified all the voltages on the rectifier board are correct? Once you've done that check the test points on the SDB and then MPU.

I rebuilt the rectifier board back before I gave up on it for a while. I will check the test points and make sure I have the correct voltages. If I remember correctly, I did have the right voltages but it's been a while. Thanks.

#4 2 years ago

OK, I tested the voltage on the regulator board, I may have an issue here.

TP1 = 6.3 vdc
TP2 = 5.4 vdc
TP3 = 15.4 vdc
TP4 = 6.9 vac
TP5 = 65.8 vdc

If I am reading my information correctly I should have 230 vdc on TP2? TP4 should have 7.3 vac. Everything looks correct on the board, why am I missing voltage on TP2 and TP4???
I'm not sure if this is the cause of the other issues but it's definitely not correct. What should I do now?

(edit) So I was thinking about this and the last time I tried to get this game working. I seem to remember that I need to have the SDB hooked up to get correct TP readings on the voltage regulator. I'm not sure if it was connected hen I was testing this. It's late now so I will check in the morning. If I remember correctly, when I had it hooked up to the SDB my readings were good. I'll just verify. Thanks.

#5 2 years ago

OK, so I made sure the SDB was connected and I retested. The results were pretty close to the same. Where should I go from here? Thank you.

#6 2 years ago

Bump

#7 2 years ago

Bump - Bump

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

TP2 is the display voltage - in dark lighting, can you see the glow at the bottom of the displays?
You can probably ignore the display voltage for now, it shouldn't be stopping the game from booting.
So basically the MPU board will do the first flicker then 7 flashes, then dim LED so long as J4 is disconnected from the SDB? If yes, does attract mode start and the displays work?
J4 at the SDB is just signals to activate solenoids - it's unusual that it would stop the MPU from starting. Have you at any point repinned the connectors and maybe accidentally put a wire in the wrong spot?
Please leave the sound board disconnected for now - it could be a red herring.
What state is the original Stern MPU-200 board in?

Thanks for the assist... Here are the details to your questions:

Q) "in dark lighting, can you see the glow at the bottom of the displays?"

A) No, I can see nothing on any of the displays.

Q) "So basically the MPU board will do the first flicker then 7 flashes, then dim LED so long as J4 is disconnected from the SDB?"

A) Yes, this is correct.

Q) "If yes, does attract mode start and the displays work?"

A) No, the game does nothing at all. Nothing on any of the displays. With the exception of the GI's the game is dead as far as I can tell.

Q) "Have you at any point re-pinned the connectors and maybe accidentally put a wire in the wrong spot?"

A) I have not, but that is not to say the previous owner did not. He was a hack and I think that may be one of the issues. However, I can't seem to find anywhere that tells me which wires should go where. I have some incomplete schematics that do not show this and honestly, I'm not that great with schematics since my eyes are not the best anymore.

Q) "What state is the original Stern MPU-200 board in?"

A) The original board was fried, literally, I have no idea what this guy did to it but it was a lost cause. I ended up selling it for parts. That's why I got the Alltek board.

I agree about the sound board, I will keep it disconnected.

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Can you disconnect J4 from the SDB and also disconnect the cabinet and playfield switch harnesses from the MPU board (J2 and J3).
Does attract mode now start?
Can you measure the voltage at the braid wire running between each of the feature lamps on the playfield? (note, this is not a ground wire, it is the lamp power wire and you should read about 5.4VDC). Just trying to see why the lamps aren't doing anything once the MPU LED stops blinking.
Do you have the Alltek configured correctly for Galaxy with the dip switches?
If you're able, post some clear pictures of the J1 and J4 connector at the MPU board and also J4 at the SDB so we can see the wire colors and where they are.
Do you have a logic probe?

I won't be home until late tonight but if I have a chance I will do this an d report back. I can answer some of your questions now though;

Q) "Do you have the Alltek configured correctly for Galaxy with the dip switches?'

A) Yes, I have verified this, several times...

Q) "Do you have a logic probe?"

A) No, but I could get one if needed. I've never used one but I'm willing to learn.

I will take care of the rest of these items and also some picks if the connectors and wires. Thanks again for the help. -Dave

#12 2 years ago

Task:

"Can you disconnect J4 from the SDB and also disconnect the cabinet and play field switch harnesses from the MPU board (J2 and J3).
Does attract mode now start?"

No, attract mode does not start.

"Can you measure the voltage at the braid wire running between each of the feature lamps on the play field? "

I am getting 7.1 vdc at this wire. (it's not braided, it's a solid wire. And by "feature lamps" I am assuming you meas the laps that would light up the "bonus", "advance" , etc. lights?) (pic's below)

I hope the picks are clear. I appreciate the help. Thanks.

J4 connector (resized).jpg

J1 connector (resized).jpg

feature lamp (resized).jpg

#15 2 years ago

Sorry, I didn't get in till really late last night.

Q) "When you rebuilt the rectifier board do you remember if you disconnected/reconnected the transformer to it"

A) Yes, I did disconnect everything but took notes and pictures. I believe I reconnected everything correctly but then again, I'm human. I'll send a Pic.

Q) "Are you able to test bridge rectifier BR3 on the rectifier board with a multi-meter?

A) Yes, I can, do I need to remove it from the board or can I test without it in circuit?

Q) "Can you also test the four standalone diodes on the rectifier board"

A) Yes, again, can these be tested in circuit or should I remove them to test?

I will get the rest of this information and post tonight. Thanks.

#17 2 years ago

OK, I will check them this way as soon as I can. Here are some picks I took. I was thinking, when I rebuilt the board, I made sure everything went back the way it came. That said now I'm thinking since the game wasn't working before, if something was connected wrong, it will still be connected wrong... Let me know if you see anything wrong in the picks. Thank you.

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#19 2 years ago

That let of the BR is soldered on the top side. This board is a mess and the pad on this side came off. I checked for continuity with my meeter.
As for the other readings, they are not what you suggested. When I test the BR's I'm getting 620 o each except for # 2 (in the middle) I get nothing on this when I check it with me meeter. So maybe this BR is blow. Also, Maybe this board it just crap and I should get a new one? However, I'd like verification that the connections are correct before I connect another board to this one, I'd hate to blow another one up. Thanks for the help.

2017-09-29 17.2cold (resized).jpg

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Cool, just checking.
As far as I can tell, the wiring looks OK.

Can you elaborate what you mean by "# 2 (in the middle)"?
You're measuring across the two bottom pins, two top pins, two right pins and two left pins right?
How about the four standalone diodes (CR1, CR2, CR3 and CR4) which are for the 230V display circuit - how did these diodes measure?

Sorry for not replying sooner, I've been sick all week.

To elaborate, BR2 tests bad. No matter how I check with the meter, I get no readings, seems completely open. The other two check out fine. I also rechecked the diodes like you suggested and they check open as well. I must have blown something, thats why my test points are not showing proper voltage. I could bet a new BR and new diodes but I'm worried I'll blow them again since something must not be right. Have you had a chance to look closer at my wiring? I see I can get a new (modern) rectifier, should I do that instead of just the parts? Your thoughts? Thanks.

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Just throwing this out there as a "grasping at straws" check:
Have you tried grounding one of the feature lamp tabs to the ground braid in the cabinet?
I mention this because I had an F2K where EVERY feature lamp was blown. I wasted some time troubleshooting a problem that didn't exist. So without your displays working, but the MPU looking like it booted fully, check the feature lamps and make sure the bulbs are good.

I haven't tried that but I did check several of the lamps to make sure they were good. All but 3 or 4 checked bad. (tested with meeter) Thanks for the suggestion.

#25 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Hope you're feeling much better
.

I mentioned in post #20 the wiring looked OK, but I've just had another look and might have noticed a problem.
The 20 pin J3 connector on the rectifier board should have a grey/blue wire at pin 5 (display high voltage) and a grey wire at pin 12 (43 volt Zero Crossing signal). Hard to tell from your pictures but I think these might be crossed over. The schematic incorrectly lists them both as grey wires.
With everything plugged in and machine OFF, I suggest you do a continuity zero ohm check from point to point to make sure the source and destinations match:
Rectifier board connector J3 pin 5 to the Solenoid Driver Board connector J3 pin 6
Rectifier board connector J3 pin 12 to the MPU board connector J4 pin 15

It's pretty unusual for all diodes in the bridge circuit to be open. Are you sure you're checking them properly (meter set to diode mode)?

Thanks, I am feeling better, first full day back at work. I was pretty sick when I checked those diodes so I will check them again and let you know.

I will also check the wires on those connectors. If those are switched then that might make sense as to why things are not working. I will verify latter and tone them out as you suggested to make sure they are correct. I found a Rectifier board on e-bay for $59, do you think this would work and be worth it? I may decide to repair this one in case I blow it again and then once I know things are working replace it with a new one.

ebay.com link » New Power Supply Rectifier Board For Bally As 2518 18 Stern Ta 100

Thanks.

#27 2 years ago

Thanks! I may get the kit version, save 20 bucks. Need to get the game working first.

#28 2 years ago

I stopped at the local electronics store and picked up some extra diodes but they didn't have the bridge rectifier. Where can I get these online for a good price and buy them in single quantities? Thanks.

#30 2 years ago
#31 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Hope you're feeling much better
.

I mentioned in post #20 the wiring looked ok, but I've just had another look and might have noticed a problem.
The 20 pin J3 connector on the rectifier board should have a grey/blue wire at pin 5 (display high voltage) and a grey wire at pin 12 (43 volt Zero Crossing signal). Hard to tell from your pictures but I think these might be crossed over. The schematic incorrectly lists them both as grey wires.
With everything plugged in and machine OFF, I suggest you do a continuity zero ohm check from point to point to make sure the source and destinations match:
Rectifier board connector J3 pin 5 to the Solenoid Driver Board connector J3 pin 6
Rectifier board connector J3 pin 12 to the MPU board connector J4 pin 15

It's pretty unusual for all diodes in the bridge circuit to be open. Are you sure you're checking them properly (meter set to diode mode)?

I just played 2 complete games on this PIN! WooHoo! Thank you!!!
You were correct about those two wires, there were pined wrong on the J3 connector. I tracked them down and verified with my meeter, then swapped them on the plug. The game didn't boot up right away, I had to disconnect everything and troubleshot but eventually I got it to boot in attract mode.

Once I got into attract mode I tried to start a game but nothing seems to work. Eventually, I disconnected the lights in the back box and the game booted properly. I also had to replace the 1amp fuse under the playfield. Once I got a game started, it played for about 3 minuets and then everything quit on me..... I troubleshooted again and I couldn't get the MPU to boot. I ether got continually flashing LED or it would flash 7 times and then go out. Then when I disconnected the J4 plug at the lamp driver board, the game booted up and I played a couple of full games. If I reconnect, the MPU doesn't boot, just blink continually.

After trying several attempts and checking voltage (the voltage on my Rectifier board are still the same as before, or pretty close to it) I finally got it to boot up with everything connected (except the sound board, if I hook up the ribbon cables the game wont boot at all)
I'm still testing but it seek=ms like it's very unreliable, any suggestions?

Also, there's the sound board, not sure where to begin with that. Replace it, rebuild it? I'm just so glad it finally booted up!!! Thank you SOO Much for ALL of the help!!

#32 2 years ago

UPDATE: So if I leave the game sitting in attract mode for about 15 min, it crashes. Displays go blank, feature lamps stop working and the game wont start. Even after a reboot I can't get it to boot up again. Any ideas what could be causing this? I'm thinking it's still something to do with the rectifier board. I let it sit off for 10 min and then it booted back up???
-Dave

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Can you re-measure the voltages on the rectifier board and also the MPU board and report them all here?
Since the Alltek MPU board was connected to the display high voltage instead of the 43V Zero Crossing signal it might have sustained some damage. Do you have another MPU board you can hook up in the machine to test?
Leave the sound board till very last - since it connects to the MPU boards main bus on J5 you don't want it throwing you in the wrong direction chasing problems.

OK, here are my results:

Rectifier board:
TP 1 - 6.8 vdc
TP 2 - 7.5 vdc
TP3 - 15.8 vdc
TP 3 - 7.0 vac
TP 5 - 49.7 vdc

MPU:
TP 1 - 5.0vdc
TP 2 - 49.7 vdc
TP 3 - ground
TP 4 - 4.9 vdc
TP 5 - 1.5 vdc
TP 6 - 3.9 vdc

Driver Board:
TP 1 - 5.0 vdc
TP 2 - 15.5 vdc
TP 3 - 245.5 vdc
TP 4 - 245.1 vdc
TP 5 - ground

TP 3 and 4 in the driver board are off by quite a bit?
TP 2 on the MPU is also off?
Several TP's on the rectifier board are also still way off as well.

No, I don't have another MPU I can swap out.

Also, since disconnecting the back box GI's makes it reboot properly, I replaced all of the back box lamps with LED's and now it's not crashing? I have had it running in attract and playing for several hours and no more crashing. I know this isn't fixing the problem, just giving you the information.
Thanks again. For all the help.

#36 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

TP3 (245.5V) on the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) is a touch high but in ball park - you'll probably have to rewire the transformer to lower this.
Have you replaced your old plasma displays for new LED displays?
TP4 on the SDB measured too high (should be 190V) and indicates a possible shorted LM317 regulator and/or open/shorted resistor R1/R3 on the Rottendog SDB.
It looks like your multimeter is giving you a false reading on TP2 of the rectifier board - your meter indicated 7.5V, but that supply line downstream measured 245.5V at the SDB which is whereabouts it should be.
TP2 on the MPU board is a touch high, again this is probably due to your transformer needing to be rewired.
In terms of the backbox GI, replacing the lamps with LEDs has put less of a load on that supply rail but as you mentioned this is just masking a problem. There's probably another crossed wire at a connector.
How much AC voltage do you measure across the GI lamps in the backbox?
Then disconnect the backbox GI and measure the AC voltage across the playfield GI lamps (backbox and playfield GI should measure the same).
With the machine OFF, disconnect connector J3 from the rectifier board. Wire terminals 1, 2, 10 and 11 of this connector should go to the backbox GI. Use your multimeter in low resistance ohms mode to check continuity of these four wires at the connector to various points of the backbox GI. If you can't find continuity on one of the wires that'll indicate it's wired in the wrong position of the connector.
Can you provide a picture of the lower part of the transformer where the red and yellow wires connect? Disconnect the mains cable from the wall outlet for your safety - there should be numbers printed above the transformer lugs pictured. These are to adjust for different mains power input.

Thanks for the advice on this. I have not replaced the score displays with LED versions yet but that is the plan. I will check each item you mentioned and get back to you with numbers and picks. I'll also use my other meter to make sure I'm not getting a false reading on TP 2 (rectifier board)
Thank you again!

#37 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

TP3 (245.5V) on the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) is a touch high but in ball park - you'll probably have to rewire the transformer to lower this.
Have you replaced your old plasma displays for new LED displays?
TP4 on the SDB measured too high (should be 190V) and indicates a possible shorted LM317 regulator and/or open/shorted resistor R1/R3 on the Rottendog SDB.
It looks like your multimeter is giving you a false reading on TP2 of the rectifier board - your meter indicated 7.5V, but that supply line downstream measured 245.5V at the SDB which is whereabouts it should be.
TP2 on the MPU board is a touch high, again this is probably due to your transformer needing to be rewired.
In terms of the backbox GI, replacing the lamps with LEDs has put less of a load on that supply rail but as you mentioned this is just masking a problem. There's probably another crossed wire at a connector.
How much AC voltage do you measure across the GI lamps in the backbox?
Then disconnect the backbox GI and measure the AC voltage across the playfield GI lamps (backbox and playfield GI should measure the same).
With the machine OFF, disconnect connector J3 from the rectifier board. Wire terminals 1, 2, 10 and 11 of this connector should go to the backbox GI. Use your multimeter in low resistance ohms mode to check continuity of these four wires at the connector to various points of the backbox GI. If you can't find continuity on one of the wires that'll indicate it's wired in the wrong position of the connector.
Can you provide a picture of the lower part of the transformer where the red and yellow wires connect? Disconnect the mains cable from the wall outlet for your safety - there should be numbers printed above the transformer lugs pictured. These are to adjust for different mains power input.

OK, more information now.....

I'm not sure why but you are correct, my meter was giving me an incorrect reading. I think it has something to do with the fact that I had it on auto range so I changed to to AC and now I am reading 243 vac.

Next, I measured the voltage at the GI in the back box, = 6.87 vac
Then I measured the GI in the playfield = 6.28 vac

Next I tined out the lines coming from J3 on the rectifier board. The all trace out to the connector for the back box GI's.

Here is a pick (couple picks) of the transformer, let me know if they need to be changed or not.

I didn't really test the components on the SBD but the resistors don't look burnt. Should I get some new ones and also a regulator? Thank you.

#39 2 years ago

Sorry, I spaced attaching the picks. Here they are.

Can I check the resistors and the LM317 in circuit?

Thanks.

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#41 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

For the moment, check them in circuit and check them by swapping the red and black meter leads around so you measure both directions. The LM317 should not measure any short across the input and output pins.
If the resistors measure to spec as per the previous email they are probably ok. If either measures higher it's highly suspect. If either measures less resistance, you will need to unsolder one side of the resistor to isolate it out of circuit to measure it properly.
In terms of the Transformer, it looks like it's wired for 115VAC and you probably need to wire it for 120VAC
The pictures linked here shows the lug numbers on the transformer for the input primary side (the lug numbers have faded on your transformer)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/humming-sound-in-old-sterns#post-3787364
Disconnect the main power cable from the wall outlet:
Unsolder the yellow wire from lug #9
Cut the link wire between lugs #9 and #11
Solder a new link wire between lugs #5 and #7
Solder the yellow wire to lug #5
Take care with your work here because this is the mains wiring into the transformer.
The output voltages previously reading high should now be in spec.

OK, I will do all of this tonight. Thank you!

#42 2 years ago

OK, I rewired my transformer (see pick)

Then I remeasured all of my voltages:

Rectifier board:
TP 1 - 5.73 vdc
TP 2 - 231.5 vdc
TP3 - 14.79 vdc
TP 3 - 6.78 vac
TP 5 - 42.14 vdc

SDB:
TP 1 - 4.9 vdc
TP 2 - 15.5 vdc
TP 3 - 228.5 vdc
TP 4 - 236.5 vdc

Then I tested the parts on the SDB:
R1 = 574.4
R2 = 83.0
LM317 = 0.8 across the input and output pins.
Are they all bad?

I out everything back together and the game still boots up and plays. What should I do next? Thank you.

trans-rewire1 (resized).jpg

#44 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

After re-wiring the transformer, the rectifier voltages look better now.
It looks like the LM317 regulator is shorted. Can you unsolder one leg of resistors R1 and R3, and remove fuse F1 from the SDB to isolate LM317 output.
Lift the unsoldered leg of each R1 and R3 out of the PCB so the legs are in free air which will isolate the resistors from the circuit.
Remeasure the resistance between the input and output pins of the LM317.
Remeasure the resistance across the R1 and R3 resistors to get their true value.
Post the results.

OK, I'll do this as soon as I can. Maybe tonight. Thanks.

#45 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

After re-wiring the transformer, the rectifier voltages look better now.
It looks like the LM317 regulator is shorted. Can you unsolder one leg of resistors R1 and R3, and remove fuse F1 from the SDB to isolate LM317 output.
Lift the unsoldered leg of each R1 and R3 out of the PCB so the legs are in free air which will isolate the resistors from the circuit.
Remeasure the resistance between the input and output pins of the LM317.
Remeasure the resistance across the R1 and R3 resistors to get their true value.
Post the results.

OK, I did as you suggested. I pulled one leg out on each resistor. R1 = 584.3ohm and R2 = 83.0ohm, pretty much exactly the same as last night. I also checked the LM317 (with the resistors out of circuit and the fuse was pulled). I'm not 100% sure I am testing it correctly. I have my meter set to ohms. If your looking at it head on, I am placing my black probe on the far left lead and the read probe on the middle one. When I do this I get a reading of 8.28ohm. If I swap them, I get a reading of 7.73ohm. When I put my black probe on the middle and my red probe on the pin to the far right, I get a reading of 0.9ohm. I get this no matter which probe is on the middle pin. So it still seem to me that all three of these components are bad. Am I correct? Thanks.

#47 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Hmm, the readings don't make much sense.
Can you take pictures of R1 and R3 so I can see the colored rings indicating their values (just incase Rottendog changed their spec).
Also any chance of a picture of your meter taking a reading of one of the resistors (so I can see what meter you have and interpret the displayed reading).
Thanks

OK, here are my test results and pictures. I just realized while looking at the picks that I tested the LM317 with the fuse in. I can retest if you think I need to. It was 5am when I was doing this and it's tricky to use the meter and take a pick at the same time. I also included some extra pics to make sure you can see the band colors on the resistors.

Let me know what you think, thank you.

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#50 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Thanks for the pics.
The color bands on resistors R1 and R3 indicate they are 576 ohms and 82.5k ohms respectively, and they're measuring good. The R1 and R3 values listed in the Rottendog schematics of 2.15k and 169k ohms are wrong... The relationship of the values between these two resistors sets the output voltage of the LM317 regulator and the installed values configure the output to 182.5 volts.
Notice on your meter when you were measuring R3 there is a little 'k' next to the ohms symbol on the meters display, that means that resistor is measuring 83.0k ohms (k for kilo). And M for Mega when you measured the left and middle pins of the regulator.
The 3.8 ohms resistance between input and output pins of the LM317 tells me it's faulty.
The "LM317AHV" as spec'ed on this board is rated for a maximum of 57 volts differential between the input pin and output pin.
The regulators output voltage is configured to 182.5 volts as mentioned above.
You previously had 245 volts going into the input of the regulator (when the transformer was wired for 115VAC input) making a differential of 63 volts across the input and output of the regulator which is beyond spec and probably why it died and shorted.
This regulator must be replaced with the AHV version i.e. LM317AHV. Other variants of the LM317 are lower voltage and are not suitable. They are cheap so might be worth grabbing a few of them because your new input voltage to the regulator is 236 volts which is borderline.
Was there any warning documentation with the Rottendog SDB indicating the transformer had to be set to the correct input voltage?

Thanks for all of the information, I really appreciate it. I'll reconnect the resistors and order a new LM317.

I found this at Great Plains, is this the correct one?

Part Number LM317AHVT
IC, Voltage Regulator, Adjustable, 1.5AIC, Voltage Regulator, Adjustable, 1.5A Integrated Circuit, Voltage Regulator, Adjustable, 1.2 to 57.0 Volt, 1.5 Amp Package: TO-220

It has an extra "T" in the number. .60 each, I'll get a couple of them if they are the right ones.

Once I get this sorted out then I can start looking at the sound board. I see they sell a cap kit and new connectors for these, should I go a head and order the parts? Thanks again.

#52 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, that's the right regulator.

The capacitor kit is cheap so grab it. Have a close look at the 34 pin header connector at the top of the MPU board and the sound board. If either looks tarnished/corroded then I would buy the interface cable too, and get some 0.1" pin headers to replace the tarnished ones.
At some point you may consider getting a bunch of 0.1" and 0.156" pin headers and terminals (and housings if needed) in case you have to start repinning other connectors.
If you don't have any, grab a bag of twenty 1N4007 diodes, 3pcs TIP102 transistors, various spare fuses for your game, 2pcs 2N5064 SCRs, 2pcs MCR106-6 SCRs. The Transistors and SCRs drive the solenoids and lamps and might come in handy one day.
.

Just a quick update. All parts are on order and I'll update as soon as they come in and I complete the next steps. (Replacing the LM317 on the SDB)
Thanks.

#53 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, that's the right regulator.

The capacitor kit is cheap so grab it. Have a close look at the 34 pin header connector at the top of the MPU board and the sound board. If either looks tarnished/corroded then I would buy the interface cable too, and get some 0.1" pin headers to replace the tarnished ones.
At some point you may consider getting a bunch of 0.1" and 0.156" pin headers and terminals (and housings if needed) in case you have to start repinning other connectors.
If you don't have any, grab a bag of twenty 1N4007 diodes, 3pcs TIP102 transistors, various spare fuses for your game, 2pcs 2N5064 SCRs, 2pcs MCR106-6 SCRs. The Transistors and SCRs drive the solenoids and lamps and might come in handy one day.
.

OK, finally received the new regulator and got it installed. I tested my voltage again and this is what I am getting:

TP1 - 5v
TP2 - 14.6v
TP3 - 236v
TP4 - 187v

TP3 should be 300v so is that an issue?

Thanks

#55 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

The voltage on TP3 should be where it is now. And after replacing the LM317 on the SDB, TP4 now measures good too
What's the next issue to deal with?

Cool! It's nice to finally have this part of the project working. Now I guess the next thing is getting the sound to work. I have a SB300 kit on the way and new cables. The pins look OK but I'll replace them if needed. I'm a little worried about hooking it up since when I did the game doesn't boot. Could the caps cause this? Thanks

#58 2 years ago

OK, so last night I rebuilt the SB 300 and reconnected it. Unfortunately, I still have the same issue. When I get everything connected the CPU will not boot. i.e. the LED doesn't blink, it just stays on solid. If I leave the #2 cable disconnected from the CPU board, it will boot up but still won't get any sound. (see picks) Does it look like everything is pinned and connected properly? Thank you.

2017-10-24 20.20.01 (resized).jpg

2017-10-24 20.19.26 (resized).jpg

#60 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Ribbon cables look wrong....but I don't have the full picture of them connecting to the sound board

Here is a better pic.

2017-10-24 20.19.18 (resized).jpg

2017-10-24 20.19.22 (resized).jpg

#62 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Here is mine when I had it. PIN 1 on both boards is on the right hand side of the headers

SO it looks like mine are reversed? I will try swapping them tonight and see what happens. Thanks.

#63 2 years ago

I swapped the ribbon connectors but I still have the same issue. No sound, no boot???? Any suggestions? Thank you.

#65 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Are you sure that pin1 is lining up with pin 1 on both bards? The ribbon cables have to do do 1/2 a twist to align.

I will check and verify tonight, or the first chance I get. Thank you.

#66 2 years ago

And we now have sound!!!!! Thank you so very much for all of the help guy's!!! I really appreciate it.

#67 2 years ago

While I'm waiting on parts, I decided to pull the game apart and get back to working on the body. Should look really nice once I'm done.

2017-10-28 19.24.18 (resized).jpg

2017-10-28 19.24.25 (resized).jpg

2017-10-28 19.24.21 (resized).jpg

2017-10-28 19.24.32 (resized).jpg

2017-10-30 07.52.46 (resized).jpg

2017-10-30 07.53.11 (resized).jpg

#70 2 years ago

Wow, that Galaxy look awesome, great job!

I will not be putting that much into this one. It's a rush job and it's for my brother in law. Not that he's not worth it, I just don't have the time and patience to go that far. This is a quick and basic "make the game work" sort of job. It will look better than it did when he got it but far from showroom quality.

I'll be spending a lot of time on it this weekend, I'll post more pics as I make progress.

2 weeks later
#71 2 years ago

Hey guys, I need some more help on this Galaxy....
Si I've been slowly working on getting the game back together and now for some reason it has developed a new issue. Every time the ball triggers the right slingshot, it tilts. i.e. flippers stop working, no score and then when the ball drains everything works again. Any idea what would be causing this? Appreciate the help. Thank you.

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