(Topic ID: 198710)

Help with Stern Galaxy please...


By dbpbandit

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 73 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Sinbad
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Galaxy Stern Electronics, 1980

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There are 73 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 2 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

I found this at Great Plains, is this the correct one?
Part Number LM317AHVT

Yes, that's the right regulator.

Quoted from dbpbandit:

Once I get this sorted out then I can start looking at the sound board. I see they sell a cap kit and new connectors for these, should I go a head and order the parts?

The capacitor kit is cheap so grab it. Have a close look at the 34 pin header connector at the top of the MPU board and the sound board. If either looks tarnished/corroded then I would buy the interface cable too, and get some 0.1" pin headers to replace the tarnished ones.

At some point you may consider getting a bunch of 0.1" and 0.156" pin headers and terminals (and housings if needed) in case you have to start repinning other connectors.

If you don't have any, grab a bag of twenty 1N4007 diodes, 3pcs TIP102 transistors, various spare fuses for your game, 2pcs 2N5064 SCRs, 2pcs MCR106-6 SCRs. The Transistors and SCRs drive the solenoids and lamps and might come in handy one day.
.

#52 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, that's the right regulator.

The capacitor kit is cheap so grab it. Have a close look at the 34 pin header connector at the top of the MPU board and the sound board. If either looks tarnished/corroded then I would buy the interface cable too, and get some 0.1" pin headers to replace the tarnished ones.
At some point you may consider getting a bunch of 0.1" and 0.156" pin headers and terminals (and housings if needed) in case you have to start repinning other connectors.
If you don't have any, grab a bag of twenty 1N4007 diodes, 3pcs TIP102 transistors, various spare fuses for your game, 2pcs 2N5064 SCRs, 2pcs MCR106-6 SCRs. The Transistors and SCRs drive the solenoids and lamps and might come in handy one day.
.

Just a quick update. All parts are on order and I'll update as soon as they come in and I complete the next steps. (Replacing the LM317 on the SDB)
Thanks.

#53 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, that's the right regulator.

The capacitor kit is cheap so grab it. Have a close look at the 34 pin header connector at the top of the MPU board and the sound board. If either looks tarnished/corroded then I would buy the interface cable too, and get some 0.1" pin headers to replace the tarnished ones.
At some point you may consider getting a bunch of 0.1" and 0.156" pin headers and terminals (and housings if needed) in case you have to start repinning other connectors.
If you don't have any, grab a bag of twenty 1N4007 diodes, 3pcs TIP102 transistors, various spare fuses for your game, 2pcs 2N5064 SCRs, 2pcs MCR106-6 SCRs. The Transistors and SCRs drive the solenoids and lamps and might come in handy one day.
.

OK, finally received the new regulator and got it installed. I tested my voltage again and this is what I am getting:

TP1 - 5v
TP2 - 14.6v
TP3 - 236v
TP4 - 187v

TP3 should be 300v so is that an issue?

Thanks

#54 2 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

TP3 should be 300v so is that an issue?

The voltage on TP3 should be where it is now. And after replacing the LM317 on the SDB, TP4 now measures good too

What's the next issue to deal with?

#55 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

The voltage on TP3 should be where it is now. And after replacing the LM317 on the SDB, TP4 now measures good too
What's the next issue to deal with?

Cool! It's nice to finally have this part of the project working. Now I guess the next thing is getting the sound to work. I have a SB300 kit on the way and new cables. The pins look OK but I'll replace them if needed. I'm a little worried about hooking it up since when I did the game doesn't boot. Could the caps cause this? Thanks

#56 2 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

I have a SB300 kit on the way and new cables... I'm a little worried about hooking it up since when I did the game doesn't boot. Could the caps cause this?

The game not starting was unlikely to be the SB300 capacitors.

When you're ready, hook up the SB300 by the 34 wire cable. Leave the lower J2 (which provides 12V power for the amplifier chip) and J3 (speaker and volume control) connectors both disconnected. If the game powers up ok a few times, then connect these two lower connectors (J2 and J3).

#58 2 years ago

OK, so last night I rebuilt the SB 300 and reconnected it. Unfortunately, I still have the same issue. When I get everything connected the CPU will not boot. i.e. the LED doesn't blink, it just stays on solid. If I leave the #2 cable disconnected from the CPU board, it will boot up but still won't get any sound. (see picks) Does it look like everything is pinned and connected properly? Thank you.

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#59 2 years ago

Ribbon cables look wrong....but I don't have the full picture of them connecting to the sound board

#60 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Ribbon cables look wrong....but I don't have the full picture of them connecting to the sound board

Here is a better pic.

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#61 2 years ago

Here is mine when I had it. PIN 1 on both boards is on the right hand side of the headers

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#62 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Here is mine when I had it. PIN 1 on both boards is on the right hand side of the headers

SO it looks like mine are reversed? I will try swapping them tonight and see what happens. Thanks.

#63 2 years ago

I swapped the ribbon connectors but I still have the same issue. No sound, no boot???? Any suggestions? Thank you.

#64 2 years ago

Are you sure that pin1 is lining up with pin 1 on both bards? The ribbon cables have to do a 1/2 twist to align.

#65 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Are you sure that pin1 is lining up with pin 1 on both bards? The ribbon cables have to do do 1/2 a twist to align.

I will check and verify tonight, or the first chance I get. Thank you.

#66 2 years ago

And we now have sound!!!!! Thank you so very much for all of the help guy's!!! I really appreciate it.

#67 2 years ago

While I'm waiting on parts, I decided to pull the game apart and get back to working on the body. Should look really nice once I'm done.

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#68 2 years ago

I went through the same thing a few years back, getting it running just wasnt enough - i had to completely restore it...
Restored cabinet, repaired and clear coated playfield, new backglass (BGRESTO) etc etc....

Nothing more rewarding, keep up the good work

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#69 2 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

While I'm waiting on parts, I decided to pull the game apart and get back to working on the body. Should look really nice once I'm done.

Not pulling siderails off for re-paint? You really should....

#70 2 years ago

Wow, that Galaxy look awesome, great job!

I will not be putting that much into this one. It's a rush job and it's for my brother in law. Not that he's not worth it, I just don't have the time and patience to go that far. This is a quick and basic "make the game work" sort of job. It will look better than it did when he got it but far from showroom quality.

I'll be spending a lot of time on it this weekend, I'll post more pics as I make progress.

2 weeks later
#71 2 years ago

Hey guys, I need some more help on this Galaxy....
Si I've been slowly working on getting the game back together and now for some reason it has developed a new issue. Every time the ball triggers the right slingshot, it tilts. i.e. flippers stop working, no score and then when the ball drains everything works again. Any idea what would be causing this? Appreciate the help. Thank you.

#72 2 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

Hey guys, I need some more help on this Galaxy....
Si I've been slowly working on getting the game back together and now for some reason it has developed a new issue. Every time the ball triggers the right slingshot, it tilts. i.e. flippers stop working, no score and then when the ball drains everything works again. Any idea what would be causing this? Appreciate the help. Thank you.

Are any of the drop targets down when this happens? Check the coin switches for diodes shorted to the door or coin mech.

#73 2 years ago

or any diodes on the stand up targets shorting with the pop bumper mechanisms

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