Beck, if you haven't you should download the manual and any schematics that are available. Also google any pictures you can find, you might find the picture that shows what you are looking for...sounds like you have some great people giving you some advice.

The credit wheel is what allows the start button to work. I can't remember which switch it is on the credit unit but you can reset it to no credits, bend a leaf to make a switch contact n/c instead of n/o and it makes the machine essentially freeplay.

The credit unit zero position switch is the one you were talking about - the switch on the credit unit where you adjust to make it normally closed putting the machine in free play mode.

The IND-A score motor switch would be the switches on the end of the score motor with five stacks of switches. You'd want to look at the bottom of the stack of switches to find the switch in the credit button circuit...

Hi Beck
I refer to ipdb-manual-page-4 (ori-2). When I (hopefully: "When we") talk about Jones-Plugs I / We mean a goodie - two rows (lets say left row has 10 sockets and right row has 10 sockets - and there are 2 times 10 plugs in the holding bakelite). This is for to connect the playfield to the Backbox etc. Each of these 20 plugs is inserted into a socket. There is a "metal stop" mounted on the socket. The bakelite plate with the plugs is put in so the many wires on the bakelite are AWAY from the metal stop. Always look from the side - do the plugs sit IN the sockets - Or did You push them with an offset - this could / can cause very strange strange behaviour.

The manufacturers wanted to save money and used sockets (2 times 6) together with a bakelite holder having less (2 times 2) plugs --- these are Adjustment plugs. You can insert in various positions - You adjust to your needs, look manual-page-4 -> the 25-cent Adj.-Plug - inserted "on top" equals "6 games per quarter" - inserted a row below -> "5 games per quarter" etc. .
They used a 2 times 3 socket and a 1 times 3 bakelite holding plate - for to adjust: You plug-in to the left or You plug-in to the right. Look at manual-page-4 and -5 --- all these are Adjustment-Plugs.

Ok, another thing: Am I the only one who is interested in "What happens, when You manually actuate the armature of the Coin-RELAY (pushing / pressing the anchor-plate - simulating the coil gets magnetic and pulls) ? Greetings Rolf

Hi Beck
Yes - but be careful NOT to touch solder-lugs.
When the pin runs / functions 100%: You push the Credit-Button -> Credit-Relay pulls-in -> the Coin-Relay gets current -> Coin-Relay pulls-in and stays pulling for let the Reset-Relay pull-in.

Your pin does not do a thing when You push the Credit-Button -> What happens when we simulate "Coin-Relay gets current and pulls-in" ? --- YOU push the anchor-plate - simulating "anchor-plate is pulled-in". Greetings Rolf

Hi Beck
Yes - but be careful NOT to touch solder-lugs. Unplug the main power chord. Get a ruler from school (wooden or plastic ruler - NOT metal) practice a bit on the second-last relay -> when you have praxis -> plug-in -> turn-on and gently push with the ruler. Greetings Rolf

Hi Beck
fine - the "pulling" Coin-Relay lets the Score-Motor run (we need the Score-Motor for pulsing some relays).
Unplug the main power chord. Can You manually put some points on the Score-Drums of player-1 ? I like to have the pin to do some work ...

Look at the Game-Over-Relay - the first relay sitting behind the transformer. The very first coil (behind the transformer) on that "Interlock-Relay, two coils mounted on the relay" - push its anchor-plate outwards towards (direction) "right" (maybe it is already) - the nylon stuff (milky white) moves towards the player (or is already moved): This is position "Game-Over".
Plug-in, turn-on -> actuate the Coin-Relay -> Score-Motor runs -> questions: Do the Score-Drums reset ? Does the Reset-Relay pull-in (the third-last behind the transformer) ? Do 1-2-Reset-Relay and 3-4-Reset-Relay pull-in and let go etc. (Well, hard to see - these two relays sit in the Backbox) ? Greetings Rolf

Beck,
Can you construct a simple 24 volt tester by soldering two 12v automotive brake lights in series on long (3') leads... With an alligator clip on the end of the leads?

If you can make the tester then we can go through this repair step by step with photos.
I will also need to know if you understand basic circuitry concepts. How things in general are wired. A table lamp for example. No insult intended- most people in general don't understand it.

Thanks Beck.
No problem. I'll try to have some time and post some basic concepts that might be helpful this evening. A EM pinball has some complex circuitry, might be a bit of a learning curve. Don't be discouraged, we'll see if we can slog through the how's and why's and get you through it.
Please let me know when you have your tester built.
Can you solder?

If you can take about 5 minutes to watch this video describing stepper units. It's not my video but quite excellent:

Steppers are notorious for being neglected over the years/decades. The main trouble with them will be the old lubricants which have fossilized and turned to glue, gumming it up. A gummed up stepper will not step up or down properly. The fix is to disassemble the stepper, clean out the old lubrication and apply new lubricant. As a general rule, only metal to metal rotating parts should have lubrication. No nylon parts or (especially) solenoid plungers get any lubrication at all. Leave those parts dry.

Once properly serviced, a stepper will be very reliable and only require periodic light maintenance.

Me? Like most people hate working on old nasty crappy looking dirty things. Many of us polish stepper parts while they are apart and take a lot of pride how they look when done.

I'd bet my bottom dollar all the steppers in your Space Mission will need to be disassembled, cleaned, re-lubed, reassembled and (if needed) adjusted.
The ones dealing directly with the reset sequence are all 16 score reels and the bonus stepper, located under the playfield.

Score reels are pretty easy but 16 of them are a PIA. If I were to only disassemble them, replace lubrication, reassembly and switch adjustment then I'm looking at about 8 hours of work. But I like to clean frames and other parts so I take a lot more time.

My general score reel work flow is:
1. Overall inspection for burned coils or anything obviously wrong. If parts are needed I call Steve at Pinball Resource and order right away. The 10's and 100's reel on player 1 always get the most workout so I pay particular attention to those.
-->I don't want to do 16 reels again anytime soon so I always order new solenoid sleeves from PBR before I begin.

I'd also order a point adjustment tool and point file right off the bat before you begin.

2. I take TONS of photos of the score reel solder connections from many angles. Closeups, mainly. That is for references when wires fall off due to cold solder joints.
3. I work on 1 score reel at a time. I carefully slide it out of its bay and gently lay it down circuit side up being careful not to put undue stress on the wires/connections.
4. Disassembly. More photos as I go. I try to keep the switch stack together, and tape around the switch stacks to keep them together while they are dismounted from the frame.
5. I clean all the various parts. Old lube removed, parts polished. I wash the plastic reels themselves in a sink with a toothbrush and water with a bit of dishwashing soap mixed in. Being extremely careful NOT to touch any of the numbers with my fingers, brush or wipe. I shake the water off and follow up with a compressed air blast, again avoiding contact with the numbers.
6. I inspect the numbers on the plastic reel and carefully touch-up defects with a black permanent Sharpie pen.
7. Some reels have PC boards with contacts. I clean those PC contact pads using a rag and alcohol.
8. I reassemble using as little lube as possible. I use white lithium grease where necessary and others use "SuperLube".
Every score reel gets a new solenoid sleeve.
9. Switch adjustment. **It is critical this is set properly** see the animation I posted for reference. If the actuator wire/arm is not moving the switches properly then that is usually due to improper switch blade tension acting upon the arm. It's a careful balance between the switch blade tension against the return arm spring. It's not that difficult or rocket science but knowing that pressure balance exists can prevent some confusion and malfunctions. If you find you need adjustment with that balance, adjust the effecting switch blade not the arm's return spring. You'll be expert after doing 16 reels.
Be sure the switch stacks are snugged down (Not loose) before performing adjustments.

Instead of stressing behind the machine, I opt to remove the entire back box insert which everything is mounted to. This also relives much of the stress on the harness and solder joints.
You can observe a number of screws around the insert perimeter to remove it.
Below is a photo of some of the mounting screws (Circled in red)
IMG_4444.JPG

Once the insert is out then I place it component side up on a table etc and it is so much easier to work on. I use that opportunity to service all the components on that board, and to clean the "oldness" out of it.

An alternative to removing the insert is to just place the head somewhere glass side down. But you'll always be leaning over it and reaching in. Too much stress for me!

In your case, as a pinball noobe I would limit disassembling to only the 16 score reels and the player unit (The large stepper with a zillion contact rivets). I'd also -inspect- the other items such as relays, contacts etc.

Regarding the relays (etc) on the board, their switch blades should be already properly adjusted unless somebody has "messed" with them. Initially, I usually tear off a piece of copy paper and fold it over itself about 4 times into a strip about 1/8 X 3" long and get it wet with rubbing alcohol and gently run it over the switch blade contacts. I do it with the machine unplugged to prevent spark/flame.
Some switches may require a more aggressive cleaning/filing but the paper and alcohol clears up 90% of dirty contact troubles.

My first thought when I viewed your initial video was the score reel switches are not operating properly, among other things.

Score reels, along with the bonus unit -must- operate properly and reliably for any hope of reliable resets.

Here's some circuit basics:

Example A only consists of a light bulb and battery, no connection so the bulb is dark.
Example B shows only one connection to the bulb. There is no path for the electricity so the bulb is still dark.
Example C adds the second half of the circuit. The bulb lights. Every circuit needs both sides for current to flow.
Example D shows a basic "make" switch. If you press the orange button down it will mash the switch blades together and provide a circuit to light the bulb. Release the button and the blades separate causing the bulb to go out.
Example E shows a "Break" switch. This time pressing the orange button down cause the blades to separate, extinguishing the bulb, otherwise it is on.
Ckt_Basics_(resized).png

The bulb can represent a light, a solenoid, a relay coil or a motor.

Here are some common switch types as they appear on your schematic:
Switch_types_(resized).png

With a "Make Break" switch, pressing the button "Makes" one side of the connection and "Breaks" the other.
With the "Shorted" switch all 3 blades short together when the button is pushed.

Switches can be stacked and actuated in so many diverse configurations as you find them in the machine but they almost always follow those basic types.

The example below shows a simple make-break circuit.
Changing the state of switch A will illuminate the top bulb. Releasing it will extinguish it.
Changing the state both switches A and B will make the bottom bulb light. Then, if you keep switch A changed and then make switch B normal then the bottom bulb will go out and the top bulb will go on:
Make_Break_Ckt_(resized).png

Please let me know if you understand what I outlined.

Great effort in the your post Steve.

I've been asked by someone to create a new thread, a noobe circuit basics thread. I might open one tonight and link this thread.
Beck seems to be pretty anxious to learn and get his pin working properly. A good attitude.
It's good to know the effort is appreciated.
Thanks!

Beck if you have mechanical aptitude, that you can disassemble something and put it back correctly again then you shouldn't have any problems with rebuilding steppers. The credit unit and the score reels will need to be gone through based on observations and your information. Also the player unit by association.

No problem with taking your time. Life happens.

As a new owner of an old Bally Wizard that didn't power up when I took delivery, to today where it plays with a only a couple of minor problems. I can tell you from my experience, which is limited to this one machine that restoring and repairing all the stepper units was critical to making the machine play again. In each case all the contacts were dirty and not making clean connections as the arms would sweep across the contacts. Once they were repaired and adjusted the pinball played like it was new. All the repairs after that were relay adjustments. Good luck.

Beck-The job of the score reel switches is to let the machine know the position of the reel in perspective as viewed through the glass. The switches will be in one position for digits 1-8, a different position for 9 and different again at zero. They -must- operate properly, see the score reel animation I made on page 1 of this thread. Cycle the score reel around using your finger on the coil plunger and watch the operation of the switches.

You said you are following my previous simple circuits....see if you can do the same with the next set.
They are series and parallel circuits. If you hope to be able to repair your machine then you must understand the concept.
SERIES_PARALLEL_(resized).png
Take a look at the (top) series circuit. You can observe the light will not illuminate unless switches A,B,C,D and E are all closed. When I am studying a schematic I think of switches in series as "AND" switches. "This switch, -and- that switch -and- that switch need to close" in order for the device to operate. The device being a light, coil or motor.

Now consider the two (middle) parallel circuits. Both left and right circuits are wired the same, they are only drawn differently. You can see that closing A -or- B -or- C will cause the light to illuminate. I think of switches placed in parallel as "OR" switches.

Getting a bit more complicated, see the bottom series-parallel circuit. That combines both types.
You can see that in order for the light to illuminate, switches A -and- B.... and C -or- D -or- E must be closed.

Series-parallel circuits are all over your machine.
If you can grasp it then I'll keep going.

Beck, just to let you know I've moved the circuit concepts here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-pinball-circuits-basics-to-not-so-basic

Regarding your reel switches- Frankly, it's quite apparent they need to be serviced. Score reel switches are usually the last thing to do in that process. If you take the time to set your switches now you may be spinning your wheels with dirty malfunctioning reels.

Hi Beck +
I refer to post-78, JPG. It is always difficult to to be 100% sure "I see what is there". I made JPG showing the 10-point-Scroe-Drum of player-1 in position "player does see position 8".
Grumble, my JPG is also not clear -> I put red numbers on the JPG - lets have a look at cabaret: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-startup/page/2#post-3132545 -> Manual -> page-15 (ori-13) -> down to "Switch adjustment" -> middle drawing "at 1st to 8th ..." -> My red-3 and red-6 are not in the page ( simple fishpapers for insulating). Red-1 and red-2 is the top switch, red-4 and red-5 is the middle switch, red-7 and red-8 is the bottom switch (red-9 and red-10 is the EOS-Switch to open when the moving plunger reaches "end of travel").
Lets forget for the moment (we have resetting problems - we do not have problems when making points) - lets forget red-7 and red-8.

The Reset-Relay in the cabinet pulls constantly and lets the Score-Motor run -> SCM pulses switches -> 1-2-Reset-Relay and 3-4-Reset-Relay (in the backbox near the Score-Drums) are pulsed and by beeing pulsed: closes switches (and open and close ...) -> electricity is fired to all coils on the score-drums -> they pull and let go -> drum is stepped towards position-zero. Reching position-zero "red-4 and red-5" open: "I am Score-Drum-XY - I have reached position-zero - I DO NOT WANT SOME MORE SHOTS OF ELECTRICITY - I am happily at position-zero".

Reaching position-zero: Red-1 and red-2 must also open - Score-Drum-xy reports to the "brain of the pin": "I am Score-Drum-XY - I am at position-zero - I don't mind if YOU BRAIN stop the resetting".
And when ALL 16 Score-Drums report the same (hey brain ...) -> The Reset-Relay in the cabinet lets go -> Score-Motor stops -> the 1-2- and 3-4-Reset-Relays are no longer pulsed - and the Score-Drums are no longer pulsed.

Beck, look at many Score-Drums manually step them forward - look at the moving of red-1 and red-2 / moving of red-4 and red-5 - adjust so the ALL open when doing the step "pos-9 -> pos-Zero".
(((Maybe I see in JPG, post-78 a faulty mounted red-1 red-2 (?) ))). Greetings Rolf

001_(resized).JPG

This thread (SteveFury - em-pinball-circuits-basics-to-not-so-basic) is now a stick in the EM section.