Does the Outhole relay activate when this happens?

Sounds like the reset sequence hasn't finished.
Is the Bonus unit reset to zero?

You may have to clean this switch if it does.

found the schematic here
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2254/Williams_1976_Space_Odyssey_Schematic_Diagram_continuous.pdf

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If the lock relay isn’t working it’s normally closed switch will keep power applied to the game over relay trip coil , not allowing the machine to reset.
Open gap of switch to test.

The lock relay should stay on as long as there is power.
If the main fuse 15 amp for the 24v power isn't blow.
If other coils are working, it is not the fuse.

I suspect your lock coil needs to be replaced or something in impending the coil from staying pulled. (not power, but something physical.)

Can you post a pick of the lock relay and coil.

If the lock relay isn't pulling the game over relay Trip will fire. and put the game in a game over state.

You could test this by putting a piece of paper between the two contacts.

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That switch isn't closed

For a switch to work 3 things are necessary:
1) When open, there should be a small space between the contact points (duh)
2) When closing, the long blade's contact point should push the short blade's contact point enough to move the short blade
3) The contact points should be clean, which they usually will be if #2 is happening

The swinging target motor works only off of 1 switch on the game over latch/trip relay. That’s where I’d be looking first. Check the mechanical operation of latching along with checking it’s switches and switch gaps. Clean and adjust switches if needed.

if the ball hasn't kicked over to the shooter, the game probably hasn't finished the reset sequence.

first thing I'd do is manually set all the score reels to non-zero and reset the game. You need them to all go to zero.

when that happens the reset relay will lose power, the outhole relay will power, the ball release will send the ball to the shooter, and a bunch of stuff on the playfield will work.

if the reels are all zero but you don't get a ball, look and see if the reset relay is still powered.

a big hint that the reset hasn't completed is if the score motor is still running.

The last 2 two bladed switches are gapped too far and are dirty. Unplug machine to clean switches ( one of the switches is 120v for the swinging target motor), adjust short blades for a closer gap and have overtravel when closed in latched position.

there's three switches on most score reels.

1] 9th position switch

used to increment the next higher reel when a reel goes from 9->0. Not important for reset.

2] zero break.

these switches are on the schem around E10 in series with score reset relay switches. They stop the reels incrementing during reset when the reel reaches zero. One blade of the switch on each reel is connected directly to the reel solenoid coil, so you don't need to bother looking at wire colors to see which one it is.

3] zero position switches

these are all connected in parallel across all the reels. Each reel has one and the blades have yellow and blu/brn wires. They are at schem C4 and are shown as one symbol labeled "(8) drum unit zero pos.sws.".

it's the zero position switch you really care about. If a zero break switch didn't work, the usual result is a reel will reset to 1 because an extra pulse snuck thru before the score reset relay switch opened.

after the reels have reset, if the game is just sitting there with the score motor running lift the playfield and look if the reset relay is still powered. If it is, you need to check all the reel zero position switches.

manually tripping the game over relay when the reset relay or some other relays are powered doesn't really tell you anything unless you carefully check the schematic and determine what SHOULD happen. You are doing something the game normally would never do, so the results can be nonsense.

that's a religious can of worms, but the info here is good:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm

there's some switches on the credit unit and one is an EOS (end-of-stroke) switch where the blades get shoved when the reset solenoid plunger sucks into the coil.

it may be an odd switch that has three blades that don't normally touch each other, but when the reset plunger pulls in they are all mashed together. Got a picture you can post of the switches on the credit unit?

if the credit unit reset coil is still firing when there's no credits, the EOS switch is not adjusted right. If the credit unit reset coil doesn't power when the credit unit is zero, is the credit button switch stuck closed?

if "money panel" = the front door on the cabinet, does the buzzing coil have white and B-R-G wires on it? If yes, that's the coin lockout coil and they will eventually buzz due to wear on the coil top and armature plate.

the lock relay does the same thing because it's held powered almost all the time.

post a pic of what's buzzing to confirm if you like.

The last cam is the impulse cam. The top switch in the stack, the long blade needs to be adjusted downward so the switch is closed in the cam low position.

The last cam on the right. The top switch. Do you see how the white plastic lifters almost touch each other. File clean switch and adjust long blade for proper operation.

the score reset relay could be in the head. The coil would have black and black-blue wires on it (but see stuff about jumper wires below).

however, it's not really the relay you care about. It's job is to make pulses to reset the score reels, and that is working.

the reset relay is probably on the bottom board in the cabinet. That's the one you want to see if it's powered if the game isn't completing reset.

don't worry about the swinging target ... or anything else really ... until you get the game to reset and the ball to kick over to the shooter.

the buzzing coil on the coin door is the coin lockout relay. What to do about it depends on whether you want the game to use coins or if you are planning on making it free play (replay button works even when no credits).

the switches in your credit unit pic are "pin" switches that operate by the peg sticking out of the ratchet/gear. Can you take a pic from further back of the whole unit including wiring to various pieces?

the black wires on the outhole relay switches are ok. Those are jumper wires. The yellow power wire goes to multiple switches on the outhole relay, so to make manufacturing easier they use the jumpers which can be soldered onto the relay before it's installed in the game. When you see those plastic coated jumper wires, they should be considered to be the color of the game wire they attach to.

e.g. the gray jumper going to the outhole relay coil is the same as the black-blue wire that is on the switch

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#free

looks like someone replaced your score reset relay coil by replacing the entire metal frame, so you got the wrong label on it. It's also the wrong coil part number, but it'll work.

the reset relay won't power unless the game over relay has tripped, then it should power and stay powered when the coin relay powers until the score reels are zeroed.

the switch on the lock relay is closed when the lock relay is unpowered, so when you first turn on the game the game over relay should trip at the same time the lock relay is powering. It's a race, but the game over trip coil is slightly higher power and should win every time.

the lock relay stays powered forever, so you need to either turn the power off/on, manually trip the game over relay, or the ball count unit needs to be stepped up and the zero switch closed (red arrow below) for the reset relay to work.

maybe I misunderstand the problem ... is the game over relay tripping during the reset process?

if the lock relay is not powering and staying powered when you turn on the game or the switch on it isn't opening, that will cause the game over relay to trip (daveh said that in post #7)

if it's not the lock relay/switch, then the problem is likely the ball count unit isn't resetting all the way or the zero switch on it is stuck closed. You can verify by sticking a piece of paper between the switch contacts on the coin relay with the yellow and blu-or wires. Looks like the center switch on the stack has those wires.

you'll probably want to clean off the traces on the ball count unit. A green scrub pad and alcohol works. Remove the black stuff. Most people put a thin smear of lube on the traces which helps the wipers reset when the reset plunger is pulled into the coil. What lube to use is preference, but it can't be tacky or it will make the wipers stall. Don't use standard WD-40 as a lube ... anywhere.

you should test all stepper units by manually stepping and resetting them to make sure the wipers whizz back to reset.