(Topic ID: 53154)

Help with 'Speakeasy' (updated)


By dbpbandit

6 years ago



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  • 53 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by dbpbandit
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 6 years ago

The game boots up and plays, sort of. So far I've rebuilt the voltage regulator/driver board, re-flowed all of the connections and fixed several little issues. All of the GI's are working but none of the playfield lights are working, all of the inserts are dark. I have figured out the the 1A fuse under the playfield blows as soon as you turn the game on. I have a dead short somewhere in that circuit but if I unplug the solenoid expander board under the playfield the short goes away. The game no longer plays but the short is gone. I ordered one of the newly re-designed Solenoid Expander boards from Marco thinking that would fix it but when I install that new unit I have the same issue, no lights, no spinning roulette wheel and a blown fuse. I don't see any obvious shorts anywhere and now I'm not certain that I got the right solenoid expander board. It lists this game but on the instructions it states that if your original has the jumper than you need to get the B version, my old one does have this jumper. (see the pic) However, since I got the game non-working I have no idea if this is the right one or not.

Can someone please let me know if I'm missing something? Thanks.

expboard1.jpg

#2 6 years ago

Let me look under the PF I have and see what it has.

#3 6 years ago

Thanks. I appreciate it.

#4 6 years ago

No jumper on the expander on my PF. Assuming that there was only one expander.

#5 6 years ago

Don't know about that redesign board.

But i think that relay on the original board is oxidated.
I replaced mine with this : http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LY2-0-DC48

Not so hard to replace if you can solder.
Did the trick for me.

(Edit: for future reference searches please chance the title of this thread from Sleepeasy to SpeakEasy
All tough i understand it's a sleey one for you )

#6 6 years ago

"(Edit: for future reference searches please chance the title of this thread from Sleepeasy to SpeakEasy All tough i understand it's a sleey one for you )"

Thanks, and DOH!!!

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from Patofnaud:

No jumper on the expander on my PF. Assuming that there was only one expander.

Thanks, for checking. I wonder if I just remove this jumper on mine if that will fix the issue? Maybe someone just out in the wrong one?

#8 6 years ago

Looking at the prints for the expander:

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2270/Bally_1982_Speakeasy_Schematics.pdf

There is no information on if that jumper is supposed to be in or out. But that jumper connects +43VDC (pin 9) to the center tap of the SPDT switch in the relay (pin 4) and pin 4 goes back to the transformer 43VAC. Somehow I think thats a bad thing.

The roulette motor should be using 43VAC off the xformer and that relay should be turning it on and off with a signal from the controlled GI logic.

I'm betting jumper should be out.

#9 6 years ago

Cut the jumper and it will work. It is definitely not supposed to be there. I bought a non working speakeasy and it had the same problem. I think someone years ago probably ordered and put the wrong board with the jumper in it and gave up after it didn't work. CUT THE JUMPER !!!

#10 6 years ago

The SW illumination check to be sure the bridge rectifier is putting out voltage on the rectifier board if it is check pf ground wire then if not the problem check the top left light driver board connector for burned pins.
Also on this machine it is common to have a added second bridge rectifier and/or hack mod for the SW illumination added to this machine to conform with the 555 service bullitin to drop the voltage to prolong the life of the 555 bulbs in the inserts just remove the second bridge and re jumper the cut trace on the rectifier board.

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

The SW illumination check to be sure the bridge rectifier is putting out voltage on the rectifier board if it is check pf ground wire then if not the problem check the top left light driver board connector for burned pins.
Also on this machine it is common to have a added second bridge rectifier and/or hack mod for the SW illumination added to this machine to conform with the 555 service bullitin to drop the voltage to prolong the life of the 555 bulbs in the inserts just remove the second bridge and re jumper the cut trace on the rectifier board.

Thanks for the information but can you elaborate a bit more? I'm not sure what "SW" means?

Thanks

#12 6 years ago

sw = switched lamps / cpu controlled lamps.
gi = general, always on lamps

#13 6 years ago

"sw = switched lamps " that makes more sense now. Thanks, I'll check it out.

-Dave

3 weeks later
#14 6 years ago

UPDATE: Good news, I was able to get the game working, sort of....

Turns out that expander board I purchased will not work on this game, it blows that fuse as soon as I turn the game on. I was able to fix my original expander by replacing that relay with a new one (thanks for the suggestion and the link Thor-NL)

So after replacing the relay and the fuse everything came up and worked. All the lamps work as well as the roulette wheel. However I still have a connection issue somewhere in the head. If I leave the front open the game seems to play fine but when I close it up and put the back-glass on the displays go funky and the game lights/wheel do not work. OR, the game will come on and work, for a while and then locks up. I originally re flowed all of my connections but something may have come lose so I'm going to check them again. I'll also check for a lose connector/crimp, it's got to be something simple at this point.

-Dave

#15 6 years ago

You're in the home stretch now.

With the door open you should be able to flex the harness going to the head and isolate the problem.

#16 6 years ago

Display and feature lamp data leave the MPU on the J1 connector. This connector is potentially flexed when opening and closing the backbox door.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

UPDATE: Good news, .....(thanks for the suggestion and the link Thor-NL)

Glad i could be of help

That relay is some source of trouble in these pins.

For future reference :
Relay, DPDT, 48 Volt, 10 Amp
Replacement for 48 volt Bally solenoid driver relay.

1 month later
#18 6 years ago

Hey guys, I finally got some time to get back to working on this. Previously, I explained how when closing the back box they game would have issues with the dis[lays and then stop working. Well, not I have no displays and the game will not start a game. All of the GL's and other lights work, just no game play and or displays. I'm not sure but when I turn it on the LED on the MPU comes on, then goes out and then blinks two or three more times, then goes out> I think it should blink six or seven times? I'm thinking maybe my MPU might be dying. I tried re-flowing all of the pins at the connectors and I still get the same results. My next step will be replacing the original connectors with new ones but as far as I can tell the original ones look fine. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

#19 6 years ago

The led on the mpu should show a brief flicker, and then 7 flashes.
If you have 2 flashes it means U8 is dead, or its socket is bad.
Does it show signs of battery corrosion?

Perhaps a picture of the lower part of the MPU?

1 week later
#20 6 years ago

OK, Thanks for the tip. I cleaned up the socket and reseated U8 and now I get all seven flashes on the MPU LED. However, after the seven flashes the LED stays on, the score displays flash and flicker and the game will not take a credit or start a game. Suggestions?

Thanks,

-Dave

#21 6 years ago

Strange behaviour. Does it also do this when all connectors (except J4) are disconnected?
What would be normal is that the led stays on very dim.

#22 6 years ago

Yes, with all connectors disconnected (except J4) the LED stays on after the seven flashes.

#23 6 years ago

What do you measure on TP7 with a normal DMM?

And does it have the same behaviour if you swap U10/U11?

#24 6 years ago

When I measure voltage at TP7 I get 3.88VDC (not sure what this should be.

Also, I swapped U10/U11 and I get the same results.

#25 6 years ago

AAARG! I found the info on TP voltages and checked all of them. A couple of them seemed high, but I can only adjust the 5v, so I did and that's dead on now. I also checked all of the socketed chips, cleaned the sockets and the legs of the chips. Now, after all of that, when I power it on I get 8 flashes and the last one stays on. The displays are still acting strange and I'm still not able to start a game.

I'm open to suggestions, thanks.

#26 6 years ago

Did you replace the sockets? scanbe scokets maybe? try a twist test a few times and see if it will boot right..

#27 6 years ago

If the game locks up after the 7th flash, try unplugging the sound card and reboot. If it then works check the isolation power diode CR3 on the sound card... Also Check the solenoid driver board cap C23 is in good condition. There is also a chance the 555 timer chip and/or C17 could be bad on the MPU board.

...from one of the pinwiki mirrors somewhere.

#28 6 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

When I measure voltage at TP7 I get 3.88VDC (not sure what this should be.

Normally this should be 2.8-3V. It is the VMA line, which more or less means the processor is trying to access the roms/rams. 3.88 is way too high.

However I have never experienced a board that flashes and then the led stays lit. It normally does so from the start without flashing at all.

Quoted from dbpbandit:

I cleaned up the socket and reseated U8 and now I get all seven flashes on the MPU LED. However, after the seven flashes the LED stays on

Does reseating the roms/rams make a difference? If so replace the sockets. I would start from U8.
You say you cleaned up the socket at U8. Exactly how did you clean it? Is there corrosion? Cleaning the corrosion with vinegar and replacing the socket for a new one?

And just guessing here: perhaps the game rom U2 needs reseating/socket replacing as well.

1 week later
#29 6 years ago

This thing is quickly becoming a real pain....

In my first, second and third pass on this board, I found a ton of clipped resistors. Yes, someone actually clipped at least twenty+ resistors and diodes on the MPU. I have no idea why someone would do this to a board, makes no sense unless they were just trying to screw it up.

I have cleaned up the previous repair/clean up of battery damage (I used the typical vinegar method) Checked/replaced sockets, cleaned chips, etc, still wont work and it very inconstant. Sometimes I only get three blinks on the LED, sometimes 8, sometimes nothing at all. The only consistent thing is the game still isn't working....

Any chance someone has one of these boards (working) they'd be willing to sell, cheap? I know I can get one of those "ULTIMATE Bally & Stern MPU boards" for about $200 but I'm not sure I really want to put that much into it.

Thanks....

#30 6 years ago

PM sent.

I sell rebuilt MPUs for $100 shipped.

#31 6 years ago

Andrew is the man... His board will work guaranteed.

1 month later
#32 6 years ago

Hey guys, I've hit a wall on this one and I could really use some help please.

I got the new CPU (thanks barakandl) and it's working great, however...

I'm having issues with some of the play-field lamps and now I'm stuck. I tested the lamp driver board (thanks for the tester Half_Life) I had to replace a few of the transistors but even after all of that some of them will not light. Take a look at the pick, I have circled the ones that aren't working. They all appear to be on the same circuit with the same ground. I've checked the connectors, wires and sockets (and the lamps themselves) There were a couple of lose or broken wires at the sockets (fixed now) but I still cant get anything from them.

Am I looking in the wrong place? Is there another circuit somewhere I'm not checking? Any help is appreciated.

Other than this the game looks and plays great. I'm not at all clear on how the extra button on the left is supposed to work or the rules for it. Maybe if the other play-filed lights were working it would make more sense.

Thanks...

se4.jpg se3.jpg
#33 6 years ago

Did you check the Aux lamp driver too?

#34 6 years ago

Are they lighting up when using the tester at the lamp driver board? If so check for 6vdc on the lamp socket side connected to bare wire under the playfield. If there is no +voltage here follow the wire back to the xformer/rectifier assembly.

Good to hear the MPU is working out for you!

Andrew

#35 6 years ago

Yes, I checked the Aux driver and it seems to be fine too.

Yes, the lamp driver tester board shows that all of them are good.

Not sure if I understand this: " If so check for 6vdc on the lamp socket side connected to bare wire under the playfield"

Can you please clarify?

Thanks.

#36 6 years ago

Meter set on volts DC. Black lead on ground (can jam it into the ground braid in the cabinet somewhere) red lead on the lamps that dont work. See if you are missing the +6vdc that powers the lamps. If you are missing the supply voltage, follow the wire back until you figure out where the lack of continuity is.

Basically feature lamps work like this. They are always hot having 6vdc on one side of the lamp. The lamp driver board gives each lamp a path to ground via the SCR turning on and off.

#37 6 years ago

The extra button on the left is a sacrifice button.
You have to make the top-lanes in sequence 5-6-7-8-9, add 2 extra balls
If some lights are out of sequence you can cancel a light at the cost of 25.000 points, at the start of every new ball.

Here is a link to the manual, and the rules are on page 4
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2270/Bally_1982_Speakeasy_Manual.pdf

#38 6 years ago

OK, I get what your suggesting now. I'll give that a try tonight when I get home. Thanks for the detailed explanation.

As for the sacrifice button rules, thanks, I'll give that a try tonight too.

Thanks.

#39 6 years ago

OK, so I got the lights working, it's a little embarrassing but the problem ended up being a 10A fuse under the playfield. I had previously tested this fuse and it checked good but apparently that wasn't good enough. I worked my way back through the circuit, looking for the missing voltage and it lead me to this fuse. As soon as I replaced it with a fresh fuse the problem went away.

The game is working at 100% now. Thanks for all of the help along the way.

One thing I've noticed, since I've been playing it, is that the ball hits those swinging targets really hard across the bar. It seem to hit the bar and bounce back a lot more that it actually goes under and swings the targets up. Has anyone else noticed this? It seems to me like the bar is a little to low? Has anyone figured a way to remedy this?

Thanks again.

#40 6 years ago

Check if the spinningwheel glass/plastic is flush with the playfield.
If it's not it propels up hitting the bar or chrome trimming

#41 6 years ago

Wow didn't realize you were still working on this machine! Grats on finally getting it running!

#42 6 years ago

BTW Congrats on a job well done!!

#43 6 years ago

Thanks. It's been kind-of a low priority project but it's nice to finally have it working. It looks really nice too. I still need to check off a few items but for the most part it is done. Thanks again to everyone here who helped me with it,

#44 6 years ago

Thanks for the tip on the air ball issue (Thor-NL) I pulled the spinning wheel glass, added some new padding and levelled it. No more air balls!

So now I'm down to (i hope) my last issue. The "10" lamp, in that lower section isn't working. Everything on the lamp driver board tests good (checked with the lamp driver board tester) lamp is good, traced the wire all the way back to the back box and checked for connection to the lamp driver board (J1 connector) so it should work. However, there is something not right, with the game on if I use my meeter on the line going to the lamp (at the lamp socket) it shows voltage but it's constant, not cycling on and off like the others (but the lamp isn't lighting) I rigged up a test lamp with a LED (44 lamp). If I connect it to the others the LED flashes on when the other lamp flashes, however on the "10" it stays lit all the time???? Anyone have a suggestion on where I should look next? Thanks.

#45 6 years ago

bump

#46 6 years ago

When i am sure the wiring is good but the lamp is stuck on or never lights, I just replace the SCR.

#47 6 years ago

Even thought it tests good?

OK, so now I need to figure out which one drives that particular lamp. What's the best way to do that?

Schematic?

Thanks

#48 6 years ago

OK, so I'm studying the schematic and according to this the lamp in question is the "10k bonus" but it's on the J2 connector of the "auxiliary" lamp driver. No wonder, I'm looking in the wrong place... Also, my wire tracking skills are way off... I will pull that board out tonight and replace the Q10 and see what happens.

Thanks.

#49 6 years ago

I was able to fix the lamp issue so now the game working 100% ! Thanks again for all the help.

All I have left to do is re-cap the sound board, put on the new leg levellers, touch-up the paint on the cab and install the coin door lock and sticker.

I've learned a lot working on this game and it's a really neat and fun game. However, once I'm done it's going up for sale.

Now I just need to figure out a starting price for it.

Thanks again for all the help, Pinside ROCKS!

#50 6 years ago

Is there a way to set this game to free play?

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