First thing I'd suspect is across or through board continuity.

LTG : )

I'm new to all of this...

TP2 looks like it's ok. The schematic says 230v. TP1 is supposed to be 5.4v

Here's the schematic I got that from.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/249/Stern_1980_Big_Game_Schematics_And_Wiring_Diagrams_Hi_resolution.pdf

And a mistake I've made over and over working on one game? TP4 is AC. Just in case your doing what I did! I kept checking it in dc.

I should of looked at your link first. I see what your saying now.

So the through board continuity means did the solder flow through the hole to the other side of the board? On the BRs it's common for it not to and to have the component side not connected to the BR. If you left room under the BR you can inspect and reach under with you soldering iron to add solder on the topside.

On that particular board -- ALL high current connections are to the bottom of the board, there are no high current connections solely on the top of the board so through holes are never a problem. Majority of connections on top layer are test points, MOV connections, a couple low current connections, one redundant high current connection (GI) plus lots of redundant ground connections.

Don't worry about the HV voltage -- that one has a typical range but in real life, he varies quite widely depending on his load.

The switched lamp voltage, on the other hand, is an issue.
When you power this up - what is connected to J1 and J3?
Particularly J3, pin 6. J1 pins 3, 7 and 9.

With fuse F1 pulled -- can you measure the AC voltage between E9 and E10?

OK -- quick look suggests that the switched lamp output may be shorted.
First thing I would do is narrow things down a bit. Unplug connectors from J1 and J3 to see if this TP1 brings voltages back up.
With fuse F1 pulled -- did you measure directly from E9 to E10 (see circled in pix) with meter in AC setting?

Your wires that connect to E7 and E8 -- you are measuring directly across the GI output winding. That will look like nearly a dead short with an ohm meter.

E9-E10 (resized).jpg

... edited post.
Don't 'stutter' on mouse button when pushing the "Submit post" button.

Hey, just noticed something in photo. Stern Big Game -- his J1 was originally an 8-pin connection. This board provides 9-pins to work with old and new games. For older games such as yours -- the 9th pin should be empty.
Looking at photo -- do you have wires in J1, pins 6, 7 and 8 accidentally shifted by one pin to pins 7, 8 and 9? This would do mean and nasty things to your TP1 votlage and probably buggerer Tp4 as well.

Wire_Error (resized).jpg

Might want to check other wires as well.
J2 -- pin 7 (AC power return) should be white. But if this wasn't connected to AC return already, nothing would work. A stern documentation error in wire color? Might check him to be safe.
On J2 -- I see an orange wire in pin 9. Manual does not show such a wire... but could be another documentation screw up in the Stern Manual. Maybe somebody else with a Stern Big Game can check this one.
Pin 3 connections look good based on this pix.