(Topic ID: 198201)

Help with my Cyclone

By Tomass

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 207 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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There are 207 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 5.
#151 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Are your soldering skills up for these repairs?

I think so but if not there is a place that does board repair in Anchorage.

#152 6 years ago

Remember use the correct tools, take your time, cut components off the board first leaving the leads as long as possible. This way the leads can be gently pulled by pliers when heating the solder one at a time. Clean up any left over solder with desoldering braid coated in flux.

https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-S2K-2-Piece-Shearcutter-Pliers/dp/B001R1UEPW/ref=sr_1_6

This is a good choice. You may try to find a better price tho.

#153 6 years ago

There is a couple more things to test before ordering parts. We can test after work tonight.

#154 6 years ago

When you were testing U-18 and U-20 the outputs on pin 3 were always low. There is a resistor pack on the outputs of the chip to pull the outputs to a high level. If one of the resistors in the pack has cracked it wont pull up the signal to 5 volts. This can make it appear that the chip is bad when it is fine. So you need to test the ohms for the resistor for each of the 2 outputs. You do this by putting one lead on the pin next to the white dot (pin one) the other lead on the pin that needs testing. In this case you will test SR6 pin one to pin two. Also test SR4 pin one to pin two. Both should read 560 ohms. As a reference you can measure pin one to pin 3 or pin one to pin 5. All should be 560 ohms.

#155 6 years ago

Sorry just got home from fishing. So I am testing pin 1 to pin 2 of u18 and u20? And then the other tests

#156 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

In this case you will test SR6 pin one to pin two. Also test SR4 pin one to pin two. Both should read 560 ohms.

These look like this.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#157 6 years ago

Ok, pin1 to pin 2 reads 560 on both sr4 and sr6

#158 6 years ago

Then the chips are still bad, I just didn't want to not check everything possible that could be bad before you order parts.
Shipping on this kind of stuff is more than the parts cost so you don't want make two orders. If it were me I would order one extra 7408 AND chip 6 extra 2n4401 and TIP 102. You should also order 20 1n4007 diodes.

#159 6 years ago

I actually thought you wanted me to order the parts last night. I have 10 tip 102s, (6) 7408 ttl, (10) 2n4401 but only (10) 1n4007 diodes.

#160 6 years ago

Here is the listing for the chip I got:

7408 TTL 14 Pin DIP IC: Quad 2-Input And Gate

#161 6 years ago

Also I ordered from ebay. Was there a better route?

#162 6 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I actually thought you wanted me to order the parts last night. I have 10 tip 102s, (6) 7408 ttl, (10) 2n4401 but only (10) 1n4007 diodes.

This is perfect.

Quoted from Tomass:

Also I ordered from ebay. Was there a better route?

No I purchase from Ebay all the time.

#163 6 years ago

Ok. I will get a good pair of flush cutters and post when I am about to begin replacing parts. Probably next week by the time I get my parts.

#164 6 years ago

One more thought came to mind. We were dealing with solenoids first then worry about switch 18 adjustment and the mystery wheel not spinning. Is this something I should test or troubleshoot while I wait for parts? Is there a way to test the stepper motor or just wait till its running first?

#165 6 years ago

Wait until the CPU is 100% then the rest will be cake.

#166 6 years ago

Ok, sounds good. This is the first time I had the board out and it looks dark like it was really hot on the back side of the bank of resistors. Looks worse in the pic. Also here is a pic behind q27. Just wondering if we are still ok

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#167 6 years ago

These are the resistors that i think were hot

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#168 6 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Just wondering if we are still ok

Your good to go. Darkening from heat from the resistors is normal. If you switch to LEDs the heat output will drop too. Dark area around Q-27 may clean up with alcohol, my only caution is when boards become overheated like Q-27 has been the bond of the trace to the board becomes weaker. So care must be used so the trace is not damage when removing and installing components. The time you spend on the trace with the soldering iron is key to success. The time you wait to let cool off before soldering the next lead is key also. Board work is not fast paced, its slow and tedious work which is not for everyone. While waiting for parts find a scrap board and practice.

#169 6 years ago

I found an lcd driver board to practice on and I'm glad I did. There is a feel to it and it takes a couple pins to get it right. On a good note the practice board has slightly closer pins and I'm using the old components to resolder wich I assume is a little harder. I will say, I am having difficulty keep any kind of tinning on my solder tip and its a battle to get any to take after just a few pins. I will watch some tech vids for some pointers but if I am all ears if anyone has pointers. Maybe I have the wrong flux? Its a white paste in a tube. I don't see others using it.

#170 6 years ago

Flux is your friend, there are many kinds and brands I have seen in the past 30+ years of board repair. But I got to say I have never seen white paste flux. Post a pic of it.

#171 6 years ago

15062218106611581215877 (resized).jpg15062218106611581215877 (resized).jpg

#172 6 years ago

Yours is for soldering copper pipes.

I use something like this.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mg-chemicals/8342-50G/473-1234-ND/6612614
For dipping iron in.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/chip-quik-inc/SMD291ST8CC/SMD291ST8CC-ND/2485789
This can be use on desoldering wick.

#173 6 years ago

Ok, thanks. Ill have to order some unless this works. Its the only thing local that I found so far.

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#174 6 years ago

That is for pipe also.

#175 6 years ago

Once you get some good flux you will be in heaven.

#176 6 years ago

Is my solder ok? Figured I would check since I'm ordering flux.

15062650775891710783906 (resized).jpg15062650775891710783906 (resized).jpg

#177 6 years ago

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.techni-tool.com/488SO162&ved=0ahUKEwis1d-elb7WAhVl5oMKHVj-DdsQFgidATAJ&usg=AFQjCNFDCbKDWw2Gn2qBxjhcpEbNbH9bLw

The ratio between lead and tin affects the melting point, the lower melting point the better for circuit boards. The small diameter is better for not applying to much solder.

#178 6 years ago

I am going to see if I can pick this stuff at local electronics store so it doesn't delay the whole project. I also noticed something with the aux power board out. I was testing the components that I knew how to test and I may have a few bad diodes. Most test correctly but some seem to have failed. Would some of these still be in circuit and finding an alternate route of continuity? I guess I should desolder and check? Also is there anything else I should randomly test for maintenance now that the board is out?

#179 6 years ago

When I remove a board from a game I give it a visual inspection first, I look for cracked solder joints, old repairs, heat discoloration and damaged components. I then test TIPs, diodes and cement resistors. Then I replace parts that tested bad and all electrolytic caps. Then I replace all GI header pins and corresponding connectors and clean and install the board. After this is done to all circuit boards the game rarely needs any other repairs.

#180 6 years ago

Well I chickened out and had the electronics store do the main board repairs. I am not exactly happy with their work though. Here are some pics. I will install it tonight when I get home and see how it goes. Is there anything I should test before trying it? I think I will try to clean up their work a little. A couple look like they could be jumped but not sure.

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#181 6 years ago

There might be a solder splash on U-20 between pin 2 and 3.

#182 6 years ago

The second and third pin here looks shorted for sure. I hope it will clean up.

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#183 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

There might be a solder splash on U-20 between pin 2 and 3.

Look at the top side to.

#184 6 years ago

Yeah I saw that. Do I have a hope of cleaning that up do you think? I will never use Frigid North again.

#185 6 years ago

Use a toothpick to push it loose. If that doesn't work then a clean, fluxed tip of a soldering iron should lift it up like a magnet.

#186 6 years ago

So I may have a bad chip. I am testing these before I put the board in, and on u19 I am getting 19 k ohms between pins 4 and5, and the other chips all read o.l on those same pins. Should I still put the board in?

#187 6 years ago

Sorry something was off. The others are reading 5 M ohms.

#188 6 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Should I still put the board in?

Yes, but leave 1J11 and 1J12 off for power up. Once powered up you can test all 16 pins for ground. Any that read ground are bad.

#189 6 years ago

Ok sounds good. I will be ready for testing tonight then. So I will be testing resistance using the ground on the header pin to the other pins? Would any reading that is significant be what I am looking for? Also, I got all my parts yesterday and installed new rubber. Most of the top side is back together. First time doing this so a lot of; put 3 plastics on, take 2 back off.

#190 6 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

So I will be testing resistance using the ground on the header pin to the other pins?

Testing resistance from ground (mounting screw, ground braid) to each pin, a low reading would be a problem.

#191 6 years ago

Ok, about to power up and test. So am I testing the j11 and j12 pins on the aux power board (unplugged connectors for power up) while game on, correct?

#192 6 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

So am I testing the j11 and j12 pins on the aux power board

These would be 5J11 and 5J12. ( prefix 5 is for aux board ) 1J11 is on the CPU board.

Quoted from Tomass:

while game on, correct?

Correct.

#193 6 years ago

Ok, smoothest startup yet. each pin reads o.l

#194 6 years ago

Anything else before i restart all connected?

#195 6 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Anything else before i restart all connected?

No just listen for a coil locking on very carefully.

#196 6 years ago

Wait I forgot you will need this!

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#197 6 years ago

lol I'm nervous enough as is.

#198 6 years ago

WOOHOO!!!!!!! things seem good. got 1 ramp to install and test PLAY!!!

#199 6 years ago

I never get nervous, but then its not my machine just about to catch fire.

#200 6 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

got 1 ramp to install and test PLAY!!!

Don't hurry now because your close. Finish up and then PLAY BALL!

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