Two of these issues maybe burnt bulbs. If you take a jumper wire with one end connected to the ground braid and use the other end to briefly touch the metal tab of the TIP circuit that you want to test. The coil or lamps on the circuit will activate every time you touch the tab. Only do this on tip122 and tip102. So since solenoid #9 did nothing you can split the circuit in half by touching the metal tab of Q-17, there is one flasher bulb on the p/f that should light. If it doesn't light then replace the bulb and retest. If a new bulb doesn't light then there is a wiring issue and not a board issue. Try this same test for solenoid 15. Bear in mind that this circuit has 3 bulbs and are 24 volt bulbs #1251. if they are burnt out you can get these from the auto parts store.

This is exactly what you do.

Q-30 is the knocker and it was locked on before, now it doesn't work. So did a fuse burn when it was locked on?

I would check F-2 and F-4 on the aux power supply.

Check for voltage from ground to the metal tab of Q-30.

Put the game in solenoid test and lock it on solenoid 12, then use the jumper and ground Q-25. Does the flasher work now.

Then repeat this test for Q-23 and Q-22. Never mind these 2 are the one that are stuck on.

Check the 2 bulbs for solenoid 2c one is in the back box and one is on the p/f to see if they are burnt.

In post #54 you said Q-25 did nothing, but I see in post #50 that it works so that good.
Well then there isn't anything left to check until you get your probe. Let me know when you get it.

This will show up on my topics page any time anybody posts. You will be a pro at this very shortly.

Yea that's the four flashers that are stuck on which will turn on every time the a/c relay clicks.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-logic-probes#post-2512742

Here's some good reading while you are waiting for your probe.

It is easier then it sounds.

There is some testing you can do on the 7408 chips with a multimeter. Especially if you have a Fluke. They have a good feature that can really help with diagnosing locked-on diodes, or transistors (or bridge rectifiers)

If you look at the layout of the 7408 I posted earlier, you can see it is essentially a package of 4 transistors. You can test those transistors by the pins in groups of three:

1-2-3
4-5-6
8-9-10
11-12-13

If you get solid continuity, or very low resistance between any of those, its a fair indicator that one of the internal transistors are locked on.

Not to say a logic probe isn't easier - just if you had nothing else to do while you waited for yours

Are you ready for some fun? Lets start with the two flashers that are stuck on 6c and 8c.

Look at page 29 of the manual and it shows the 2 basic types of circuits found on the cpu board. 6c and 8c are Controled solenoid circuits so look at the circuit on the right hand side. Basically there is a AND gate a predriver some biasing resistors and a driver transistor to turn on and off a solenoid (flasher, coil, relay....). We will start with 6c, page 28 shows the solenoid table. When we go down to 6c and then to the right its labeled Ferris wheel flashers and Q-23 is the driver. On page 50 Q-23 is near the bottom and at the crack of the page.

Could this be the boomerang flasher? They are 28 volts.

With the game in attract mode the flasher 6c should be off. So connect your logic probe to the 5 volt and ground test points on the cpu. Select TTL instead of CMOS. now test your probe by touching the 5 volt test point and the red arrow should light. Now touch the ground and the green should light.

So for solenoid 6 we need to check part of U-19 for the correct signals. Pins 12 and 13 are inputs and pin 11 is the output. Do you know how to find pins 11,12 and 13 on U-19?

No the is a metal stud to the left the batteries and between u21 and U-22.

The ground test point is next to the upper left corner of the battery holder.

Its always a good idea to use power from the board that you are testing so that its the same power that is going to the chips that you are testing.

Now for U-19 pin 13 is connected to the blanking signal. Any time the cpu is booted correctly the blanking signal should be a high. So test pin 13 to check.

I'm just reading the manual and I have seen my share of mistakes.

Were they burnt out, most people don't know that some bulbs are 28 volts and install the incorrect type.

Just above U-19 is a white label saying blanking and an arrow. Test this spot.