(Topic ID: 245079)

Help with MM leg wrinkles


By acidburn

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by acidburn
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 4 months ago

Hi all,

I’m about to trade one of my games plus cash for a nice Medieval Madness. It is a lovely example except one flaw, the machine was re-decalled about 8 years ago and the front legs have decal wrinkle due to the owner using the plastic type leg protectors.

I’ve read a few old threads on how to get these out but I’m worried that the decals have been ‘set’ for a number of years that they will be brittle and that I will probably do more harm trying to ‘fix’ them.

I’ve attached a couple of photos. You might want to zoom in. There are some tight wrinkles near the trolls head on the right leg. I’m looking for opinions on how or if I should attempt a repair.

It could be a deal breaker if it can’t be rectified without applying new decals.

Cheers
Scott
656ED2F5-6DC7-4E21-AEDC-9FD9F9EAA6A8 (resized).jpeg

#2 4 months ago

You could try to heat them up with a hair dryer and slowly push it out with a small squeegee or a credit card.

#3 4 months ago
Quoted from 2manypins:

You could try to heat them up with a hair dryer and slowly push it out with a small squeegee or a credit card.

This is what I was planning but I was concerned that because the decals have been applied since around 2010 they might be brittle? I was wondering perhaps someone else had luck with decals that were not ‘fresh’ wrinkles.

#4 4 months ago

I would definitely try the hair dryer (NOT heat gun) to warm them up and smooth them out with squeegee/fingers/etc.

I used that method to smooth out wrinkles on a TOTAN backboard decal that had been there over 20 years. Looks flawless now.

Very low risk if you go slow and use minimal heat to get it done.

Then use Stern-style metal protectors

Some wrinkled decals are not a deal-breaker for anyone sane, IMO.

RussM

#5 4 months ago

I would use a heat gun from a distance on it’s lowest setting and use a putty spreader or a trowel, extra gently.

#6 4 months ago

This is the tool you want to use.

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#7 4 months ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Some wrinkled decals are not a deal-breaker for anyone sane, IMO.
RussM

Depends on if they will come out or not. Would you pay the same price for a classic car with a bad paint job if you could get the same classic car with a perfect paint job.

#8 4 months ago
Quoted from bam10:

This is the tool you want to use.[quoted image]

Do you know what it’s called? I need to find one in the UK. Perhaps Amazon? I was planning on just using a combination of my fingers and a micro fiber cloth...but that looks good.

#9 4 months ago
Quoted from acidburn:

Depends on if they will come out or not. Would you pay the same price for a classic car with a bad paint job if you could get the same classic car with a perfect paint job.

But that's like a bad paint job in the door jambs. Annoying, yes, but not a deal breaker for most unless the person is asking very top dollar.

As for those decals. I'd be really surprised if they came out, especially the one in the first pic. Second pic looks doable.

That is just a plastic squeegee. I don't like those. I use the ones with felt on them. Helps them glide better with way less risk of damaging the decal. Only done a few cabs but I use them for wraps on cars. This is the style I prefer. amazon.com link »

#10 4 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

But that's like a bad paint job in the door jambs. Annoying, yes, but not a deal breaker for most unless the person is asking very top dollar.
As for those decals. I'd be really surprised if they came out, especially the one in the first pic. Second pic looks doable.
That is just a plastic squeegee. I don't like those. I use the ones with felt on them. Helps them glide better with way less risk of damaging the decal. Only done a few cabs but I use them for wraps on cars. This is the style I prefer. amazon.com link »

Appreciate the advice and the link thank you I will have to disagree with you on your point about the door jambs though. This is on the outside and I will see it every time I look at the machine. I’m (like many) OCD about this stuff. It is a classic after all, if it were a cheaper and less attractive title I wouldn’t be concerned at all.

#11 4 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

As for those decals. I'd be really surprised if they came out, especially the one in the first pic. Second pic looks doable.

I agree.

To make it easier, you want to remove some of the decal under the leg. You're going to want to install the metal cab protectors and when doing so, you're going to want to cut out the portion of the decal under the protector. Now when you heat up the decal, you don't have so much of it to move.

#12 4 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I agree.
To make it easier, you want to remove some of the decal under the leg. You're going to want to install the metal cab protectors and when doing so, you're going to want to cut out the portion of the decal under the protector. Now when you heat up the decal, you don't have so much of it to move.

Just what I was thinking. Remove the decal under the leg and then attempt to push out the wrinkles towards the leg area releasing any trapped air and allowing the decal to move.

I guess most of the wrinkles will be cutaway anyway. I could use the metal protectors as a template of where to cut.

#13 4 months ago
Quoted from acidburn:

Appreciate the advice and the link thank you I will have to disagree with you on your point about the door jambs though. This is on the outside and I will see it every time I look at the machine. I’m (like many) OCD about this stuff. It is a classic after all, if it were a cheaper and less attractive title I wouldn’t be concerned at all.

I'm as OCD as they come and have some wrinkles in my TFLE. I don't even notice them anymore. But I do notice the large scratch my wife put into the door jamb of my car with her shoes every stinking time I get in and out of my car Guess it's all relative.

One thing to keep in mind though. If this is an original, the decals alone already reduced it's overall classic conductibility value which is why I think it's not such a big deal to me. I'm sure with what we've talked about already you can get it nice enough to not stand out. Just am not confident you will get them looking new again.

Good news is that it's already been decaled so you can redecal the cab down the road and it wont effect the originality anymore than it already has. It's not an easy job but not rocket science either. Taking your time and doing some good prep work and it's very doable at home.

#14 4 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I'm as OCD as they come and have some wrinkles in my TFLE. I don't even notice them anymore. But I do notice the large scratch my wife put into the door jamb of my car with her shoes every stinking time I get in and out of my car Guess it's all relative.
One thing to keep in mind though. If this is an original, the decals alone already reduced it's overall classic conductibility value which is why I think it's not such a big deal to me. I'm sure with what we've talked about already you can get it nice enough to not stand out. Just am not confident you will get them looking new again.
Good news is that it's already been decaled so you can redecal the cab down the road and it wont effect the originality anymore than it already has. It's not an easy job but not rocket science either. Taking your time and doing some good prep work and it's very doable at home.

Side question. So to remove a decal you all would use a heat gun correct?

#15 4 months ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Side question. So to remove a decal you all would use a heat gun correct?

I'd start with a heat gun on those as they may not be stuck on to good. If it came off, then great and I would continue. The last one I did I just sanded it off though with a rotary sander.

Either way, you will have to do some sanding to get the cab smooth again (glue residue removed fully as well). Then some paint and decal application.

#16 4 months ago
Quoted from 85vett:

I’m sure with what we've talked about already you can get it nice enough to not stand out. Just am not confident you will get them looking new again.

That’s all I’m really aiming for here, to improve it to the point where you would have to look VERY hard to notice an imperfection.

So a majority would agree that I should definitely be able to safely manipulate these to reduce the wrinkling as long as I carefully apply heat and take my time?

#17 4 months ago

Just noticed something else that’s going to bug me. The lightning bolts, aren’t they supposed to lineup front/side?

#18 4 months ago
Quoted from acidburn:

Just noticed something else that’s going to bug me. The lightning bolts, aren’t they supposed to lineup front/side?

No.

#19 4 months ago

I know they’re not supposed to precisely lineup but these look way out from other examples I’ve just looked at.

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