Star Wars
Data East, 1992Quoted from german-pinball:You can buy a fuse-puller, but I think, you do not have one.
I always use a little screwdriver (machine OFF) and lift the fuse out; be a bit careful, that the fuse glass does not break!!!
The fuse looks blown.
Yoi think that fuse is blown?
Go back and look at post 184. Do you want your pin to look like that? Get that fuse out of there. DO NOT TURN ON THE POWER SWITCH AGAIN UNTIL YOU HAVE THE CORRECT FUSE IN THERE.
Quoted from Starwriter:Go back and look at post 184. Do you want your pin to look like that? Get that fuse out of there. DO NOT TURN ON THE POWER SWITCH AGAIN UNTIL YOU HAVE THE CORRECT FUSE IN THERE.
Got it. Got to be honest with you. I have never pulled a fuse before. Do I just use a small flar screwdriver? Thanks
Yes, just stick it under the glass on 1 end and pop 1 end out, then grab it and pull. The main thing is to make sure you don't pry on an IC or transistor or something. If you really want, you can buy a glass fuse puller at an auto parts store. Even though they haven't used glass fuses in cars for probably 35 years, I would think they would have it in stock.
Quoted from Starwriter:Yes, just stick it under the glass on 1 end and pop 1 end out, then grab it and pull. The main thing is to make sure you don't pry on an IC or transistor or something. If you really want, you can buy a glass fuse puller at an auto parts store. Even though they haven't used glass fuses in cars for probably 35 years, I would think they would have it in stock.
Sounds great. I'm on my way to radio shack to look for the 5 amp slo blo fuses. Please check back later. Thanks
Oh boy, while working on the fuse, dropped a drop of sweat on the dmd. Will it damage it? One thing after another 
I am starting to think that there is a reason why the previous owner put a bigger fuse in there. Maybe he put it there because the smaller (original) 5 amp was blowing and that was his solution, just putting a bigger fuse in there? If that is the case then there is a bigger problem causing the fuse to blow? What do you think? Why would he install that bigger and different looking fuse holder? Here is a picture I took a while back when I started the thread. There you can see the different fuse and fuse holder. Thanks for spotting it starwriter! Your sharp observation possibly prevented a fire in my house! I really appreciate it!
Can you please tell me if I can install a 5amp fuse in that fuse holder? What do you think about the previous questions? Thanks!
Thinking the previous owner solder that wire in the fuse holder becuase maybe a trace got damaged? Or is it possible that he just did it because the connector got burnt where that wire goes?
Quoted from Starwriter:As far as the sweat drop on the DMD, you could clean it a bit with some alcohol and a Qtip. As for all the other questions, just replace the connector, inspect the header pins, put a 5 amp slo-blo fuse in there and then we'll work on the GI light problem.
Hey starwriter, thanks!
Will work on that last connector tonite after work. Will put a new fuse in there and can I turn the machine on now after that is done?
Also, the damn old connector is sooo stuck in there, when I try to pull it out the whole board moves and looks like its going to crack or something. Will try it again and pry I don't damage the board.
Also, the fuse socket is a little loose, I just push the fuse in until it goes in right?
Last thing, The wire soldered to the fuse holder...you suggest I cut it? Or desolder it? Thanks again for spoting that fuse and for your help! You rock!!!
Ugh, that's not good if the connector won't come off. It could be melted on there. It sounds like the header pins may need to be replaced. Absolute worst case, you snip all the wires right at the connector, get the board out of there, unsolder the header pins, remove the header, solder in a new header, and crimp on a new connector with the wires in the correct order according to the manual.
If the fuse holder is loose on the board, that's not great, but it could be that they just didn't get it tight up against the board. You're going to have to be the judge of that or send the board off to someone to have them replace the header and fuse holder.
Definitely desolder that wire. If you're going to keep that fuse holder, clean as much of the solder off as possible just for cosmetic reasons. Don't heat it hot enough to melt the plastic.
Quoted from Starwriter:Ugh, that's not good if the connector won't come off. It could be melted on there. It sounds like the header pins may need to be replaced. Absolute worst case, you snip all the wires right at the connector, get the board out of there, unsolder the header pins, remove the header, solder in a new header, and crimp on a new connector with the wires in the correct order according to the manual.
If the fuse holder is loose on the board, that's not great, but it could be that they just didn't get it tight up against the board. You're going to have to be the judge of that or send the board off to someone to have them replace the header and fuse holder.
Definitely desolder that wire. If you're going to keep that fuse holder, clean as much of the solder off as possible just for cosmetic reasons. Don't heat it hot enough to melt the plastic.
Got it. I know a guy locally that owns a computer repair shop. He told me he can replace the header pins and stuff of that nature. I will try again to remove the connector in a little bit (get out of work at midnight central time) If I feel the board will crack then I will do just that. Will label all the connectors before removing them. I have removed boards before but never has a connector been so stuck in there like this one.
I'm good at soldering but a little scared to desolder so close to the board. I guess there is no way back now. Thank you and please come back, will post more updates in a bit. 
Speculating won't get you anywhere. You need to fix the obvious problems and then if things still don't work, get out the multimeter and diagnose the remaining problems.
Quoted from Starwriter:Speculating won't get you anywhere. You need to fix the obvious problems and then if things still don't work, get out the multimeter and diagnose the remaining problems.
Hey starwriter, what do you think of these header pins?
Well I got great news! Plugged a new fuse in there with the same old connector just to see if it was the fuse and whaaalaaaa! I got GI again! It was the fuse! I will change the connector as well but at least now we know it was just the fuse! Thank you very much Starwriter! I will inspect the rest of the machine for fuses that don't belong there. Question: Why do you think the previous owner installed that higher amperage fuse in there? I'm sure he wasn't awara the it could cause a fire!
Hard to tell from the pic of the pins. Pin 8 does look a little discolored. It's gonna have to be your call. Ideally, they should probably be replaced. Some people here would probably jump up and down demand that the header pins be replaced. As for the blown fuse, that's gonna remain a mystery. You mentioned that the lights worked till you changed the rings. So, either you shorted something with a screwdriver while the power was on, or a wire terminal is so close to something grounded that a sneeze makes it touch ground and blow the fuse. You mentioned that the fuse was an AGC 5. That should be a 5 amp fuse. However, the pic of it looks much higher.
Quoted from Starwriter:Hard to tell from the pic of the pins. Pin 8 does look a little discolored. It's gonna have to be your call. Ideally, they should probably be replaced. Some people here would probably jump up and down demand that the header pins be replaced. As for the blown fuse, that's gonna remain a mystery. You mentioned that the lights worked till you changed the rings. So, either you shorted something with a screwdriver while the power was on, or a wire terminal is so close to something grounded that a sneeze makes it touch ground and blow the fuse. You mentioned that the fuse was an AGC 5. That should be a 5 amp fuse. However, the pic of it looks much higher.
Yeah, the power was def off when I changed the rings. So who knows. Yeah the fuse def looked different but that is what it read on the side of it. Will def keep an eye on it. Will test play it later tonite. Hopefully it plays great. Def change the connector. I assume the wire soldered to the fuse holder was because the connector got burned on the 8 slot? Hopefully it works once I change the connector. Thank you very much Starwriter! I really appreciate your all of your help and knowledge! 
The correct fuse will blow because the connector is charred and causing increased impedance. Replace the connector that should have been replaced a month ago above that fuse holder. Do not wait until that connector causes more damage.
And the 15A on the fuse holder is only the rating of the HOLDER and has no bearing on anything.
Quoted from Patofnaud:The correct fuse will blow because the connector is charred and causing increased impedance. Replace the connector that should have been replaced a month ago above that fuse holder. Do not wait until that connector causes more damage.
And the 15A on the fuse holder is only the rating of the HOLDER and has no bearing on anything.
Oh yes sir, will replace the connector thats for sure. I had a doubt: Do you think that the wire soldered to the fuse holder was soldered there because a trace on the board is messed up? Or it was soldered there just because the connector got toasted on that wire only? Thanks
Meant to say a trace on the board is messed up and did a jumper job by soldering the wire to the holder
Quoted from KornFreak28:Do you think that the wire soldered to the fuse holder was soldered there because a trace on the board is messed up? Or it was soldered there just because the connector got toasted on that wire only? Thanks
Not a psychic. Take the board out and follow the trace back to the connector and measure/inspect.
If I had to guess, the connector burnt and they hacked the wire to the fuse holder. The etch would not usually burn.
Quoted from Patofnaud:Not a psychic. Take the board out and follow the trace back to the connector and measure/inspect.
If I had to guess, the connector burnt and they hacked the wire to the fuse holder. The etch would not usually burn.
Thanks! Really appreciate your help! 
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Tilton, NH