As I see it , your best option is to apply a first layer of clear coat ASAP .
The remaining glue will disappear under the clear coat. raised areas from the glue or cracked paint will even out after you wet sand the playfield.
Make sure though you wait a week after the first layer of 2pac before assessing the job.
Leveling the inserts can be done , along with the first layer of 2pac.
Since the problematic white areas are yellow , you will need to reapply white , so the damage will disappear anyhow.

When you left the game for a while did you leave residual alcohol on the PF? As you probably know if you have been following Vids guide, alcohol eats through clear or any other type of finish. If left on long enough without being wiped off with a damp cloth I could see it eating through the finish and then through the actual paint.

I have loss paint during this process before but it was do to the paint being chipped and cracking so when the mylar was being pulled up there was more holding onto the glue beneath the mylar then on the PF itself and thus it pulled up. In your case this does not appear to be the problem.

My opinion is that any loose materials if not removed before clearing will only make a mess and or blow off when you attempt to clear. So the removal of the flaking is necessary. Others can chime in on this statement.

Here's what I would do:
- Remove the rest of the glue paying attention to how long the alcohol is sitting (less time the better)
- Wipe PF with damp cloth, then naptha to remove any remaining alcohol and flour
- Remove any flaking of paint and or finish
- Air brush in your touch ups
- Clear

Thanks
Blake

If there is prominent flaking , obviously it should be removed before applying clear.
But airbrushing a bare playfield before locking everything with a protective layer of clear is , imho , wrong. Making a mistake is difficult to correct. Also “hills and valleys” not filled with clear before airbrushing , will be prominent under side lighting.

I guess we were both making assumptions. you chose to leave out removing flaking as I chose to leave out laying down base clear before airbrushing.

The assumption is he is following VID’s criteria and And therefore the need to give a step-by-step by step is unnecessary.

The first part of my post is the important part.

Thanks
Blake

It’s hard to say why it peeled the way it did (It certainly could have been the alcohol seeping into the cracks), but it’s obvious the clear/finish was not up to the task of removing the glue without damage.

Cleaning the rest of the playfield will have to be done with care and caution. Naphtha is a good cleaner that you don’t have to worry about removing more clear and or paint (under normal conditions/still be cautious). Novus 2 works better but is more abrasive and in your situation. If you choose to try it, use a white microfiber cloth so you can see any paint bleeding. And check often.

Any areas that can’t hold up to light cleaning will most likely not hold up to clear sprayed on or airbrush if necessary.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks
Blake

In agreement with Blake regarding naptha and Novus. Naptha will not really clean troublesome areas , but Novus 2 might. Go slowly and watch for paint on your white microfiber cloth.
As for areas not holding up to clear , unless you get flakes flying around by just blowing some air with your mouth , which it seems is not the case here from the pics shown , applying clear is completely safe and mandatory.
Dealing with a very neglected playfield that makes yours look like new , the first layer of clear , made all the chips and cracks disappear. I had to repaint all the playfield though.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/surf-champ-slow-playfield-restoration#post-4720407