(Topic ID: 116317)

Help with Bally ST please:


By dbpbandit

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by dbpbandit
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

I'm trying to clean up and figure out some botched wiring on a Bally Star Trek. Can someone please send me a few good pics of how the connections to the power supply board are supposed to look like? Mainly the connectors and which wires go to which pins. Someone really messed this thing up.

Thanks.

#2 5 years ago

The schematics show the connector wiring with a color code chart on the 'Plug Connectors' page

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2355/Bally_1979_Star_Trek_Schematics_paginated.pdf

#3 5 years ago

Thanks, this is a much better copy than what I was working from.

#4 5 years ago

OK, I still need some help with this guys. I do not have a lot of experience with these power supply boards and I'm having a hard time figuring it out, even with the schematics. (see picks) For some reason this is really intimidating me.

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Someone has really hacked this and I have no idea how to get it back to how it's supposed to be. Several wires have been cut from the connectors and hard wired to the board and others have been connected to other wires.

I have a replacement aftermarket board and also a rebuild kit, I'm not sure what would be the best, replace it and fix the connectors and wiring? Or rebuild it and try to figure out the wiring?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

#5 5 years ago

I would go with a new rectifier board unless you are good at rework.

A new rectifier board will need the transformer wires hard soldered and the female plugs will need repinned.

Bally wiring diagram should help you with any wire color mysteries. The only double color is on the 20 pin plugs. skinny orange is 12v return.

#6 5 years ago

I don't know why people do that. Much easier/quicker to repin the burnt connectors.

#7 5 years ago
Quoted from smokey_789:

I don't know why people do that. Much easier/quicker to repin the burnt connectors.

You need quality desoldering tool to rework a rectifier board. There are massive, heat sinking traces that need something that can handle it.

I would rework it, but that is not for everyone.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from dbpbandit:

OK, I still need some help with this guys. I do not have a lot of experience with these power supply boards and I'm having a hard time figuring it out, even with the schematics. (see picks) For some reason this is really intimidating me.

It's a simple board, yet people always seem to just go crazy "fixin'" it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing/page/2#post-2113931

#9 5 years ago

This board is harder than others to work on. My experience is the solder is harder than a steel weld and the traces and pads are very very fragile. You NEED a good solder vacuum to do a neat job... I am now looking for a reasonably priced solder vacuum. After fighting my last power supply board I will not do another without. Good luck!

#10 5 years ago

Thanks for the advice and encouragement guys.

I can rework the board, that's not the problem. I guess the real thing that has me concerned is that I just don't know what was done prior to me getting it and trying to fix someones mess always gets to me.

Thanks for the link Vid, that's a lot of really useful information and I'm going to give it another go. Since I have all of the parts, I'm going to re-work the board first and see how it goes. If I mess it up I'll use the replacement one instead. Once I get all of the wiring sorted out that is.

Thanks again for all the help, this forum rocks.

2 weeks later
#11 5 years ago

UPDATE:

I finally got this wiring figured out and the new board installed. Bench tested it and all voltages are good. Thanks a lot guys!

The game is not booting up but at least I know it's not an issue with the power now. I need to get the board looked at, LED comes on and stays on. Sometimes when you power it up the relay on the regulator comes on and you can activate the flippers but not every time.

I have to do this same procedure on a Stern Galaxy, should be exactly the same, correct?

Thanks again for the help.

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