(Topic ID: 254126)

Help with Ali

By Spyderturbo007

4 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 88 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Rondogg
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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  • Ali Stern Electronics, 1980

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#2 4 years ago

Original metal was brushed stainless. Could have just been repainted. I don't think any other manufacturers (including modern stern) are compatible.

Missing segment is usually a bad resistor or transistor on the display board.

You'll probably need a picture of that tilt for the wiring, but standard tilt parts should work. http://pbresource.com/tilt.html#oldstern

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

FYI, I found the Stern Parts catalog to be very helpful at identifying part numbers/info. The tilt assembly is listed on page 59.
http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/stern-classic/stern-parts-catalog-19.pdf

Link doesn't work

#6 4 years ago

Page 30 of that document has a good guide on fixing bad display segments

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

That is a capacitor, yes you should put a new one on there, .05mf (or .047mf disc capacitor) 50V
Readily available any pin supply house or electronic store.
These from Ed would be fine:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CCD-0.047uF-100V

Also you don't technically /need/ it. It just makes the tilt mech a bit more sensitive

#21 4 years ago

You should probably just get every component related to that display segment, just in case.

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

It looks like they are all 1/4w resistors. Would this be a good choice?

They all are, yes. However, a few were underspecced, and it's recomended these days to use 1/2w for them. The ones for this segment aren't the ones that you want 1/2w for though, so your 1/4 will probably be fine. I tend to always replace stuff with 1/2w when possible since it's just higher specced. If you're ordering parts from digikey/etc anyway might as well buy some 1/2w for ones that you may be replacing.

Other parts that are just generally good to have on hand for bally/sterns:
2N5060 and MCR106 MCRs for the lamp board tend to go bad
2N5401 and MPS-A42 for the display transistors
TIP102 transistors for the driver board

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Thanks so much for the offer Dave. I'm flushing out a few other issues and then I'll definitely take you up on your offer.
What's the best way to diagnose a lamp socket? I'm assuming I can test for voltage coming into the socket? I've replaced the bulb and nothing. I also have a few that are really dim regardless of what bulb I insert.
Does each lamp have its own transistor on the driver board?
Also, is there anything special I'd need to know if I decided to put LEDs in this thing? I put one in and it barely lit up and was strobing. I stuck one in the back box GI and it looked just fine.

Each lamp has its own SCR on the lamp board. There should be 5VDC on the common wire running between all the lamp sockets. If a new lamp won't light, and there's voltage on the common wire, try using alligator clips to connect the lug of the socket to another working one. If it lights, then there's an issue with the lamp board or connectors. If it still doesn't light, replace the lamp socket.

LEDs can't be used in bally/stern without a special lamp board or adapters due to the way SCRs work. Usually not worth it. LEDs are fine for the GI though.

#44 4 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

They all work when jumpered to another socket like you instructed.
Board work?

Either a bad scr, bad solder joint on the connector, or bad connector

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

I reseated the cables on the lamp driver board and now some that didn’t work before are working and some that worked before aren’t working. Hummmm.
Connectors or solder joints on the header pins would be the next place to go I guess?

Yep, start by reflowing the solder joints. Connectors go bad much less frequently than the solder. usually there's at least 5-10 bad joints on any lamp board

#62 4 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Data East standard body lockdown bars are black and will fit any standard body Stern from Ali to Dragonfist. I own both brands; This is not idle talk.

Are DE style compatible with modern stern? or did they switch at some point?

#65 4 years ago

You might have a tough time due to all the values and voltages possible.

#72 4 years ago

You need to go into the audits and reset all of them to 0. Nvram had bad data

#74 4 years ago

Those are type 1 Stern bushings, used up until meteor/big game, I think?

Type 2 is taller, they must have miscategorized

#83 4 years ago

After the tests if you keep pressing the button you'll get the audits. The numbers should all be listed in the manual

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