(Topic ID: 145882)

Help with a few odd TAF issues

By BrianZ

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by BrianZ
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 years ago

Need your thoughts on the following issues with my TAF machine....

- My coin door switch was gone. I bought a new coin door and switch. If i plug in the coin door switch, I get other switch problems within in a few games. Unplug it, all is good. Normal behavior for a missing diode. But I don't see anywhere online that shows the coin door switch on TAF had a diode.. Thoughts?

- Thing hand when coming out slightly scrapes the metal ball guide (it's actually the edge of the coil that hits). This doesn't seem right. I know the mechanism under the playfield can be adjusted/pivoted. I have done so, and still scrapes. I've used all the original screw holes...so it's not making sense. I could move it bit, but wanted to see if anyone else had this problem before I go that route.
Thanks.....

#2 8 years ago
Quoted from BrianZ:

- Thing hand when coming out slightly scrapes the metal ball guide (it's actually the edge of the coil that hits). This doesn't seem right. I know the mechanism under the playfield can be adjusted/pivoted. I have done so, and still scrapes. I've used all the original screw holes...so it's not making sense. I could move it bit, but wanted to see if anyone else had this problem before I go that route.
Thanks.....

I've seen this before. It's mostly caused by wear on the mechanism pivot points.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#3 8 years ago

Any ideas on how to fix it?

#4 8 years ago
Quoted from BrianZ:

I bought a new coin door and switch. If i plug in the coin door switch, I get other switch problems within in a few games.

Those are dedicated switches, thus no diodes. Have you verified in switch test that all of the diag switches work properly?

Please describe the other switch problems.

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Those are dedicated switches, thus no diodes

The coin door does plug onto the coin door interface board. Be sure you don't have screws or nuts behind it between the board and cabinet wall. And no flipper wear dust all over that board - metal dust conducts electricity.

LTG : )™

#6 8 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Those are dedicated switches, thus no diodes. Have you verified in switch test that all of the diag switches work properly?
Please describe the other switch problems.

That's what i figured. It's quite bizarre. Plug the switch in (Which works), and within a few games the left trough switch stops working.

I've played over hundred games since the restore, and had zero problems. Finished up the restore by adding the coin door switch, and splat....

Quoted from LTG:

The coin door does plug onto the coin door interface board. Be sure you don't have screws or nuts behind it between the board and cabinet wall. And no flipper wear dust all over that board - metal dust conducts electricity.
LTG : )™

Indeed. And thats where I'm getting the two wire leads from. All of the other switches from the coin door into the interface board work perfectly (4 test buttons). The interface board is clean, and appears to not have issues. Although, its worth another check...

#7 8 years ago

The only things the two circuits have in common is 12 volts and the data bus (they use seperate buffer's). A problem with either would affect more than just the one switch.

I'll go with lloyd, something is shorting someplace. It is an odd one.

When the left trough quits working, do the diag switches still work? When the left trough switch quits working if you unplug the diag switches (w/o powering the game off) does the trough switch start working?

#8 8 years ago

Regarding the scraping Thing hand:

It might be that the screws holding the mechanism to the playfield are loose. This would cause the whole assembly to drop. If the screws are tight, then it needs bending. Take the hand out of the machine and put the end of the steel plate in a vice. Bend it so that the hand opens. A small adjustment is usually all that is needed. Too far and Thing won't pick up the ball.

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

hen the left trough quits working, do the diag switches still work? When the left trough switch quits working if you unplug the diag switches (w/o powering the game off) does the trough switch start working?

Yes, the diag switches still work. Will give a try on unplugging and see if the trough switch starts working again.

Quoted from Vector:

It might be that the screws holding the mechanism to the playfield are loose. This would cause the whole assembly to drop. If the screws are tight, then it needs bending. Take the hand out of the machine and put the end of the steel plate in a vice. Bend it so that the hand opens. A small adjustment is usually all that is needed. Too far and Thing won't pick up the ball.

No loose screws, everything is snug. I'll look into bending the bracket...

#10 8 years ago

Or, you might be able to shim the appropriate attach points of the mech to adjust its travel.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Or, you might be able to shim the appropriate attach points of the mech to adjust its travel.

I thought about it, but any shim would actually make it rub worse...

I'm thinking slightly bending the bracket is my only option...

#12 8 years ago

So i bent the bracket in a vise for things hand. Had to do it twice, once it was a little too much, and the hand was rubbing against the back of the thing box. Now it looks good...

As for the switch, I reconnected; and cleaned and reconnected everything on the interface door. Let see what that does..

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