Dead batteries

Or a stuck switch. I'd bet on the stuck switch.

I'm leaning toward dead batteries. Had the exact same thing happen to my taxi. Installed a remote battery holder while I was at it, all was fine after.

It should say on the display the switch number if i remember correctly. Does the free game knocker pop too?

The other thing could be good batteries but a bad diode or battery holder. I don't have a game of that era to test but I'm pretty sure it is a switch or battery not holding the settings. You can have good batteries and a bad on board holder and get this message.

If you turn it on, let that message come up then flip the switch fast off and on does it boot right? If yes your batteries are 110% of the problem.

Chris Kruger

yeah take a meter and measure the voltage at the board right at the holder with the game off. 4.5v OR more.

Adjustment error on startup can be caused by powering it on with the coin door open.

Are your high scores and game settings gone after you get past the adjustment warning?

Good suggestion. Batteries can look like they are in fully, but are actually not quite making contact somewhere. Check the actual voltage coming from the holder. Especially if you just changed them.

Your battieries may be good, but they are likely not making a good connection.

I would examine the battery holder as well. If there is corrosion on the contacts, new batteries wont work as they are sitting there but basically not hooked up.

yeah i saw one holder were the middle upper contact fell off and battery was just pressing up against bakelite spacer, thus no voltage to the board with brand new batteries. It is really best to just mount a remote holder anyhow. Pull the board and do the work.

Is there any battery damage present on the board? Just went thru this on a black knight 2000, there was some alkaline damage under u26 and u27 sockets.

u26 error from the manual states "flipping over priced games to other pinheads results in electrical gnomes infecting future games"

6116 on that board in soldered in. Be careful those etches are flimsy. Use a socket so you can inspect and test the etches under the chip if something goes awry.

What does the MPU diags leds say when you hit the diag button?

You could have just blew out the 6116 while handling the board or you could have an interlock problem/mem protect.

It is not likely that you need to replace the 6116, unless you have confirmed that the battery voltage is actually getting to pin 24 of U25 first. From the repair guides:

"After testing the batteries at the battery holder, test for voltage at the blocking diode D2 (1N4148), which is next to the left bottom side of the battery hold on the CPU board. With the game off, put the black lead on the backbox ground strap, and put the red lead on either side of the diode. You should get around 4.2 to 4.8 volts. The banded diode of the diode connects to the U25 RAM chip pin 24, and should be about .5 volts less than the non-banded side of the diode. If you only get voltage on only one side of the diode (the non-banded side, which connects directly to the battery), the diode is bad and needs to be replaced.

Next check for voltage at the U25 RAM chip. With the game off, you should get about 4.3 volts DC at pin 24 of chip U25 (ground is pin 20 by the way). If you don't, the battery voltage is not getting to the U25 RAM chip. This will cause the game will boot up with the "Factory Setting" or "Adjustment error". Note pin 24 of the 24 pin RAM chip is in the same position as pin 1 of the chip, but on the opposite row of pins. Pin 1 is designated with an impressed "dot" right on the top of the chip. This chip is a 2k by 8 CMOS static 24 pin RAM chip. The part number will be 2016 or 6116-L or NTE2128. Early system 11 games specify this chip as a 5177, but this chip can be replaced with a 6116 instead.

You can still have problems even if you installed new batteries and all the voltages check out. If your game is still giving "Factory Setting" or "Adjustment error", you may have a bad CPU U25 RAM chip. But make sure you double check that battery holder. Even minor corrosion can cause this problem. The voltages may all check out, but the corrosion may be enough to limit CURRENT, and cause this problem."
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm

Blocking diode D2 is to the lower left of the onboard battery holder.

Jump right over and measure U25 pin 24...if you get 4.3VDC or more there, then you should replace U25. If not, it's probably something else (D2, battery pack, solder connections etc..)

C30 is a capacitor.. C = cap D = diode.

Could just have been crap batteries. That is not rare. Evan had instances where the leaked on the board after just a week. Grab a fresh set from another package and try it before swapping chips. Its easier and safer for the board.

Internal short on the IC to ground, drawing more current than it is supposed to....BUT, something else is bothering me, about this:

Is this with the power off? It shouldn't be measuring this - there is no voltage drop from the diode. My game measured 4.8VDC on the anode (non-banded) side and 4.4VDC on the cathode. This is around what you should see with the power off.

Do you have meter with diode test? sounds like your diode is bad like you are reading a piece of wire or shorted diode.
You should see a small voltage drop across the diode like wayout measured.

Ask your old fluffer alter ego.

What was his name again? "Huggies"? "Hugsc"? what was his name???

I thought he was an expert in all things pinball when it came to your games...