(Topic ID: 269002)

Help w/Ender 3d Printer = Glass Bed installation

By iamabearsfan

3 years ago


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#5 3 years ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

In the end I got it to print. Now have new issue. The print job starts and it does a test write on the left side of the bed. That is perfect. Then it does a 2" circle (3 passes) outside of the object I am going to print. That prints perfect. Then it goes inside that circle and starts printing my object. That is where it falls off the rails. The filament either does not stick or after six or so passes it starts getting all snarled up. Last night I changed out the nozzle thinking that might be the issue, same result.
Any ideas on this one would be appreciated. What we are trying to print is a saxophone mouthpiece.

Try slowing down the print speed on the first few layers to something like 10-15mm/s. You may also need to raise your bed temperature if you haven't already. The stock 40C temp setting is too low. Most people run 60-65C

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

I run 10mm/s for the initial layer and 60C. I will try 65C.
I am also running 200C for the nozzle temp. Thoughts on that? Now I am trying to print extra fine at .12. I am guessing that is harder to get to work, but we need that level of quality for a mouthpiece. The thing is for a while, we were getting some good prints. Then they started failing. Same parameters. That is when I started to experiment with other ideas such as the glass bed.

Try making your first layer .2 or .3mm...you may have to go in and toggle a check box in Cura to see the first layer thickness option. You could also try using a raft as well, but they are not always ideal. The nozzle temp varies by spool...technically you should print a temperature tower for each new spool, but if you are not adhering from the start, that isn't going to do you much good anyway unless you slice it at .3mm or something like that.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from msarac:

Definitely this. Even within the same brand you'll find variances in preferred temperature. I use Hatchbox and found that their yellow and white prints much better at lower temps than the darker colors, using the same gcode, profile, and printer.
I look forward to the day when these things are as easy to use as a microwave, but for now there's a lot of trial and error to make the magic happen!

There are a ton of factors that go into what the temperature needs to be. A lower ambient room temperature can cause you to have to run it a bit hotter. My basement is usually pretty cool, so I have to run things on the warmer side. Also beware of humidity...you should take measures to keep your filament dry and not allow it to wick moisture into it. If you are using the spool of filament that came with the printer, set it aside and use something else. The demo material is very hit and miss on quality. I have great results with Amazon Basics/Overture PLA...but right now you have to take what you can get.

No 3d Printer is going to be flawless, especially not a $200 one. You are going to have to learn the ins and outs of how to design and run the printer successfully. The general public thinks you just click your fingers and a finished part comes out of the EZ bake oven, but that couldn't be further from the truth.

I highly recommend joining the Ender 3 Facebook group and sucking as much info up as you can, and ask questions. The folks are helpful and all have gone through the same learning curve as you are undertaking. Once you have some experience, the machine you bought has great bang for the buck.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Even with the glass bed and auto bed leveling I still spray some Aqua Net on the bed every few prints. I probably shouldn't have to, and maybe there are things I can tweak, but in the meantime while I'm learning I find it helps.

A lot of people use glue sticks also if you don't have hair spray laying around to try.

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