It sounds like your score reels need attention. When they turn around to 9th position is when the switches come into play affecting the rotation of the unit, i.e. more drag. All of the reel switches should be inspected for missing contact points (they do fall out on occasion), then adjusted "just so" so that the switches have a very light throw.

Generally, you just have to commit to tearing those reels down, cleaning everything, filing/sanding the points then adjusting them.

I want to say the EOS switch on the reel releases the chime coil...not sure on that one.

Maybe start a game, unplug the head and see if scoring points locks the chime coil then?

+1 on Cody's reply - I think the EOS switch on the reel releases the 100/1000 point relay (whichever one is trying to roll over), which triggers the chime coil, however. I say that because if that gets stuck, then no switch that scores that amount of points on the PF will work while the EOS switch on the score reel is closed.

Your player unit sounds suspect with the Player 2 issue. When you press the credit button to add more players, the credit unit should decrease and that little red number at the bottom of the backglass should advance through 1, 2, 3 and 4. Then a switch on that unit opens to keep you from being able to add another (5th) player.

So then the game starts, and the player unit takes over. It is what moves through player to player as you work through a game. It works in conjunction with the ball count unit. Player unit is in the backbox and the ball count is on the motor board.

I would check all of the operations on the player unit for starters. Try manually advancing and resetting the player stepper unit in the backbox. It needs to be very clean and snappy, as there are a lot of contacts on that wheel that can bog its operation down if they get dirty. The clock spring on that player unit also needs to be adjusted just right in terms of tension to get a good reset and proper advancing.

Does the ball count unit work as it should in a one player game (e.g. moves through all 3/5 balls and then 'Game Over')? Sounds like it is ok at this point.

-scott

Cody is leadin you right. you gotta go through all those reels, clean/lube/adjust. You can manually move the reels through the numbers with a finger or a stick. click them around a few times, and watch how the switches/reel acts when goin from 8 to 9, and from 9 to 0.
They must move smoothly, or you get all kinds of problems.
and chk the EOS switches, they are what releases the score relays, "most of the time anyway".
then, you have all the normal stuff, tighten switch stacks. clean/adjust as needed.
and chk coin door switches, "often overlooked", for correct assembly/function.
In short, go through the whole pin, clean and inspect everything. when these pins set for a long time, things get dusty, and oxidized.
you gotta get all that out if you expect the pin to keep working correctly.
and even then, expect a hiccup from time to time.

BC -

I just realized I said players 1-4 in that post above...Duh - that's Space Mission! Sorry about that.

-scott

The End of Stroke circuit ensures the player gets a score when the pulse from a playfield switch is too short to fully operate a score reel. The reaction time of a relay is shorter than that of a score reel.

When a playfield switch is struck, it turns on a relay (10 pt relay, 100 pt relay etc).
When the relay closes, a switch on the same relay closes to lock itself on.

Another switch on the same relay closes to operate the chime coil.
Another switch on the same relay closes to operate the score reel coil.

As the score reel solenoid plunger reaches the end of its stroke, it opens the EOS switch.
That now-open switch cuts power to the previously locked on relay.

The contacts on the now de-powered relay open, turning off the chimes and score reel coil.

The need of the EOS circuit is somewhat controversial. Some say it is not needed. Me, I like to keep my machines 100% original operational.

You can adjust the EOS switch on your score reels so they are always open and defeat their purpuse.... If nothing else just to isolate the trouble.

Here is an animation I made a while back. Notice the EOS switch.
WilliamsReel.gif

^^^That's really cool.

Hi BCpinhead
Cleaning every Switch ? Some people say (AAA) "Yes, DO IT !". Others say (BBB) "NEVER do it". Others say (CCC) "It depends on". I am BBB/CCC.
A Gottlieb pin : Rather BBB. A "Newbie": Rather BBB. "Wms/Bally and some experience": CCC - Have a look at some switches - all dirty ? Tight-adjusted blades ? Very-loose-adjusted blades ? Stepper Units have signs of old grease, sticky, "no smooth stepping by hand" ? -> Rather AAA.

Several problems -> I would take ONE Problem and solve it -> THEN have a look at the next problem. you should decide and tell us - "Ball-count does not move at end of a ball" ? OR: "Game can not be started for a second player (or such)" ? OR: "Problem: Chime sticks and XXX-Points Relay sticks (or chime sticks - but not the according relay (or such) ? OR: "Problem with ..." ?

"1000 Point Bonus at start of a (new) Ball" ? I say: Yes, thats is normal on Space-Odyssey / Space-Mission. "More modern pins might have this feature.
Look here -> ipdb.org, Space Mission, Schema-page-2: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2253/Williams_1976_Space_Mission_Schematic_Diagram_paginated.pdf -> the LIST "COIL LOCATION (around Number-14)" tells us: "Bonus Unit Step-up Coil" is shown at E-14 -> look there and see the wires coming down (in the schema). A SWITCH ON THE OUTHOLE-RELAY IS INVOLVED. Conclusion: Yes, 1000 Point Bomus is given at "Start of a new Ball".

As You can play a bit - the first ball (a bit) - I suggest: First problem to be solved: "sticking Chimes / related XXX-Point-Relay.
The "Coils of the Chimes" are also shown on page-2, at E-12 / E-13.
EVERY Chime is simply operated by a "Switch on according XXX-Point-Relay". EITHER the Switch is set too tight and makes (faulty) always contact OR: The according relay does "Faulty pull and stick".
I believe the "10 Point / 100 Point / 1000 Point Relays" are in the Backbox. Unplug the Main Power-cord, take a wooden stick ( a ruler from school is fine), practice a bit: Push the end of the wooden stick onto the anchor-plate of such a relay and let go - You simulate "Coil gets current and starts to pull - looses current and let go".
Plug-in the Main-Power-cord, turn-on and start a game -> take the wooden stick and push the anchor-plate of the 1000 Point Relay and immediately afterwards let go WHAT happens ?
Turn-off / unplug the pin -> (all relays move back) -> plug-in, turn-on, start a game -> use the wooden stick on the 100 Point Relay - WHAT happens ?
Do the same with 10 Point Relay -> WHAT happens ?

Please report - and we look further, Greetings Rolf

Have you checked for a stuck playfield switch? This could also cause some of these issues.

Hi BCpinhead
The Space Odyssey is well worth fixing it - a fun pin ( I happen to own a Space Mission).
You can start it: GREAT - there could be many problems on "starting the game" - we do not have these problems.

The very first problem - as soon as the 100-Point-Relay starts pulling (You use the wooden stick or You close a "Playfield-Switch worth 100 Points): The Relay sticks, the 100-chime sticks and (I say: the "100 Point Score-Reel-Plunger" sticks. Am I right ? Maybe / maybe not.

Can You "take-out" the 100-Point Score-Reel ? Every Score-Reel is hooked-in and then secured. At the "bottom-side end near You": a stiff steel wire / nail comes down, straight. With a finger You can move this nail a bit to the "Lefthand-side" (keep-on moving) - You can "lift-up / turn-up" the lower end of the Reel a bit and then "unhook" the top end of the Score-Reel. NOW You can take the Reel out / away. Turn around the Reel a bit - so You can have the reel "loose / visible / secure / not making shorts / no hindering of movement of other goodies" - the reel hangs on its many wires and You can see the "Inside of the Reel".

You can do 1 (to 2) minutes of testing having a relay "faulty-constantly pulling". After 1-2 minutes: Unplug the Line-Cord and let cool off.

Do Your test again and look at the Score-Reel - does the plunger move and then stay "pulled" (the Score-Reel also sticks) ?
P-AAA (Possibility-AAA): Yes, the plunger moves and sticks.
P-BBB: No, the plunger does not move - NO sign of action (of the plunger).
P-CCC (we unfortenately do not have): The plunger moves and shortly afterwards it moves back.

Great, Your 10-Point-Score-Reel is functioning. ALSO take the 10-Point-Score-Reel out. Let a friend make 10 Points on the playfield and You watch the 10-Point-Score-Reel. Look here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1977-1978/index.html#/14/zoomed : the moving plunger / plastic part has a notch - the notch "at end of travel" OPENS the "Switch named SW-2M-12". The "Switch opens" does CUT the "feeding of the "Coil on 10 or 100 Point RELAY". THIS Switch must open on Your 100-Point-Score-Reel.

If You have P-AAA: Have a look at the lower end of this switch - is there a "drop of solder in between" ? Is one "blade-and-the-solder-point" bent making "always faulty contact" ? Does the moving plunger securely OPENS this Switch ?
You might have to adjust the blades ...

If You have P-BBB: Sneek-in a stripe of paper (for insulating) in between the two blades of the switch. You have this switch permanently open. NOW: Let Your friend make some 100 points on the playfield - You should see: 100 Point-Relay gets active - and then it lets go again.
(Of course: The Points are not given onto the Score-Reel).

Please report - we might have to investigate (P-BBB) on "Why does the "Coil on the 100-Point Score-Reel" does NOT get current ?".

(((Please do not write about "writing long posts" - You make me moody))) Greetings Rolf

Try a small piece of card stock between each of the 100s score reels EOS switches. The 100 pt relay coil is powered through a number of paths but this may be the easiest to test right off. You can see below that the coil is locked in via a switch on that 100 point relay when the relay pulls in. Then when one of the normally closed EOS switches opens, that path is broken. If you manually activate the relay, the coil should not lock on because you should have no path to ground through the EOS switches UNLESS it's one of the other paths in this section of the schematic. You could even consider doing this with the playfield disconnected.

Disclaimer: This schematic was from the 4 player version, so yours will not be exactly the same, but the methodology is likely similar.

SchematicSO.PNG

Hi BCpinhead
the "Original problem, 100-Point-Relay sticks" - You've located the cause: The 100-Point-Relay does pull and closes the switch for to let current flow to the "Coil on the 100-Point Score-Reel" - BUT the current does not get there -> ipdb.org-schema Space Mission -> page-2, around "Number-10 / -11": A "Switch on 100-Point-RELAY closes -> through the "Player Unit" -> the Score-Reel gets current.
Well, Your pin is a 2-Player pin and (very likeky) does NOT have a Player Unit - a Relay is used, it pulls or does not pull: Player-2 / Player-1 (maybe: Player-1 / Player-2).
So lets look for a 2-Player schema of that time -> http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?gtype=EM&mfgid=413&yr=1970-79&pl=2&sortby=date&searchtype=advanced -> Swinger-1972, Liberty-Bell-April-1977, Lucky-Seven-July-1977. I would choose "Liberty Bell" schema for looking "original Problem" (((or maybe "Swinger"))).

Unfortunately, You now have a "Starting problem" - I would look in "Schema Space Mission" - The pin does not reset and the Score-Motor runs forever.
Do You remember what You have done "just before the Start-Problem arises" ? Would be a help.

The schema shows (page-1, E-4) the Score-Motor, downwards runs a wire -> I see a "Switch on 25 Cent Relay (endlessly faulty-pulling ? Switch-Blades bent and " there is faulty contact (even when the relay is not pulling) ?). A wire runs down further -> many Switches can keep the Motor (faulty) turning.
"Make and Brake Switch on Reset Relay (endlessly faulty-pulling ? Switch-Blades bent ?)", "... on Outhole-Relay ( ?, ?)"
"Normally-Open Switch on Coin-Relay (?, ?)", "... on 10 Cent Relay (?, ?) - actually ALL the (Relays), Switches shown (?, ?)

Did You work on the "Make and Brake Self Hold-Switch SCM-IND-E" ?

Write about the mentioned Relays / Switches / Things I have done before the problem". Greetings Rolf