Ok - HELP! I shorted out something in my lamp matrix, fooling around with a loose socket and light bulb for Marilyn, of course, the game was on and the socket touched some other metal and that's all it took to screw something up.

It looks like the whole column 4 in the lamp matrix is screwed up all the characters plus a few others. When I turn off the machine, Drac and Gorbie, along with the Ride Again light stay lit and then slowly fade out. I also noticed that the Santa light lights up at the start of the game and just stays on. It looks like those character lights are not blinking the way they should in attract mode.

I am stooopid with the electronics end. How do I find what is fried? Could it be the diodes that are attached to the lamp sockets?

I'm hoping there is no damage to the board - it looks like 1J6 controls this column.

I have a meter but don't know how to use it. Maybe someone can help walk me through this. I'm soooo bummed, I refurbished this Taxi and now caused a problem - I need to fix this before holidays and friends/family visit.

Thanks for your help ahead of time.........

-Urgh, Nate-

I'm up for it - I think!!! Light socket is "fixed" although I think it'll need to be replaced, I think the BULB in the damn thing was acting up as well (LED of course, when will I learn just to stick with regulars?).

Oh, I will also mention that if anyone lives near me (Baltimore - county), I'd be happy to pay to have someone troubleshoot/fix for me.

-Nate

Thanks boscokid, I'll take a look. Offer is still good for someone to come to my place and fix it................

Well, from reading about the lamp matrix, it looks like I have some burned out TIP transistors. Anyone in Baltimore County good at board soldering?? That's something I haven't done yet............I say I have bad transistors because the same row is turned on constantly, and very bright - so they are obviously betting the entire voltage and not being switched on/off so that they blink.

*Sigh* I'm so stoopid!

Simplykind and Kporter - thanks for the support. I actually have soldered and done repairs (I brought Taxi back to life....before injuring her!!!) and it is a rewarding feeling - but I am worried about messing up the board. I would think the TIPs are fairly easy to replace?.................I will be ordering the parts.

Do you have JohnWartJr info? You can message me. Thanks.

-Nate

kporter that's nice to know, I'm fairly agile with repairs, I just worry about soldering those small round contacts out of the board - I know older boards this happens often.

I have a meter, will test them this week (when I figure out what to do!), gotta learn to use it sometime! Thanks for the recommendations also.

-Nate

fish1975 and bosco - ooookay, you guys convinced me, fish, that is the type of instruction I need - I will get a solder sucker and see what happens - of course, carving out a niche of time to DO this damn repair is something else.......

I also need to ask how to use the MMeter when checking the circuits - I will shoot a photo of my particular meter and someone can point out the settings - sorry, but thanks, you are making me feel a little better - I was soooo depressed about this but it seems fixable!!

-Nate

Herg - I have not yet, I am going to get some alligator clips to test with. From the behavior of the bulbs I am assuming at this point. It happened last night - now I'm at work........ I was hoping maybe it was the diodes - could that be possible that they were fried - could the transistors be ok? (That would be great!) I know, we won't know until I test the damn things - I hear ya!!

I think the socket that was worked loose contacted the metal of the Marilyn pops which is directly beneath it.......I located the column that appears to be affected and the corresponding row on the schematic (pat on back!!!).

-Nate

Yes, I'm leaning to having someone else do it - I just don't wannt f*&# up something else in the process - but I think I can do this type of thing, I need to practice on a dead board.................I've had some offers of help - I will keep you posted - I WILL do the troubleshooting to isolate what needs fixing though.

Thanks everyone!

Nate

Okay, here's an update:

I used my Multi-meter to test the diodes on the sockets, black on the banded side and red on the opposite side. Readings were good at around .5 volts. This is my first time doing this, it seemed like sometimes I couldn't get a reading at all, even when I replaced one of the diodes with a new one after getting a "null" reading on that one in particular??? I might be doing something wrong?.....I guess easiest thing is to replace all diodes that I can't get a reading and just assume they are fried.

I did the test Boskokid pointed me to on the repair website while in the "all lamps on" test mode: on 1J7 location, all the pins touched with my diode (unbanded side) lit my light socket and made it blink -BUT pin 4 (counting from the right to left at 1J7) made the light sooooper bright and blinking, so I think that is the associated transistor that needs replacing - I am guessing that the "full force" of wattage is getting to that light since it's so bright.

On 1J6, all the 8 pins lit the bulb normally and made it blink when I touched each 1J6 pin with the banded side of the diode, so it looks like there is not a problem with that lamp row, only the column?

Can the multi-meter measure the current on the individual TIP transistors?

In the manual the column suspect is 4, which is the lamps for all characters (Pinbot, Drac, Marilyn, Santa, Gorbie, Ride Again, Passengers Carried, and the Lock arrow on the right of the pf). There's a small Q80 on that column heading written-in in the manual matrix table so that is the corresponding transistor location, correct? There are also a range of numbers from 25 to 32 written next to each lamp name (Pinbot, etc.) in the manual not sure what that number is.

Looking at the game in play mode, it looks like all those lamps are brighter than they should be an pretty much ON all the time with a slight dimming where it should be blinking.

Hope this helps, would like to get this thing fixed. My CPU board has been repaired before from what looks like acid damage, a lot of the trace work has been "polished through" and looks silvery - up to now though I haven't had any problems with the game.

Thanks again for comments/help -

Nate

boscokid and herg, yes, that was a typo, - It is Q60, I am using a Taxi manual/schematic. I think it is the transistor, I will attempt the below tonight, but I have a question (see below):

"You should be able to work backwards from there, comparing identical points such as the output of R86 (that feeds Q60) with the output of R87 or R85 (identical circuits) - if those readings are all the same then you have proven Q60 is bad."

Question:What setting should I use on the Multi-meter for this test? And where does red/black lead go? Thanks, as you can see, I am learning as I go along - appreciate the input. I see that on the schematic, so I know where we are on the board - thanks.

Back to not getting any readings on some diodes, is it possible they are blown out? As I said, I got readings on some and not others, this is my first use of my multi-meter out-of-the-box new so could I be doing something wrong testing the diodes? I am putting the black probe on the banded side metal and the red side on the opposite side metal.

-Nate

Boscokid, thanks for the "hand holding" - I will trace that tonight with the probe and see what I get - hopefully it is only that isolated Q60!!!

Herg, thanks for the added input on the diodes - the bulbs were out of the ones tested, I think I'll hold off on any diodes until I get the transistor(s) replaced.

Best,

Nate

Ok, I tested the heat resistors R82-89 using the multi-meter set to DC, Volts - I used auto-range because I couldn't figure out how to make the range 20 - touched the right side (my right as I'm looking at the mounted board in the backbox I'm assuming......)with red and grounded the black on a corner screw.

If my meter is correct, it looks like all the resistors are fine, each showing 15 volts (I never did get 14).

Sooo, I'm guessing that only Q60 needs replacing.

Does this sound right?

Thanks boscokid, I can check the pins on 1J7, almost surely, that fourth pin will be putting out much more voltage. I'm assuming I measure the same way as I did the resistors? (DC, ground black, touch red to pin - game in attract mode......).

-Nate

Yep, that will tell me. I will check tonight.

I dunno about soldering on the board, I know that there are small metal discs around the actual CPU board that can sometimes get heated loose and cause contact problems. This happened to me on the small lamp board that sits beneath the spin-out ramp when I removed a bad light socket - although I wasn't too concerned about that becuase I replaced that lamp board with an LED strip.

Someone mentioned cutting the legs off of the old one, and for a temporary solution, just solder the new resistor legs onto the old ones that are already soldered onto the board - is this ok to do for a few weeks fix until after the holidays??

-N

Okaaaay, still messing with this problem, but hopefully closer.

I had a Pinsider resolder a new TIP at Q60 after bringing him the board. Glad I did because one of those tiny metal rings around where the TIP's legs are inserted lifted off when removing the old legs - sooo, he had to connect that leg directly to a trace - that's exactly what I thought would happen as this is an old board.......

Anyway, put the board back in last night, replaced the bulbs in the offending sockets (all Taxi characters) and........they still didn't light DOH! Why Youuuuuuu! Ok, it was late and I didn't do too much after that, I DID squeeze the diode from the bulbs not lighting and I got a VERY dim light coming from the bulb - so that is telling me that the diode is probably no good - correct assumption?

I have one new diode, so I will try replacing one this evening and see what happens. I also noticed some sockets are wonky, so will be replacing them as well.

Nate

There are two lights on that green board not working, (Carry Passengers and one of the "20k" squares in that green row above the characters) I haven't re-flowed that yet, but plan to - I assume you mean that ring where the socket screws, clamps down on? I did try making sure the metal leads on that screw-in socket were clean/pulled-out for good contact.

Blackbeard, Oh, I gotcha - thanks. Will try that.

Ok, someone mentioned maybe these sockets are not grounded properly?? I can't understand why all-of-a-sudden the bulbs are not working after I replaced the TIP on the board?

Anyway, they said to try running a clip from the ground braid to the socket, if it lights then it's a grounding problem. Either that or low voltage..........

I haven't done anything more with this, but will be looking at it tonight.

I'm done. I had that TIP replaced, I don't think it was done correctly because now all the lights don't come on at all. I ran that test again with the alligator clips, and now that Pin #4 doesn't light the bulb at all.............

Also, now my pop bumpers don't work at all.

I really would like someone to come to my house (Baltimore, MD 21234) and repair Taxi. If anyone can do this, PM me and let's set up a time.

-Nate

BoscoKid, I'm pretty sure the TIP is not soldered in correctly, I am getting absolutely no reading now when I test the pins with the light-bulb at pin 4 as I had before. I have called a local guy to come look at this for me - but naturally, he is very busy until after Christmas....

We did check the TIP and got the same readings as the other ones after the new one was installed, I really think that is the problem.

As I mentioned, now my pops (all of them!) are out (unrelated I know)............I did check the fuses, they look okay. Oh, also a wire came out of the socket connect for the PinBot drop targets (they are so brittle)!!! I feel like this thing is falling apart as I work on it - like a Laurel and Hardy short!!!

I tried metering the TIP's last night with board in machine, from what I could read (some legs I couldn't get to) the readings all checked out, I really think its the solder job! Just my luck.........

Urg.

KingDaddy, yes, I checked the fuses, as I said I pretty much isolated the bad transistor, once that was swapped out, now I get no power to that column at all.

Here's a pic I happened to have of the board - the board is back into my machine, so I will have to pull it again to get better photos, you can see where something was done to the board because the traces in that very area are sanded down.........I know this isn't a very good photo - just a "fill-in."

I tested those resistors also, all tested ok.

Board.jpg

Someone mentioned this:

Did you check the conicity from the legs of Q60? This may help to see if
when Q60 was shorted out, it also took out the Q59 Pre-Driver transistor
(2N6427) and possibly the U53 (7408) Quad Gate. On your manual's schematic
page 70, follow the path to the left from Q60. You will see it leads to Q59
and then to pin 6 on U53. If there is good conicity from the three legs of
Q60, and column 4 is still out, then Q59 and possibly U53 have been blown.

I will check this too.

kporter - thanks a lot for the support!! I need it. I am learning things - and yeah, I feel like a shipwrecked guy trying to save my buddy by performing surgery while talking to people on the shortwave!!! I can resurrect the physical appearance quite nicely, but when it comes down to the "innars" yike! Not so much.

Anyway, I will pull and reseat the breakers - I did not do that, I just looked at them to see if they were blown. Should I use the DMM on them somehow also? Which board sends power to the pops?

Eventually, this board will be gone over entirely and everything sured up. I may replace it at some point if that is recommended. I think my pin spent some of it's life in a wet storage area as the parts were rusty (but not horrible) and the bottom cabinet board is pot-bellied out, so this moisture obviously did a number on the board.

It has been working fine until I did the stoopid and fiddled with a socket while the power was on, I believe the socket touched the metal casing of the Lola drop target bank.

Hey, I'd rather not rely on a repair guy, I know that is expensive - I just have a short fuse and get frustrated easily.......

I appreciate everyone on this threat - thanks so much!!! I hope I don't bore you and that I can have some more news very soon given my busy schedule!

I have the instruction guide, I can find the continuity - I forget brand will check tonight.

Thanks simplykind also I'll look for that.

-N

Okay, I'm going to hold on right now. I just pulled the board to check out the soldering job, here's what I found. The TIP is wiggling, not in there tightly. That other section was damaged accidentally when the wrong thing was unsoldered(!).

I want to send the board out for some professional help - I hope it's not ruined. I want to stop making bad decisions and get things right. Will update when something *positive* happens.....

Blackbeard, I should have listened to you earlier!! I was just hoping to get this thing up and running for family when they come down for Christmas - good intentions..............oh well................

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Blackbeard, I have contacted Clive (FINALLY! He says !!).

Will keep you guys posted.............and hopefully will be happier!!!

tonyhoff1, the board worked fine before this solder job, and my blowing something................are these boards hard to find???

-Nate

Yes, YIKES! Is1chris. I could tell right away that this is not right, I paid for the repair (not much), and it was someone who offered to do it for me that is local. I'd own the mistake if it was me, but nah, it wasn't - I thought I was being cautious and getting someone else who would do it better - but I probably could've done it better!!!!

I am hoping that this board isn't ruined - we will see. I will repair if possible, or yeah, that's a costly mistake........

Blackbeard - haha! Yep, I'm tempted to do just that....Merry Christmas to me ya big dummie.......are the Rottendog boards reliable though? I got a flipper board from them that had problems...... Or where else are they available new??

Is1chris: I noticed that right away that the component side of the board had no soldering at all, anyway, yikes.

I'm waiting to hear back from a couple of board repair guys, will see what they think.

This board was working fine despite all the other corrosion on it, but if I have to purchase a new one - so be it.

Anyone recommend where I can get a Syst 11 board? I assume I have to transfer a lot of the roms............

-Nate

kporter - Looks like the Rottendog System 11 board I need is no longer available? Check distributors, they only have one type, and it is not for Taxi?.....

Thanks guys.

Thanks Ls1chris.........

Ok, Allan Davidson was first to reply out of my two inquiries about board work. He was recommended by my brother, who also had System 11 board work done by him and liked his work.

Allan says it is fixable - I just have to drop it in the mail to him tomorrow.

When I get it back I will update..... and...... hopefully....... - CLOSE this thread !!!

Thanks again everyone, love yah Pinsiders!!!

Boscokid - yep, lesson learned. Don't be too hasty #1. Part of my haste was knowing my brother would want to play as he is also into pinball - but I don't think it'll be done by then.

Yes, I have a feeling I wouldn't have done as bad a job, I actually have a board I pulled out of an old microwave, and will be practicing soon!

Again, appreciate all the monitoring on my posts, and as I say, I'll update what has transpired.

-Nate

Board is en route back to me. Sent it to Allan Davidson in MA.

Transistor, 2 diodes, and the resistor. A "stitch" technique used to ensure solid connections. If
you look closely, you will see wires soldered to the top side which go through the holes alongside
the transistor leads. Then everything is soldered from the bottom. Tested, no other issues found.

Happy Holidays everyone!!

-Nate

boscokid, sure can post photos. Don't know if it's coming today or not - but just happy that it's fixed. I think I'm one day shy of having it back before Christmas..........

Well, the board arrived today - that was unexpected! Here's some photos of the handi-work.

Nervous about firing it up! I got some replacement light sockets from Pinball Life so I can replace the pesky socket that started me down this pathway in the first place!!! Hope all will be good.

Enjoy the holidays!

-Nate

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Ummm, yeah, the board works - but "Woah Taxi!!" The lights are back in action, but now another headache.....

Now my pops just died!!!

Arrrgh, it just wasn't meant to be a Taxi kind of Christmas this year....... So what do I look for with the pops? I was getting a switch error on the bottom pop, couldn't see anything, and then all of a sudden they all stopped working?!?! I rebuilt these - solder connections are all good, what could be cutting off the juice to them????

Thanks,

Nate

Thanks guys, will check the transistors on the pops - and the fuse on the um............auxiliary driver board....................I assume that's in the backbox? Going to bed now, may be able to check in the am before leaving for Christmas festivities.

The transistor is on the leaf switches? Correct??

Thanks again, I will keep you posted.

Urrgh! (Insert Grinch graphic here!!!)

-Nate

Thanks, will take a look.

Merry Christmas/Happy Hoidays, Kwanza, etc. etc......

-Nate

Ok, F3 fuse is blowing, found that that was blown, replaced it, turned game on, fuse blew immediately. So that's part of the problem.

Visually inspected the pops, nothing looks amiss, no wires touching etc, etc, everything tight..........

What's next to look at? Something on the board there? Transistor tests I suspect...........

-Nate

I'll have to look again - although everything looks like it's ok............ Pretty sure it's not the board, he did diagnostics on it, said it was fine. It was starting to act up prior to my getting the board fixed, first was getting an error in diagnostics, something about a switch closed error, but I mistakenly thought it was the slings near the flippers (it mentioned the right jet bumper) - I am going to look more closely tomorrow and follow the wiring.

That board is actually pretty solid, doesn't look so hot with extreme close-up shots.............

Urgh.

Thanks everyone for continued help,

Nate

Thanks jmountjoy111 and schonb25. I have a local guy that can come over if I can't locate the issue.

Only thing is with the main board, the guy that works on them hooks the board up to some type of unit that goes through the entire thing and tests it to make sure it is al up and running ok. So I am stumped. I will do everything you recommended - I am hoping to find a wire touching something somewhere, but it really doesn't look like it.

I will test the transistors, I've done that before, so no problem - if nothing else, this has been a good learning experience and I will eventually get this worked out.

Thanks again for all the help, I really appreciate it, hope you are enjoying the Holidays.......

-Nate

Marc, understood, will try to get to the bottom of this today!!!

-Nate

Thanks schonb25, I'm heading down to take a look, wish me luck!!

Will run the tests and report back later this evening........

Nate

kporter.....

Thanks, I'm not surprised that they are not working, just surprised that they are dead and that now a fuse is blowing. I was at least getting two that were working, the bottom one was out but other two were ok - now it's nothing. In diagnostics, I had "right bumper 19 Switch Levels" error but I had no clue what the "right bumper" was and was thinking it was the right slingshot - which I inspected at the time and didn't see anything wrong.

I have since the board work - inspected all coils, solder jobs, wiring, and don't see anything bent, touching, etc. I did find that Red/White wire and inspected - looks fine as far as I can see.

I used the DMM on the coil lugs and got solid readings on all three. Physically moved the sleeve inside the coil and did not feel any resistance, etc.

I have actually pulled the aux driver board - here's a photo. You can see a couple of things.

1. Fuse F3 is the one that keeps blowing. (I will be buying a box of these for backup while trouble shooting, I only have 3 new ones).
2. Look at the sand resistor at R9 - it appears that there is some brown/black discoloration on the board above it, how do I measure that with the DMM? I know those things get hot, so it could be just from heat as the "sandy" side of that is pointing up so it would travel across the board like the dark "sooty" pattern shows.

I took a photo of my DMM - when I set it to hFE to measure the transistors, I get a reading of "55" when placing probe on top and other probe at left and right legs - all of them are reading this so it looks like they are ok.

What setting would I use to measure the diodes again? Black goes on banded side....?

Also read that faulty diodes can cause pop bumper coils to stop and that broken diodes can send a spike back to the board (so maybe that's why my fuse keeps blowing immediately when I flip the power on)?

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Ok, spent a LOT of time examining everything beneath the pf. Coils are all ok, diodes all ok, no wires touching metal, etc. etc. Only thing I found were two white wires coming from the right pop where some of the insulation was sheared off and wire exposed, I wrapped each with electrical tape to keep them from touching - there wasn't that much actual wire exposed so I really doubt that that was a short, but you never know how they move around once you let the pf down into level position.

I am going to take Is1chris' advice and re-install the board tomorrow minus the J11 plugged in, fire it up and see what happens. I have a feeling it is not the board, it looks really good and everything tested ok with the DMM.

As usual, thanks for the help. Took some time off to finish watching Midnight Cowboy - man, what a movie, really enjoyed it! Great shots of 42nd street in NY during it's "grimy glory(hole) days."

-Nate

As a test, just find any 2 lug coil under the playfield, put the leads on either lug, set to ohms, and you should see a rock solid reading >3 ohms.

I followed the above quote - all looked good on the readings.

Good idea on the fusebreaker, will get on that.

Board tech went over entire board, he hooks it up to simulate an install and puts it through a "stress test" to make sure all components are ok. I'm pretty sure the board is fine.

It looks like the aux driver board is also good. I know there is ??? about diode testing while they are connected, I didn't remove one end of diode, but tested them attached, all read fine. Thinking maybe something on the switch stack is bad, I also looked at the slings, they look ok, but will re-look at them today.

Man, I wish it was something simple - I will keep looking with the proverbial "fine toothed comb"!!!

Urrrrgh!

Thanks again for all the help. Will do what Chris suggested and see what happens, will be out today - try to get some fuses also.

-Nate

Marc, will be doing this today, am going to pick up a circuit breaker to install so I don't have to keep blowing fuses.

Sorry, I am all over the map, will try to be more succinct in my observations and recording them.

-Nate

Ok, here's a more controlled report:

1. Visually inspected Left and Right slingshots, gap between contacts is good, soldering is good, no metal, exposed wires crossed, etc.

2. Visually inspected all 3 pops - found same to be true as #1, no issues.

3. Re-installed the aux driver board with new fuse and left plug J11 unplugged.

4. Turned on machine, the fuse did NOT blow.

5. Got message that I have been getting but ignoring when machine was playing fine: "Press Adv Button for Test Report"

6. I pressed the Advance button inside the coin door.

7. Got these messages: "Check switch 19 / Left Bumper" and "Check switch 43 / Spinout Kicker"

8. Turned off machine, visually inspected switch 43.

9. Ran switch level and switch edge test on switch 43, they seemed to respond when I pressed the switch down (I removed the switch from pf in order to do this as it normally sits beneath the spinout dish and is impossible to get to).

10. I did not check 19 / Left Bumper as I am not sure which that is referring to.

11. Turned off machine and came upstairs to post results to you guys.

So, I am thinking that it is not the board, based on the test of leaving the plug off the board. So I think that is good news.

Please tell me my next step and I will follow. I simply can't see anything wrong beneath the pf???!!!!

Thank you again, again, etc.....

Nate

Blackbeard, good question, I will have to go back and check the other switches in that row 3. I don't think they work, I couldn't start a game "credit button," "ball wouldn't eject into shooter lane or move into position if fed between flippers "ball trough" - R. Jet bumper not working (all of them but that might be the problem child there), Middle drop targets (have to check), Catapult (have to check).

I was assuming that was because I did not have the auxillary board plugged in at J11, so am not getting some of the "functionality."

Everything in the switch matrix checks out with that plug location on the aux board, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Ok, now what? Should I try plugging in J11 w/o the pesky R Jet Bumper wired (desolder so it isn't active)? Then, if the other things work, I know it is something to do with that and just re-build the damn thing.......

Here's what I've done since last post:

1. Ran diagnostics again after re-installing switch for spinout kickout, I simply clicked the switch a few times manually, made sure nothing was touching anything else on the switch solder job itself, and re-installed the switch. Error for that switch went away when turning machine on.

2. Uncoupled switch stack on R Jet Bumper, visually inspected, looked ok. Re-installed. Turned machine on, error for that switch remains when test report prompt came up again when machine powered on.

3. Found plugs on the CPU board at 1J10 and 1J8, reseated them, checked if pins were loose, they were not.

4. Manual mentions test for "Playfield or CPU?" where you jumper between (I'm guessing pin locations) at J10 and J8 while in switch test. Does this mean I can touch one end of alligator to the pin associated with r pop and it should indicate the switch "activating?" I'm not clear on this.

5. What exactly IS the switch on a pop bumper???

Here are two photos, I bought a new switch stack (partial) and compared to the old one, it has a diode in the center of the stack once you add the other components on top of it, and it doesn't have a preinstalled blue metal cannister and another banded resistor like my old one - should I test these two "resistors" if that's the right term on the switch stack.

I made some rough notes in blue on the original switch stack compared to the new "half" of one.....

I also bought extra diodes, should I replace the diodes since it appears hard to get a good reading unless you uncouple one end from the switch stack.

What is my next step?

Thanks,

Nate

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Ok, I tested all the switches in row 3: Credit button, ball trough 1, R Jet Bumper, Middle bank DT (left), Catapult, Top Kicker.

ALL of these are working in Switch Edge test, when I physically activated the switches at these spots. I don't know where the switches are for the Jet Bumpers, so that one I did not "engage" manually.

I got no indications of any switches stuck "on" when running the Switch Levels test.

Remember, I still have NOT plugged in J11 which we are thinking causes the fuse to blow on the Aux Driver Board.

What next?

Nate

Yes, unfortunately just an optical illusion, that diode is ok. First thing I looked for. But good to know they should not be touching anything - I'll check that.

Also, thanks for the pop switch tutorial, was pressing the plastic apron only, will try pushing the ring down.

-Nate

schonb25 -

Thanks, that is really good advice, I will do that today - gotta get this problem solved!! Kporter also found a great Taxi thread with exact same problem and it turned out to be the knocker coil affecting everything (!)! Will try that also.

Thanks guys, will keep trying, appreciate your hanging in there with me!!

-Nate

Okay! Looks like it is indeed the knocker. I did unplug the Molex connector, turned on the machine, and presto - had pop bumpers and everything working, and was not requested to push the Advance button for a test report.

HOWEVER:

There is still an issue.

I installed a brand-new socket at Lola, the blinking GI that is on during attract mode.

I noticed that after the instal, and with a brand-new bulb in there, that connection was not "blinking" as it should be (never totally off) (Yes, this is a regular incadescent bulb), and that now the "Ride Again" light was intermittently coming on and off as well.

I took out the bulb from Lola and the Ride Again light was back and behaving properly.

What the hell?!?!

I will deal with the knocker also, I will take a picture later today and see if it is installed correctly.

One issue I haven't bothered with since I got the pinball is that none of the "Award categories" that are supposed to light up on the speaker/score display panel (the small squares with Extra Ball etc printed on them) they are all dead. Bulb test does not light them either.

I will look at that board, I did replace all the bulbs.

Any ideas about the socket? I will post a photo of that as well.

Arrrrgh! But at least it is playable!

Thanks,

Nate

Here's a pic of the new socket and an existing one that works: I can't see any difference to the other "character bulbs."

I had to sketch in the diode on an existing socket that works as it was too close to camera lens, but the banded side is on same lug as two wires, opposite end on a lug by itself.......weird........

Also, here is the knocker, not much to that, do I have the rod that sits inside pointed in the right direction? Metal up, plastic down? I guess I can check the coil on that, doesn't look like there is anything else that can go bad on that one.

I'm going to have the quietest Taxi, my bell never has worked and now the knocker is out......Shhhhhh, hey Taxi, psssst.

-Nate

knocker_(resized).jpg

socket1_(resized).jpg

socket2_(resized).jpg

Ah-ha! Ok, great (doh!) I can turn the coil around, does the knocker inside look right? I would think the metal points up the way I have it.....

Thanks,

Nate

Yes, yes, I did burn through the wire insulation a little bit, was thinking about re-wiring/soldering that one.

That other socket, believe it or not, is acting fine, was just using that for reference.

Aw, man, I'll look where the driver is for the knocker - but you are correct, for now I've got the glass on and playing a few games........

Will get that knocker turned around the right way!!!1

-Nate

kporter, I'll try that, thanks.

Will report back.

-Nate

Okay! Finally! What started this entire mess is fixed. Kporter you are right, and thanks for the photo. Looking closely at the socket, I did have the wired reversed. This is the way the "original" socket was installed, so someone messed-up and i just repeated the problem when following the wires for the re-solder of the new socket.

Lola blinks now. Whew.

Getting an unrelated headache now, it appears that my Molex connectors are not making sufficient contact on the drop targets for Lola and Pinbot. These are the "stuff n crimp" kind, so I imagine the contacts are tarnished, and the wires are probably wearing through. What's the best type of connector to replace these with? Do I pin each end of the wire, insert the pins into a new plastic housing, (for male) plug that into a "double female plug" and put the other female end onto the drop opto board?

If I fiddle around with the plugs, the problem temporarily goes away, but after a few games, re-appears so the movement of the drops is just enough to loosen those very loose connections.

-Nate

Thanks kporter and Blackbeard!

Yes, I'm proud of myself, and i really appreciate everyone's help. Thanks again!!

I should mention that both of the drop opto boards are *brand new* so I really doubt it's cold solder joints (at least I would hope not!). But thanks for pointing that out, as it will come in handy when I purchase my next pin (haha!!).

I'm going to re-do the connectors based on the fact that the boards are new, and that wiggling the actual wires seemed to temporarily stop the problem.

Lola was the main culprit, I wasn't getting any scoring from knocking the targets down, and the targets would keep popping "up" although they were already in the up position. Last time, it was something new, the Pinbot targets crapped out - I'll tell you what happens when I re-do the connectors.

Yowsa! I don't know if I need quite that many connectors!!

Was I right about the sequence though? metal pin on each cut wire, insert into male socket, use female socket to fit onto one end of male socket, other end gets plugged into the opto board end?

Also, these wires are "looped" with no end the way they are done now - do I cut the loop and make an "end" by twisting the two pieces together and then crimping the pin over them??

I can practice re-flowing the solder on the old opto boards which I kept. Boy, I know how to have FUN!! hahahha!

Happy New Year guys........

Nate

Allen:

Happy New Year! Thanks for checking in.........appreciate all your help and the sooper quick turnaround on the board.

Will keep you in mind if something else goes awry!!!

-Nate

kporter:

Will do, so it's ok to re-crimp the wires with a new connector? Gotcha. I assumed the crimping method was not the best........

Happy New Year!

Nate

kporter, sorry, i'm not really "schooled" in the lingo just yet. i thought "crimping" was pushing the wires into the socket so that the contacts cut into the wire - but I think "crimping" means putting the metal ends onto the wires.

Anyone know what molex connector I need to use? Or are they just sold by number of pins? Guess i'll get one of those "shover inners" you posted a pic of also (now how's THAT for lingo?).

Man, went to see Star Wars today - NOPE sold out!!!

-N

Thanks kporter, will shoot a photo today while putzing around in my basement - no offense taken - you are my pinball protective angel!!! hahaha!

Take it easy - check back.

-Nate

Okay here is a photo of both connectors on the drop target boards.....

1_(resized).jpg

5_(resized).jpg

Yes, that is temporarily taped, I soldered the wire back together, it had actually snapped-off at that point (the wires are "dry rotted" I'd guess from being so old?.......). I have shrink tubing to put around the wire to do it correctly, I just haven't done everything necessary since I'm still fiddling around with the wires........

I did notice that that same green wire doesn't look fully seated into the connector after posting that picture. I will get that tool so I can get those little buggers in there tightly.

Now, when you say cut the wires off about an 1/8th of an inch, do you mean expose the wires (cut the insulation away) and then re-install the exposed wire portion, or........?

Another order to Pinball Life, some of my switches are "wonky" also, the spinout switch keeps giving an error......

Thanks again for the input. Anybody know how to change the post title of this thread???

-Nate

Hey nerdygrrl, say "Hi" to Ben next time you see him! Heard your Swords of Fury pf looks grrreat!

Anyway, ok, I see what you mean. In my second photo, those are the ends of the wires placed into the connector slots (on the left-hand side connector). I snip the ends off, and "re-stuff" them using the handy tool I am ordering.

There is another connector, one where the wires are a continuous loop (see right-hand connector), I was getting those confused with the other wires on the left-hand side. For those looped wires (ie: there is no "end" I should probably remove them and "re-stuff" them in a new spot for a "fresh" connection?

Blackbeard - I hear you, those connectors will be brittle, I will take extra care with them............

-Nate

Gotcha Blackbeard, haven't been able to fiddle with this yet, but will report back.

As usual, thanks everyone!

Okaaaay, I tried re-seating the wires, and I'm STILL getting no response now from the Marilyn drop targets. I ordered that plastic punchy thingy and took out the wires, re-seated them in a different spot.

The Marilyn drops "pulse" (machine keeps trying to put them into "Up" position although they are already up). The targets don't registered once hit.

Hmmm, should I buy new connectors and try that? I'm thinking some of the metal inside is corroded so it's not making a good connection. Or is there a way to clean them?

-nate

Thanks nerdygrrl and Blackbeard, I will run the switch test with the pf propped up and see what happens.. I can also swap the boards and see what happens. Will report back.

These are brand new boards, and I wasn't getting this problem once upon a time, so I am leaning towards some type of connector/wiring problem. I recall wiggling the wires on the connectors initially after putting in the new boards, and the problem did go away for a time.......urrrgh!

Good gloomy, rainy day to do this, finally have some time.

Thanks for your help - hoping to get this friggin' thing up and running as I love Taxi!!

-Nate

Okay, ran the switch test and manually dropped the Marilyn targets, and they all registered. Hmmmm, then I moved the wires by hand in the connectors, lo and behold I was getting readings on the targets from wiggling the two wires attached to the smaller socket. soooo, I removed those wires again, re-seated them again, and the problem stopped! Wow.

Thanks for everyone's help, I always forget about running those diagnostic tests.

Now if I can only figure out why I'm getting a "Check spinout switch" every time I turn on the machine.......that and fix my tilt mech and my bell.....and.....at least I can play it now!!!

Oh yeah, my GoldenEye magnet on the satellite is no longer working - now to start another thread....geeez............

Will do, I am probably going to purchase new connectors, boscokid, I actually removed the wires and reinserted them at a different location, now they are nice and tight (for now anyway!!).

Thanks for all the help!!!

Yes, they do. That's why I'm stumped. It works.........also working correctly is the catapult from after the ball exits the spinout.

Vector, thank you - I will run the test and see what I get. If it is "wired normally closed" does that mean the wires are soldered on "backwards" and should be reversed?

-Nate

wayout440 thanks a bunch.

I have a feeling this is the problem - will check into it.

Nice to see the inside of a switch finally!