(Topic ID: 146108)

HELP - Taxi!!

By Pinball_Nate

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 181 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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#37 8 years ago

No. Tony is saying to look at the connector on that light board.

Do this: flip up playfield and go into diagnostics to test all lights at same time. Then careful jiggle the connector to that green light board. If those lights in question lite up when jiggling, you need to reflow that connector.

#43 8 years ago

Contact Clive at coin op cauldron.

Stop wasting your time and sanity.

#56 8 years ago

Send it to Clive. It's probably repairable. He's a professional. It's not a side job for him.

If it's not repairable he will tell you. At that point you can look for a replacement.

#60 8 years ago

I'd send it to clive asking him to give an immediate assessment whether it's repairable or not. If it is, he only charges like $80 or so.

If it's not repairable, spend the loot for a replacement.

OR you could just say the hell with it and buy a replacement now, have it sent overnight, and be playing in a couple days! (Merry Xmas to Nate?)

Up to you.

#69 8 years ago

https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-mpu011a-for-williams-bally-system-11.html

Ks Arcade (Keith) is a good guy and frequents this site.

1 week later
#81 8 years ago

Well?

Yo taxi?

#83 8 years ago

Fuse?

#90 8 years ago

Visually inspect the wiring from pops back to cpu. Something is shorting.

Are we sure your board guys work isn't causing this? The board was pretty bad off as I recall.

Were pops working before sending out board?

#106 8 years ago

Is it possible it is the board, and not transistors but pre driver transistors?

How thorough of a job did the board tech do?

#114 8 years ago

Everything else on switch row 3 works?

#117 8 years ago

Slow down. Plug everything back in.

Go into diagnostics and test those switches in row 3.

It is sounding like a whole row is out which means it's most likely something easily fixed.

So. Go check those switches. Report back.

#139 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Okay! Finally! What started this entire mess is fixed. Kporter you are right, and thanks for the photo. Looking closely at the socket, I did have the wired reversed. This is the way the "original" socket was installed, so someone messed-up and i just repeated the problem when following the wires for the re-solder of the new socket.
Lola blinks now. Whew.
Getting an unrelated headache now, it appears that my Molex connectors are not making sufficient contact on the drop targets for Lola and Pinbot. These are the "stuff n crimp" kind, so I imagine the contacts are tarnished, and the wires are probably wearing through. What's the best type of connector to replace these with? Do I pin each end of the wire, insert the pins into a new plastic housing, (for male) plug that into a "double female plug" and put the other female end onto the drop opto board?
If I fiddle around with the plugs, the problem temporarily goes away, but after a few games, re-appears so the movement of the drops is just enough to loosen those very loose connections.
-Nate

yeah Porters a good one. We keep him around here. Knows his stuff. And he has my old taxi!

As for your drop targets: It sounds like cold solder joints. Both taxi's I've owned had this issue as those drops are used a lot, especially the lola targets. Here's what I would do: pull out each drop target assembly (work on one at a time). Reflow the solder on the male connectors on the pcb boards. You have cold solder joints I'd bet my life.

Does lola coil always sound like it's resetting? Or it just doesn't reset? Cold solder joints on the male header pins of the drop target opto board. Easy fix (just a bit time consuming yanking the assemblies out)

#141 8 years ago

Also, while you have those assemblies out, it's a good time to clean them off. I just yanked two police force (same assemblies) to do the same yesterday. Makes the targets slide down great! Lots of e clips...

Also, very important: run a q tip inside those optos to clean them. Add some windex to the qtips. Cleaning those optos is a great idea.

#143 8 years ago

I've had a few system 11 pins that needed the joints reflowed on these drop assemblies. It's very common nate. Just pull them out, clean them, and reflow the male headers on the little green opto boards.

#156 8 years ago

To me the ends of the wires going into the connectors look hard and inflexible meaning they're probably hampering the current flow. (Toasty)

I would just reuse those connectors but cut the wires off like an 1/8 inch and tuck the wires back in with the tool porter pictured.

#158 8 years ago

Is that electrical tape on the green too?

#161 8 years ago

What I mean is this: the ends of those wires (the ends that are connected into the connectors) look brittle and unflexible. Pull each wire out of it's slot, cut it off (cut off the brittle ends, like an 1/8 of an inch), and restuff them into their slots using the punch tool.

Be careful using that tool. I'm anticipating you having trouble punching the wiring back tight as you won't have a good hard surface to use. You'll have to use the palm of your hand to hold the connector. WHen done correctly, the wire will sorta pop down into place. Problem is is that those connectors are sometimes brittle. Try to be careful.

#163 8 years ago

For the looped ones, I generally just reloop in a different spot.

Hopefully this ends the issue! Keep us posted.

2 months later
#167 8 years ago

This is prob an issue problem. Did you clean the Optos on the drop target with qtips dipped in windex?

Test those drop targets in switch test and see what results you get. You have to prop up pf to test as you'll have to reset the targets by hand. Test each many times. See if they register each time etx.

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