Blackbeard, good question, I will have to go back and check the other switches in that row 3. I don't think they work, I couldn't start a game "credit button," "ball wouldn't eject into shooter lane or move into position if fed between flippers "ball trough" - R. Jet bumper not working (all of them but that might be the problem child there), Middle drop targets (have to check), Catapult (have to check).
I was assuming that was because I did not have the auxillary board plugged in at J11, so am not getting some of the "functionality."
Everything in the switch matrix checks out with that plug location on the aux board, but correct me if I'm wrong.
Ok, now what? Should I try plugging in J11 w/o the pesky R Jet Bumper wired (desolder so it isn't active)? Then, if the other things work, I know it is something to do with that and just re-build the damn thing.......
Here's what I've done since last post:
1. Ran diagnostics again after re-installing switch for spinout kickout, I simply clicked the switch a few times manually, made sure nothing was touching anything else on the switch solder job itself, and re-installed the switch. Error for that switch went away when turning machine on.
2. Uncoupled switch stack on R Jet Bumper, visually inspected, looked ok. Re-installed. Turned machine on, error for that switch remains when test report prompt came up again when machine powered on.
3. Found plugs on the CPU board at 1J10 and 1J8, reseated them, checked if pins were loose, they were not.
4. Manual mentions test for "Playfield or CPU?" where you jumper between (I'm guessing pin locations) at J10 and J8 while in switch test. Does this mean I can touch one end of alligator to the pin associated with r pop and it should indicate the switch "activating?" I'm not clear on this.
5. What exactly IS the switch on a pop bumper???
Here are two photos, I bought a new switch stack (partial) and compared to the old one, it has a diode in the center of the stack once you add the other components on top of it, and it doesn't have a preinstalled blue metal cannister and another banded resistor like my old one - should I test these two "resistors" if that's the right term on the switch stack.
I made some rough notes in blue on the original switch stack compared to the new "half" of one.....
I also bought extra diodes, should I replace the diodes since it appears hard to get a good reading unless you uncouple one end from the switch stack.
What is my next step?