(Topic ID: 231497)

Help! Sys11 Bally Game Show sling issue


By northerndude

4 months ago



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  • 12 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by northerndude
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 months ago

Hey System 11 and general tech pros! I bought a Bally Game Show in June, played it 5 times and it "blew up" Well, died. I was busy all summer, didn't care much and was refurbing my FT, so GS was on the back burner, forward a few months and now i'm at it!

In June, when it blew, the right sling was stuck on, I mean stuck right on. I got the power killed, but it had smoked a transitor, I had the board out to get repaired (corrosion and a couple other issues) and the repair cost was high enough it was feasible to buy a new rottendog (it hurt my soul to toss this much $$ at this GS, but what the hell do ya do.......)

Brand new MPU installed. Right sling coil replaced, ripped entire PF down, cleaned everything up, shopped the hell out of it, removed bubbled up mylar, waxed, shiny, new LED's, flame polished ramps. POWERED BACK UP TONIGHT and right sling locked on instantly, I had my finger on the switch and killed it instantly. I pulled the IDE connector off of J7 on the Aux Power Board. Powered it back up, came up nicely, booted, told me missing pinball of course I was...

It goes into attract mode nicely and I can go through the entire settings menu. Now, where do I start? Suggestions? Somehting making that coil hit? Something else shorted out somewhere? Thx so much in advance.

northerndude - sorry for being so long winded

#2 4 months ago

You sent out the CPU board for repair, but in fact your problem is on the aux power supply. You will need to replace the coil diode and the driver transistor. Both of these parts are on the aux power supply.

#3 4 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You sent out the CPU board for repair, but in fact your problem is on the aux power supply. You will need to replace the coil diode and the driver transistor. Both of these parts are on the aux power supply.

The CPU was bad either way, wasn't going to be able to skirt around that....The corrosion was bad enough one of the displays didn't work, but now both are crystal clear.

BUT, sure I can swap out coil diode and driver transistor if I have to! I'll so some looking in my manual

#4 4 months ago

Check Q-8 and D-5 on the aux power supply.

#5 4 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check Q-8 and D-5 on the aux power supply.

Thank you, my MM battery was shot, need to grab 9v for it. I'll grab numbers and find my bad spots, appreciate showing where to start, or I guess where to finish

While i'm repairing this...is there any usual targets on it for failure? The BR's usually solid? I'll swap anything that makes sense. these are almost 30 yrs old

#6 4 months ago

Check to see if the jumpers are zero ohm resistors or not. If they are resistors then replace them with a paper clip. Reflow the AC relay joints.

#7 4 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check to see if the jumpers are zero ohm resistors or not. If they are resistors then replace them with a paper clip. Reflow the AC relay joints.

for real on the 0 ohm resistors? get rid of them? THere's four of them, use a piece of paper clip?

#8 4 months ago

This board had the pops and the shaker motor stop working, jumper W-4 zero ohm resistor went open only during a current draw. It would show voltage on both sides making it look like it was still good. So if you have the board out just change them.

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#9 4 months ago

Ok. I did some testing and some reading.
For the testing, the diode at D5 and all other diodes on board are testing right on the money.

BUT the transistor at Q8 like Grumpy mentioned, is not testing correct. I went across the pins of all of the transistors on board and got + or - the same result across all common legs of them, but I have a short across the centre leg and right leg of Q8.

Now as a follow up, I was trying to learn about transistors and see that these on the board look like MOSFET, and the one that's there, (and probably been replaced before) is different, could that be why it went already? Do they have different properties than a mosfet? I ordered a few TIP36C transitors from mouser today already so i'd have some in place for now and later but maybe I didn't get the right item?

Thx again!

*edit - found a bad diode at D12 also!
& D23
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#10 4 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

see that these on the board look like MOSFET

They are not mosfets, just larger transistors. You ordered the correct part

Quoted from northerndude:

For the testing, the diode at D5 and all other diodes on board are testing right on the money.

Replace it any way its .07 cents. Always replace a diode when a coil locks on.

#11 4 months ago
Quoted from northerndude:

*edit - found a bad diode at D12 also!
& D23

D-23 isn't bad, the coil from the AC relay made it test bad in circuit but it will test good out of circuit.

#12 4 months ago

D12 & D5 replaced the diodes. Have the transistor removed and Just waiting for the replacement transistor on the mail now from mouser.

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