So, the switch matrix on my White Water became completely unresponsive, save for the dedicated ground switches (Test buttons, flippers, and coin slots). This issue seems to have been caused by an incident earlier this week.

I was playing the game and everything was working perfectly, except for the left sling which kept firing too easily. So, I pulled the playfield to adjust the switch. After putting the playfield back and turning on the machine, I heard a small click (Which I initially assumed was just a plastic settling, and maybe it was, but I now wonder if it could have been a component frying), and it wouldn't boot. The testing screen showed up, the bar filled, and the bong played, but it wouldn't go past that. Machine was completely unresponsive and Big Foot's head never spun either. The GI still lit up. I tried restarting the machine a few times, but there was no change. I also *think* I also smelled something in the back box...

I immediately checked the fuses and found that, while none were burnt, quite a few were incorrect. I had been meaning to check all the fuses since bringing the game home a few weeks ago, but I was having too much fun and kept putting it off... The incorrect fuses were:

F113 - Had a 5A fast blow, manual says it should be slow blow
F114 - Had a slow blow fuse instead of a normal/fast blow fuse.
F115 - Fuse was labeled 32 VOLTS and BUSS AGC 5. I'm not sure what it was but I'm guessing it was 5 amps... And a 3/4 amp fuse is supposed to go there.
F901: Had a 3A fast blow, should be slow blow
F902: Had a 2 1/2A slow blow, should be 3A
F904: Had a 5A slow blow, should be 3A

After that I ordered all the correct fuses that I didn't have on hand, and I didn't power on the machine again until today when I received the fuses and corrected everything. I also checked under the playfield near the left sling (I didn't see anything suspicious, but I did move things around a little) and pushed on all the plugs in the backbox boards to make sure everything was in all the way.

So, now when I power on the machine, it successfully boots up, but it gives the "Check fuses F114 and F115 message" and a Bigfoot Error. Going into the switch matrix test shows a completely empty and unresponsive matrix, again besides the dedicated ground switches. Everything else works fine from the test menus. Fuses 114 and 115 are still good (Of course, if there had been a short while the old fuses were installed, it wouldn't have been stopped by either of those...). I'm getting 11.86 VDC on TP3 and LEDs 6 and 1 are both lit. There are a few things unplugged in the backbox, but I think they've been like that since I got the machine. It has a Color DMD and upgraded speakers so I'm not entirely sure which plugs should be unplugged. I'll include pics of the boards and the unplugged cables. I suppose there's a chance that an important cable just got unplugged somehow and I just didn't notice, but again I have no idea what's supposed to be plugged in and what isn't. I covered all the plugs that weren't already covered with electrical tape, just to be safe.

I was following the Pinwiki guide for the check fuses error, but I haven't completely gone through it yet since the entire switch matrix being out seems to be a significantly worse issue than just getting the check fuses error, and checking Q1 seems like a huge pain...

A couple other things worth mentioning are that I finished putting the machine back together a few days before this started (I took it apart to clean the playfield, so not a major tear down, mainly just the ramps and upper playfield were removed), and when I finished one of the optos in the lost mine kickout broke (The bulb's leads snapped off). The night before the incident I soldered a new opto board on the switch wires and the game was working perfectly after that.

So, I think that covers pretty much everything I know at the moment. Thanks in advance for any help, I could really use it!

IMG_20200307_174230.jpg
IMG_20200307_174237.jpg
D20 is blinking

The unplugged cables:
IMG_20200307_174127.jpgIMG_20200307_174114.jpgIMG_20200307_174101.jpgIMG_20200307_174047.jpg

Hmm, nothing stands out to me as being broken. Any guides on how I can go about testing U20?

IMG_20200307_184155.jpg

J210 is getting just under 12V, so that seems fine. I don't have any jumper wires on hand so I'm going to head to the store and grab some. I'll update when I get back and finish your test.

Well, I couldn't find a proper jumper wire, so I just used a test lead. I slid the plug over J208-1 and used the probe on J206 pins. I didn't get any results. I made sure to press against the plug to ensure it was contacting J208-1.

So if U20 is bad, what's my best course of action? Would it be a good idea to replace the board with a Rottendog or something, or would you recommend just having this one repaired?

Thanks for your help, I've reached out to a few people for repairs. I'll definitely have NVRAM installed as well, I was already thinking about getting that done before any of these issues even started.

Got my boards back from repair (I also sent in the power driver board to be refurbished), the game is now working great! Thanks again for the help!