Quoted from KickahaOta:

You should definitely start with the Vengeance Assembly exploded drawings on pages B27 through B30 of the manual. If you don't have the manual you can download it from https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Star-Trek-Pro-Manual.pdf .

Quoted from KickahaOta:

You should definitely start with the Vengeance Assembly exploded drawings on pages B27 through B30 of the manual. If you don't have the manual you can download it from https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Star-Trek-Pro-Manual.pdf .

Quoted from LTG:

A couple thoughts.
Do the hex posts reach the threaded parts sticking up ?
Do you have to remove the hex posts from the ship and fasten them down first and then screw the ship on ? If fastened tight to the ship, they won't turn.
LTG : )

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

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According to the manual, the hex post should be a solid piece with a threaded post on one side to screw into the frame; if I has to guess I would say yours are broken.

Quoted from pinballcorpse:

As posted above, the hex post is a male/female. They are broken.
The fix is straightforward and you can get some common parts from Home Depot, ACE, etc. This has been on my Premium game for years after my ship blew apart. (I literally destroyed the Vengeance in multiball, it was pretty awesome)
1) Remove the 2 broken shaft stubs in the lower frame. They should unscrew with a pair of small pliers. These were originally attached to the hex spacers. After removing the stubs, you will notice the frame has 2 threaded holes.
2) Unscrew the 2 hex head fasteners that are threaded through the plastic top. To remove, hold on to the hex spacer shaft and use an Allen key (hex key) to remove the fastener.
3) Use 2 plastic cylindrical spacers and (2) 8-32 machine screws to attach the plastic top to the lower frame. The cylindrical plastic spacer needs a hole at least large enough for the screw shaft. It does not need to be exact. A little larger is ok. I’m sorry I don’t recall the exact size I used. I want to say 1/2” tall and the screw 1” long. I don’t recall. The 8-32 threading is important. Use machine screws not wood or sheet metal screws. The screws will tighten into the threaded receiver in the frame and hold the plastic in place.
I’ve attached a couple pictures. You can see the spacer and threaded part of the screw extending below the frame.
Granted it’s not the exact same configuration, but the spacers are essentially not visible and machine head versus the hex head is an aesthetic. Nonetheless you can do this in the meantime while you get your original parts. It is completely reversible and will not take that long to fix.
Good luck and enjoy.
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