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(Topic ID: 8399)

Help Space Jam / Whitestar issues


By Atomicboy

9 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by GWK4TX
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

I’m trying to repair a Sega Space Jam for someone. The game resets after about 30 seconds of play. I have checked and re-seated all power connectors, reflowed suspect headers on the driver, bridges tested out fine (surprisingly), and changed and cleaned one top right connector that had severe battery corrosion, which I thought for sure was the issue.

The display power connector is completely loose, yet, the display works fine, as in the headers must all be completely broken. The display was working completely (prior to resetting) until I disconnected and reconnected things on the driver board and DMD controller, and now the display only comes on with the rom version info, and nothing else. I replaced the 5v connector, but no change.

I tried booting without the display plugged in, as with the loose connector, I thought for sure something was dragging something down, but no change in the resets.

I’m not familiar with whitestar boards, but did a bit of research. I also tried the driver in my TSPP, and although it ran with displays and started a game, it would not spit out a ball, and only a few lights were active in the inserts. This was prior to replacing the connector (I can’t recall which one, second from the top right, across the top).

The only other thing I can try, given my research, is adjusting and upping the 5v pot. What else should I look for? The guy is an hour away from me, so I’ve been trying to figure this out between visits, but I’m thinking now, being more severe, I may have to bring the machine home with me to work on and try to get going.

#2 9 years ago

Check the 5 volt, you can addapt it with potmeter R116
or recheck BRDG21

Reset Circuitry:
The I/O will reset in three (3) cases:
1. The CPU is in reset. The CPU’s reset signal is fed into the I/O through connector J1 and forces
the I/O into reset.
2. The 5v supply has fallen below 4.75v.
3. The watchdog is not being fed by the scanning of the light matrix. More specifically Pin-19 of U6
must be toggling once every 50ms to prevent the watchdog from resetting. The scanning of the
light matrix is controlled by the CPU through J1.

LED L204 shows the reset state of the I/O Board. If this LED is not lit either the 5v DC is below 4.75v or the
CPU/Sound Board is holding the I/O in reset. If the LED is flashing this means that the watchdog is not being feed
by the CPU/Sound Board and the I/O is oscillating into and out of reset. If the LED is continuously on the board is
out of reset and communication from the CPU to the lamp matrix is confirmed. Testpoint Blanking is the actual
reset signal on the I/O Board. A low voltage indicates that it is in reset this will turn off all Solenoid (Coil) Drivers,
Flash Lamps, Lamp Matrix Drivers, Auxiliary Outputs and Flipper Outputs. A high voltage indicates that it is out of
reset and normal operation can take place.

Hope this helps

#3 9 years ago

I went there today and played around with it for 2 hours. Bridges checked out, 5v was dead on everywhere I test it, every board, everything. It resets like crazy though. I started disconnecting area to try and isolate it, and I finally did - the DMD controller board is causing the problem.

I disconnected the DMD completely, then on the DMD board (systematically to find out if there was a certain ribbon cable) each connection, and it turns out it is the 5v connector. I tested this under load, and while resetting, and it is bang on 5v, just as every other board, and I mean 5.01v. I re-seated the rom, but no help. It doesn’t seem to be dragging the 5v down per say, but it’s doing something.

As soon as I take this connector out, it plays fine. I had already re-pinned this connector and re-flowed the headers.

I hate this f**cking DE/sega/Stern DMD controller, as this stupid board is the only board I have never been able to repair, and this will be the third one.

Again, the DMD power connector was completely loose, and I wonder if something shorted to the 5v, surging the voltage to this board. I’m going to try and repair the DMD headers (tough, as you have to lift the plastic channel and solder from the wrong side of the board), and see if I can fix this board, but if not on either count, it’s going to run this guy like $400+ to replace the two, so any help is appreciated.

What’s funny is the of all the whitestar reset issues I have come across, as with Sega, they usually point to the DMD controller.

#4 9 years ago

If it resets when you hit the flipper buttons maybe it's the flipper coil diodes. Just a thought! I'm not too familiar with Whitestar boards but in the case of Williams pins you'd definitely want to check the related power supply capacitors. After 10 years they start to go bad.

1 year later
#5 7 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

the DMD controller board is causing the problem.

Any resolution to this? I'm experiencing the same thing. The game resets with the DMD board hooked up. It does this in two different machines. Voltages are low with the DMD board hooked up, they are fine with it unhooked. The 5V section of the IO board has basically been entirely rebuilt, so I really doubt it is a faulty component.

Here's the weird thing, put this IO board in:

Apollo 13 = resets unless DMD board is unplugged
XFiles = resets unless DMD board is unplugged
TSPP = plays fine, no issues. (DMD board is hooked up.)

The main difference between the TSPP DMD board and the other two is it is a newer version with SMT components. The XFiles and Apollo 13 DMD board are the older style with through hole components.

#6 7 years ago

It turned out to be br21 for me. It tested fine in circuit, but I read a few places they do this, and go bad quite a bit. I replaced it and everything was fine. I had the same issue with my TSPP at some point as well, again replaced br21.

It seems to be one of the common things to me with whitestar systems and something I'm considering adding to the immediate list of to-do's, along with dealing with the 5v connector on the DMD controller.

10 months later
#7 6 years ago

Just for archival sakes, I just had similar issues with a Stern Playboy.

During game play, the flippers and coils would die intermittently ... As if someone was opening and closing the coin door rapidly. At first, I replaced the door switch, but no difference. It had me scratching my head. 20v was fine, everything tested fine.

I found this thread and tried the game with the DMD board unplugged. Everything worked fine. So I gambled on replacing BR21 just in case the 5v was corrupted ... Even though it tested fine.

And whattya know ... Seems to be sweet now.

So it's good to follow up on this thread in case it helps someone else down the track.

rd.

2 years later
#8 3 years ago

....Two years later....AGAIN for archival sake, I just fixed my Space Jam. Had the same issue with the game shutting off and restarting when pressing flippers. My daughter got pissed off when she had the high score game in play and it shut off. The problem got progressively got worse over a 2 week period.

First I found an old 1999 tech bulletin no 112 to manage the watchdog. It said to clip pin 3 on each U210 and U218. This actually made the problem worse.

I found this tread, THANK YOU. My Bridge 21 tested fine too. I bought a replacement on eBay for $5 and just swapped it out and corrected the pin clipping as well. The game works perfectly out of the gate. I replaced it with part: KBPC3502 BRIDGE 200V 40A FULL WAVE. This looks identical to the original rectifier.

I joined inside just leave this response. Thanks. GWK

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