(Topic ID: 61428)

Help Request: upgrading the coin door (wiring issue)

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by mof
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 10 years ago

Just picked up a stainless steel coin door (from a fellow Pinsider) to replace the black one on my Sorcerer. Very excited.

Question: what's the best way to line up the pins on the wiring connector? They are not matched up equally...

Both doors have the same pin connector (thank god), but I need to make sure each pin is in the right spot.

a) what's the best way to ensure this?
b) what tool should I use to remove pins and move them to a new spot?

I think I have the same amount of pins, and the same connector, so I'm hoping it's doable.

thanks!
-mof

#2 10 years ago

Most any metal polish and a rag will make it look like new. Stainless cleans up easily. I use Blue Magic, which is available at most auto parts stores. Says on the label it leave a silicone coating on the metal after cleaning. Good stuff. Keep applying until you no longer see black (dirt) on the rag and you're done.

#3 10 years ago

What's the process if I want to get the scratches out? I'll take a few pics to show what I'm up against...

Front side is nice, with one dent, and many scratches, but overall good
Back side is crusty, dirty, old...

1) Front side: how can I get all the scratches out?

2) Back side: (some day) What's the best way to clean all those coin mech parts?

thanks!
-mof

door-front.jpgdoor-front.jpg door-inside.jpgdoor-inside.jpg

#4 10 years ago

Those scratches look too deep to be removed with polish. You'll need to re-grain, which I've never done. Lots of info posted on this over on RGP. Not sure on the back. That would be a labor of love (take a ton of work!). The coin return flap will likely clean up nicely in a tumbler.

Keep in mind that polishing without re-graining will make the door look odd. Many areas will shine up like new, but the scratches will be even more prominent. Do it all the way, or it will look odd.

#5 10 years ago

Use some high grit sandpaper (the kind you WON'T find at Home Depot or Lowes, but will find at auto supply stores). 800 grit or higher. I have 2000 grit in my stash. Once you get past 1200 grit you are in mirror polish territory, so start lower and work your way up.

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from tryppyr:

Use some high grit sandpaper (the kind you WON'T find at Home Depot or Lowes, but will find at auto supply stores). 800 grit or higher. I have 2000 grit in my stash. Once you get past 1200 grit you are in mirror polish territory, so start lower and work your way up.

That was my next question - where can I find 800 or higher? (you mention auto supply)
What's the best type of sander to use for this? (feel free to link me on lowes)
-mof

#7 10 years ago

I prefer hand sanding.

#8 10 years ago

Some incorrect info getting posted here... 800 or finer grit sandpaper is too fine for re-graining stainless steel. I use regular 220 grit sandpaper. And hand sanding is not a preference - it is mandatory. You have to sand in the same direction as the grain already on the stainless or you will end up with a mess. The tricky part is keeping your sanding strokes straight - if you curve at the end of the stroke, it won't come out nice.

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from RacerRik:

Some incorrect info getting posted here... 800 or finer grit sandpaper is too fine for re-graining stainless steel. I use regular 220 grit sandpaper. And hand sanding is not a preference - it is mandatory. You have to sand in the same direction as the grain already on the stainless or you will end up with a mess. The tricky part is keeping your sanding strokes straight - if you curve at the end of the stroke, it won't come out nice.

Stainless steel has grain? Or is that an effect from previous sanding/finish?
-mof

#10 10 years ago

It is a finish treatment - there is no visible grain of the metal itself.

#11 10 years ago

Here's how it came out after 2 hours. I had available to me:
80, 100, 120, 150, 320, 400.

I totally agree that the straight line stroke is the challenge. I thought I was doing this well, but the picture disagrees a little...

I'm wondering if the lack of a 220 is important or not. Also, I'd like to hop up to 800 and see how shiny it gets.

If I look over at my Space Shuttle or Black Knight -- they are both on the dull side. So I realize there is no requirement to get a mirror-like shine here. You see the "grain" in both of them.

thanks!
-mof

door-after-400.jpgdoor-after-400.jpg

#12 10 years ago

That looks 100% better!

#13 10 years ago

Looks way better now!
Time to use a cotton wheel and some paste to get it shinny!
My Medusa coin door.Inside and out!
Edit:Seems i didn t take some of the front,sorry,but you can see the result of buffing with cotton wheel and some GOOD paste!

Photo_199.jpgPhoto_199.jpg Photo_231.jpgPhoto_231.jpg

#14 10 years ago
Quoted from Andre:

Looks way better now!
Time to use a cotton wheel and some paste to get it shinny!
My Medusa coin door.Inside and out!
Edit:Seems i didn't take some of the front,sorry,but you can see the result of buffing with cotton wheel and some GOOD paste!

Hot damn! That's too sexy.
-mof

#15 10 years ago

To recap: I am upgrading the stock 1985 black door on the Sorcerer to a Stainless Steel "way more awesome looking" old school Williams coin door.

Question: what's the best way to line up the pins on the wiring connector?

Both doors have the same pin connector (thank god), but I need to make sure each pin is in the right spot.

a) what's the best way to ensure this?
b) what tool should I use to remove pins and move them to a new spot?

I think I have the same amount of pins, and the same connector, so I'm hoping it's doable.

thanks!
-mof

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