GPE has a category just for these Williams display connectors but what he has listed looks like the too short crimp and the one that looks like your old crimp is out of stock https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-03-0304

I wonder if these are the right ones but they are very expensive ebay.com link: MOLEX 08 03 0303 08 03 0304 loose pc 100pc strip 8 Line Edge Card Terminals

I have a whole bag of these molex 08-03-0304, which I believe are what you need

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Are these the correct or equivalent terminals?
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/bifurcated-edge-connector-split-pins-18-24-awg-100-pack-

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/pinball-kits-parts/pinball-parts/bifurcated-edge-connector-split-pins-18-24-awg-10-pack-me1004/

Have bought parts from them before - great to deal with.

They look similar but I already noticed that the Molex 4366 series (e.g. 08-03-0304) was quite different as you can see in the image below. The Molex 4366 (lower contact) has the following that the above contact does not have: Anti-fishhook (tab bend down at end to prevent it from 'fish hooking" when being pulled back out of connector. Wire stop to prevent wiring from being pushed in too far. Overstress tab - flat bend beneath contact to keep it from being pushed too far in.
Also note that the bend location is not in the right place.
Due to these - I ruled out that it was not the Molex 4366 contact.

But... they might work - you won't know until you try it.
Note to eyeamred2u -- value that bag of contacts! Finding the real thing at a reasonable price has become quite difficult!

The Arcade Parts and Repair contacts are knockoffs to the Molex 4366 contacts. On the down side, they are a softer base metal. On the plus side, they are actually "available" as opposed to the unobtainium Molex 4366 contacts. Having a softer contact is always better than having no contact at all for repairs.

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I bought some of the AMP style connectors & housings from Arcadeparts a while ago to replace the IDC connectors I have on my Firepower. I worked out this could be done with what they have available. The only housing that was not correct was the 15 pin housing, which the 16 pin can be used & a key inserted into the end (16th) pin - they fit fine (as per pics)

The 18 pin housing supplied were Genuine AMP housings, the other aftermarket housings was nearly identical to the AMP.

I had a look at these today & crimped one of the terminals with a wire. The terminal fitted both housings in the same way & appeared to made good contact with the edge connector. In any event I think this is a solution that should work.

I don't know if these particular terminals are genuine AMP or not? Ed will know, if not, I would guess the Genuine AMP terminals should work with the aftermarket housing - but that is something I don't know for sure.
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Real tough to figure out whose are whose in those images. This is one series of connector where AMP did not mark their name or logo on the connector.
AMP made these in both tan and white so cannot go by color.
The tan 18 pin plug appears to be genuine article. No voids at ends of either front or back.

The others could be genuine. Depending on pin count, there were voids in *backside* at ends - either none, one end (usually oriented to pin 1) or both ends. But none of my AMP plugs have a void on the front side as shown in 16 pin connector. However, I don't have any real 16 pin plugs to compare to so that doesn't mean much.

The contacts appear to be a strip version of 350011-1 which would be the proper contact for those connectors. They look right as far as the index hole spacing within strip. Genuine AMP contacts will have "AMP" marked in the crimp area on back side of contact (opposite side from all of those shown in photos).

Does this really mean anything? As long as the contacts fit within the connectors and the connectors fit onto the board - no.

I bought a bag of the NOS AMP pins from someone on Ebay many years ago. Were like $1 each at the time which was painful to pay. They might show up there again from time to time. I haven't used any of them yet due great luck in being able to tweak the contacts back into service. This will not work in all situations but worth a try.

With the power off, remove the connector from the board. Look at the contacts in the connector in question. If you see one that is "flat", use a tool with a hook on the end (I use a old dental pick) to bend back the peak in the contact surface. As you can see in the pictures above, they are supposed to have a peak that presses on the board contact. This can be bent out of a pin if mis-handled or gets bent out of shape. Alternatelay, you can remove the pin from the housing and use a small screw driver to bend the peak back in the contact.

DO NOT bend it out too far (you can break the metal) and DO NOT bend ALL the pins out "just because". You risk making things worse by tweaking pins that are in proper position.

Each time you bend the pin back into shape, you are weakening the metal and it will only work so many times, if at all.

Clean the contact pads on the circuit board side of the connection with a fiberglass sanding pen. amazon.com link »

These 2 steps have restored connection on all the Williams card-edge games I have repaired. Good Luck