(Topic ID: 179924)

Help question: SBM displays not working

By E_N_3

7 years ago


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  • 41 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by E_N_3
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#10 7 years ago

What happens when you power up the old MPU board, does the green LED flicker and flash (if yes how many times)?

Can you post a clear closeup picture of the chip at U8? It looks to be physically damaged in you picture.

The board appears to have the Silverball Mania program ROMs which is good, and not Dolly Partons (the picture is not clear enough to 100% confirm)
ROM chip at U1 should be marked "E-786-16 U1"
ROM chip at U2 should be marked "E-786-17 U2"
ROM chip at U6 should be marked "E-720-35 U6"

1 week later
#12 7 years ago

Hope you're feeling better
Pictures confirm your board has Silverball Mania ROMs and it is also jumpered correctly for them.

What happens when you power up this MPU board, does the green LED flicker and flash (if yes how many times)?

There's still some tracks with corrosion that need attention.

#14 7 years ago

Ok, so that LED flicker on power up is a good sign and means the board is beginning its power on self test, but failing at the first hurdle when it's testing the ROMs at U1, U2 and/or U6. It could be a connection issue with the sockets.

Remove each of these ROMs, take note of any corrosion/tarnishing in the sockets and ROM pins. Carefully plug the ROMs in and out a couple of times then finally make sure they're plugged in the correct way (not backwards) using your above pictures as reference.
Power up the board and let us know what happens.

#16 7 years ago
Quoted from E_N_3:

When I got to U6, I took the ROM out, and two ROM pins stayed in their holes (as they were broken off).

Ouch!
You should order replacement ROMs. I'm not in the US so hopefully someone else can chime in on the best place for you to get them locally. Note, you'll probably have to modify jumper links on the board for the replacement ROMs to work.

In this moment of desperation though, you could carefully scrape away some of the plastic around the broken pins on the U6 ROM to expose them a bit so the broken legs can be carefully soldered back on. Are you up for the challenge?

Quoted from E_N_3:

I put everything back, less two broken ROM pins from U6. Turned power on and got a solid green (no blink).

That's expected. With the U6 ROM not functioning, the green LED will stay on.

#24 7 years ago
Quoted from E_N_3:

I'm just nervous when it comes to anything relating, even remotely, to board work. I'm trying to get over this fear...lol. It looks like I WILL need to do jumpers

If it will help, I can probably post pictures of an unmodified board and a modified board with notes. I'll need to know if you're purchasing 2716 or 2732 ROM replacements.

#28 7 years ago

Both the ROM seller Cody mentioned and the ebay seller you mentioned are selling 2732 replacements, so I'll provide jumper pictures for that to make it simple.
Charging my camera batteries now so pics will come later.

#30 7 years ago

Before and after photos attached of the jumper changes: Click the images to zoom in.
First picture shows wire links (circled) that need to be cut/removed.
Second picture shows wire links you then add.

I marked the mods separately for U6 and U1/U2 combo with the aim that you could do U6 only for test. But just noticed that modifying U6 alone will upset the ability to leave your original 9316A U1/U2 combo without an extra mod.
So just do all the mods and replace your three old 9316A ROMs for both new 2732 EPROMs that arrive. Remember to install the 2732 EPROMs with the notch facing left (shown in the second picture).

At some point you'll probably need to replace the U2 and U6 sockets as vid1900 mentioned. However if your soldering skill are novice and you only have basic tools, it might be best if you send it out and get a pro to do it.

BY-35_Before.jpgBY-35_Before.jpg
BY-35_After.jpgBY-35_After.jpg

#32 7 years ago

You could re-purpose some of the wire links if you unsolder the one side of the link out of the hole it needs to be disconnected from, then bend the link so the loose end goes to the new destination hole; most of them will reach. Hope this makes sense.

Otherwise you can use normal small wire, you don't need to remove the coating. Just strip the ends to solder.
The wire links I've used are just excess leads I've cut from components (diodes, etc).

Staples probably won't take solder very well.

3 weeks later
#35 7 years ago
Quoted from E_N_3:

I get 1 blink and that's it

Is this just a really quick flicker?
Or a flicker then 1 flash?

#39 7 years ago
Quoted from E_N_3:

I feel it is longer than a fast flicker, so I think it's a flash.

The LED should quickly flicker the very moment you power the machine on then the LED should stay off for about half a second.
It should then flash on for half a second, then off longer for about 1 second, then on for half a second, off for half a second, etc.
The diagnostic flashes you count are the ones where the LED is on for about half a second (not the first flicker).

Feel free to post pictures of your mods in case we can see something amiss.

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