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(Topic ID: 267460)

HELP on Replacing last action hero CPU Board!


By Flip19

6 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by robotron911
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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8008E650-CC6A-4EE4-B9DE-0EE924DDC80E (resized).jpeg

#1 6 months ago

Hi pinball world.
My name is Kyle. I'm not a pro tech at this stuff, but have figured must out with help or videos.
I just got done restoring a gorgeous last action hero. Seems my oem board is FRIED in some common areas!
I’m just going to buy a brand new rotten dog CPU SAVE MY TIME !! Lol
The old is shot!
My question :
since I’m not a tech and I’m finding out people that are buying these new replacement boards are having clip problems for plugging in clips wires mismatched on board etc. etc.
Do I need to look for anything specific on these new replacements boards!
Also I run a nv ram chip and a new 1.13 version chip for game.
Question: Can I buy a new board with out any battery compartment in the upper left at all, Sense I have nv ram chip ?
Basely checking before I place an order if there’s anything that anybody ran into any problems with there new boards for this game. If so can they help me out if I’m going to miss out on something on this subject!
Thank you
Guys or girls !
8008E650-CC6A-4EE4-B9DE-0EE924DDC80E (resized).jpeg

#2 6 months ago

please stick with the original. what is wrong with your board and what fried? if you want an oem board i may have one that i could sell you. it did have battery damage but is fully cleaned up properly and sealed. you might be able to fix the problems with yours. if you don't have the skill set, it could be cheaper to send it to someone to fix than buy a board that may not work properly.

#3 6 months ago

BTW, your board looks pretty good and clean. I would just get that repaired. Stick with OEM as much as possible when it comes to boards.

#4 6 months ago

Cold SODER joints everywhere. They put a jumper on the light area and transistor are just toasted Ribbons are broken on board. Many many cooked areas that needs to much time and work for my skill set. I have a new rotten dog power supply, so makes sense to get a fully new board and sell the old. Per hr to fix the old board is not worth my time for somebody els.

#5 5 months ago

Honestly doesn’t sound like a bad fix. Try contacting chrishibler . He is a well known board repair guy. I bet it would be half the cost of the new one and will be the proper board going back in. The cold solder joints is an easy fix. The cooked areas is normal and not bad at all on your board. The jumper may be an easy fix depending if the traces are damaged.

#6 5 months ago
Quoted from Flip19:

Hi pinball world.
My name is Kyle. I'm not a pro tech at this stuff, but have figured must out with help or videos.
I just got done restoring a gorgeous last action hero. Seems my oem board is FRIED in some common areas!
I’m just going to buy a brand new rotten dog CPU SAVE MY TIME !! Lol
The old is shot!
My question :
since I’m not a tech and I’m finding out people that are buying these new replacement boards are having clip problems for plugging in clips wires mismatched on board etc. etc.
Do I need to look for anything specific on these new replacements boards!
Also I run a nv ram chip and a new 1.13 version chip for game.
Question: Can I buy a new board with out any battery compartment in the upper left at all, Sense I have nv ram chip ?
Basely checking before I place an order if there’s anything that anybody ran into any problems with there new boards for this game. If so can they help me out if I’m going to miss out on something on this subject!
Thank you
Guys or girls !
[quoted image]

Do you have any pics of your old pcb mpu or is that yours in the post above?

#7 5 months ago
Quoted from Bax1:

Honestly doesn’t sound like a bad fix. Try contacting chrishibler . He is a well known board repair guy. I bet it would be half the cost of the new one and will be the proper board going back in. The cold solder joints is an easy fix. The cooked areas is normal and not bad at all on your board. The jumper may be an easy fix depending if the traces are damaged.

I second the recommendation for Chris. LAH was my first pin and it turned out to have significant battery damage that hadn't been repaired right, so it failed on me within 3 months. Chris did his magic and I never looked back. OEM board is still running awesome years later thanks to Chris.

#8 5 months ago
Quoted from Brtlkat:

Do you have any pics of your old pcb mpu or is that yours in the post above?

I believe that is his above, which to me looks good and is worth fixing.

#9 5 months ago

That’s a pretty nice looking board as others have said. Removing the battery holder from the board is almost trivial. I can see that somebody has done some work in the special solenoids section and somebody has replaced a resistor in the lamp matrix. Pretty normal for a Data East MPU.

I’m happy to help.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

#10 5 months ago

i would get rid of the rottendog power supply as well. When they fail they will kill every board in the game. Ask me how i know.

1 week later
#11 5 months ago

I would dump the Rottendog stuff as well. Let's put it this way, when Chris Hutchins says Rottendog stuff is crap, it's crap.

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