I started to experience the 5v reset issue.
I shotgun replaced all the BR and caps recommended in Clay's guide, as well as added all of the jumpers just to be safe while I was in there. I also replaced the voltage regulator at Q2.
I now have good voltage on the 5v, the 18v but 12v is messed up.

TP1 has a reading of 16.9 vdc. TP3 has a reading of 1vdc. There is no +12v led lit.

So the game boots and gives the classic check fuse F114/115.

Can someone tell me where I should be looking??

I reseated all connectors including the ones on the transformer. I check diodes D1/D2 and they are ok.

The only thing I can think of is the Q2 voltage regulator is faulty or somehow U20 on the CPU is bad. But that doesn't seem likely because the 12v was fine before I started working on the power driver board. Now I'm second guessing every part and solder joint.

Thanks for any input!

I take it that the jumpers wouldn't have solved this issue?
I also am now suspect of cap C2 next to the regulator. It is a 100 mfd 25 volt cap and apparently it fails a lot. Leaks and breaks the trace under it.
I only have a 50v 47 uF cap on hand to try. I'm not smart enough to know if that will work in place. I better order some.
I found my old pinball ninja password and I see this was the case for a Black Rose.

Well I removed that little c2 cap and low and behold it was leaking bad. It also corroded the trace. So I cleaned the area replaced the cap and ran the leads over to the voltage regulator with some insulation as per clays black rose repair to bridge the broken trace.
Well I attached the lead to the wrong leg of the regulator and f114 a 8a fast blow glowed red, didn't blow and some black smoke proofed out from behind the board. I fixed my error, replaced the fuse and tested br3 to see if that is where the smoke came from but it tested fine. Unsure of the source.
Basically I found the issue made it much worse by working late at night and now I got no 50 12 or 20 volts... What a newbie move .
Guess I'll be buying a rottendog.