Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993I did a very through shop out on my Date East JP, played several games 60/70. Have turned the machine on and off about a dozen times. Yesterday I turned on the machine, the machine didn't boot up, I only have back box and play field lights. Can you guys please point me in the right direction-I don't know where to start.
Data East didn't put the flux-capacitor on the Jurassic Park, only on Back to the Future.
Also, there are a lot of threads about the problematic power supply board, make sure that your Roms are getting juice.
After verifying all of the EPROMS were properly seated I checked all connectors and fuses. I am embarrassed to say the problem was a bad fuse on the power supply board.
I must admit I just didn't expect the problem to be a bad fuse as the last time I played the machine it worked properly and when I was done playing I shut it down without any issues. Turned it back on a day or two later and it wouldn't boot. I guess I suspected something much worse.
Lesson learned-check all the basics....
I am a little confused about fuse values, for instance on the power supply board F1 & F2 call for a 7A Slo-Blo fuse. Is this a 250 volt fuse? Does the voltage rating on the fuse make a difference.
Currently the fuse in F2 is a MDL7 32volt and the F1 is a Slo-Blo 7A but 250 volt.
I drove to 5 different locations to find a MDL7 in 32 volt - didn't locate one. All that being said I am not clear on the voltage ratings on these fuses and am concerned that someone has replaced fuses on this machine and did not replace them with the correct fuses.
Just kidding about the flux-capacitor donjagra...
Thanks for your help guys, working in the back box takes me out of my comfort zone.
My understanding is you can go higher on the voltage value of a fuse but not lower. Just don't go higher on the Amperage rating. Most places today only sell the 250v. You can also go faster on the Blo rating with the only negative consequence being you will blow more fuses, possibly even immediately.
that happens to all of us Bill2626
and worse some fusses look perfectly good that are blown.
the fuse did it's job now you will have to find out what is causing it -if it keeps blowing
Just be glad that you found it and didn't have to pay the tech to come out to the house to tell you it was a fuse. I had that happen on a bad flipper. 
Perfect example of a fuse that looked fine, but wasn't.
Understand and agree on the importance of the amperage SealClubber. I replaced the 7 amp 32V with a 7 amp 250V and all is well. I played several games and everything seems to be working, and holding!
I am very please that I was able to get it up and running with out bringing a tech in, I will post some pics soon - I added some nice mods!
Thanks for all your help guys!
I think that how everyone starts out in the hobby- DIY,
in a year or two you will be doing your own board work 
I hope things continue to go well for you, but in my experiences fuses always blow for a reason. I would certainly hope for the best, but also expect the worst, at least for the next 150 games or so.
Thanks jalpert - the back box portion of the machine is my weakest skill...
I did the same donjara, I added 3 of the Papo dinos to the play field. I agree the machine looks pretty bare especially in the right rear of the machine. I put a 8" T-rex in this spot and it looks great.
To begin with of course I striped the play field, polished it with the Treasure Cove kit. Re-grained all of the stainless, installed a new plastics set, replaced every screw with polished stainless steel screws, replaced all of the aircraft type nuts with polished stainless acorn nuts. Flame polished a new main ramp, and all other clear protective parts.
I am in the process (waiting for the light strip) of back lighting the the banner in the very back of the machine the "When Dinosaurs ruled the Earth" plastic - this should have been lit from the factory. Try holding a flashlight behind this plastic on your machine and you will see the potential. I will build a back box to contain the LED light strip.
I used a product called "bare metal foil" it is used for detailing of plastic model kits. I put this chrome foil over the raptors on the 3 pop bumper caps. You can hardly notice these little guys on the stock pop bumpers. With the pop bumpers lit the raptors come to life - you can see them!
I have a few other ideas I am working out, will share once I figure them out. I will try to get some pics on the this week.
Please share any ideas you may have and if you find a set of plastic protectors for this machine please let me know, I have not see a set available.
Wow, that is a lot of upgrades. I want to see pics when you get them done. Is your JP missing a GI light right where the ball launches into the pop bumpers? Mine is, I suspect it was not added in production, but I am thinking of putting it in.
A similar light was missing on my IJ near the indy lanes, I put it in and it looks great. I suspect this one on the JP would really help with the dark area in the middle of the playfield.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-needed-with-jurassic-park and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Santa Ana, CA
hmmm......what else?
London, ON