Howdy,

This is my very first solid state Gottlieb and I am super excited to get it up and running. I bought it knowing full well there were several issues with it, but all of them seem minor in the big scheme of things. I am hoping this community can help me determine root cause and I will document fixes in the hopes this helps the next System 3 n00b (I have already search via this site and google for answers and have not found anything that has helped).

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<SOLVED> Issue #1: Ball Release not Firing

This ball release coil never fires. Initial visual inspection of coil and wiring looks good. Initial visual inspection of fuses look good. I am still waiting on manual, so not sure where to start looking in detail. I shorted transistor Q28 (used aligator clips and attached one end to ground and other end to metal tab on transistor). This fires the coil, so no issue with the mech itself.

<SOLUTION> The switch in the shooter lane was adjusted badly, was always closed. I believe the game is designed to not kick a ball out into the shooter lane if it detects a ball is already there. Since the switch was always closed, it always thought a ball was in the lane and didnt kick out. This is why it worked during test mode and if I grounded the mosfet on the driver board.

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<SOLVED> Issue #2: Right Flipper Chatter

Like I mentioned earlier, this is my first Gottlieb, I cut my teeth on Williams System 9 & 11. So I can see right away the mechs and the principal appear different. What causes this? The wiring looks good and the three lugs on the coil look good. I used a small file and freshend up the switch contact points.

<SOLUTION> As Clay mentions below, the coil simply needed to be replaced. See photo for bad coil.

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<SOLVED> Issue #3: GI Out

All of my GI under my playfield is out. I took out F9 and checked it on my DMM and it checked out fine. Where do I look next? I have read that I may have to go socket by socket to find the source of the issue, is that my next move?

<SOLUTION> This ended up being an easy one. Believe or not, all the bulbs were out. I had the same issue in the backbox and that made me attempt at the playfield. Sure enough first bulb I replaced came right on.

<SOLVED> Issue #4: Flipper Button Fit Issue

I was missing a flipper button when I got the pin, no big deal. I called up PBR and ordered a new set of clear ones using the part number right off the website for a Stargate flipper button. When I try to install it, it won't fit. The button is too big! I have never even thought there were different button sizes, what am I missing?

Fix: Like Clay said, just need to hammer that button in there. There were little nibs that make it a very tight fit and it just needs a little encouragement.

<SOLVED> Issue #5: Flippers

So while all three flippers appear responsive to me , they do not appear to interact with the DMD at all. If I try to access the test menu, I can't get past initial screen that is requesting that I use the left/right flippers to make suggestions. If I disconnect the flipper board under the playfield, then I can get right past this and into the test diagnostics. Also, if I play a game (working around all the other issues listed above), if I get to a mode that is asking for feedback (left or right flipper), it does register my response. This is strictly an issue with the Test mode and impacts my ability to diagnose switches, coils, etc.

<SOLUTION> Replaced driver board. I am sure there is a less nuclear option but I am not knowledgeable on System 3's to know how to troubleshoot the board. I did the basic testing on the mosfet transistors and saw nothing wrong.

Ok, good advice. I will investigate tonight. I need to figure out which fuse drives the ball kicker.

Edit: Received manual today and was able to verify F34 is the fuse for the ball kicker. But then I discovered that my DMM needs a battery and I have no more 1/2A SB fuses, so I will need to run down to store tomorrow before I can validate anything.

So I checked the existing fuse with my DMM and it looks fine but I replaced it just in case with a brand new fuse. Still no dice. With the game powered on, I then checked both lugs on the coil and both read the same, ~64 DCV. Not sure what next step is...

I can't get into the diagnostics because of one of the above mentioned issues with the flippers. While they appear to relatively work (one chatters), they provide no input to any menu options on the DMD (rather it be in game or in the service menus). All I can do is tap on the Test service button and get it into self test mode, but the solenoid test starts with the lower pop bumper and I cant advance it to other coils.

Ok, I am ordering a new sensor board (A15 MA1334) and a new flipper coil (25959) tomorrow from PBR. Hopefully that gives me control of my menus and fixes the chattering on my flipper. Then I can diagnose the issue with the ball release coil not firing.

Why do I feel I have more PBR orders in my future, lol.

Replaced the board tonight, still no dice. Still can't interact with test menu unless I unplug the wiring harness from the flipper sensor board (MA1334).

I am searching and searching and I don't see anyone else with a problem remotely like this, unable to interact with the DMD at all with flippers. The flippers work during game at this point, just cant get past the first screen of the Test menu.

As a follow up, I was reading through the schematics and verified that the ball release (sol. 27) was connected to transistor Q28. When I ground the tab on that transistor with the game in attract mode, the ball release does indeed fire. So the problem does not appear to be the coil or be between the coil and the driver board.

Tuesday bump!

Cheddar came over today and helped me a bit. He also has no background in System 3s but is an excellent troubleshooter. We learned a couple of things today that may shed more light.

One, we had a broken capacitor on the left flipper. The local radio shack only had 50V replacements so we wired to in serial to make it to the minimum 100V we read was needed. Didn't fix anything, but it was one potential problem eliminated.

Two, after watching some Clay videos we learned the exact nature of the two switches at the front coin door. The top white one protects the memory, so me testing or trying to adjust things with the door closed and the playfield up is invalid. The switch ensures the coin door is open before anything can be written to memory. We also learned that the power kill switch (bottom white switch) can be pulled out to cause it to stay locked open, so we no longer have to manually hold it closed when the door is open. This is awesome!

Three, when the door is open and the tournament mode switch is set to On, we get to a menu that has several options (Free Play, Game Features, Special/Replay, and Extra Ball). Right now the options are continuously cycled through. So the 1st option is highlighted for a second, then the 2nd option is highlighted, then the 3rd, etc etc. While its highlights, the right button does allow for changes if we are quick enough. But the left button has no impact on menu selection (stopping or changing the cycle). I assume this indicates something significant as videos I have seen of this menu show no cycling.

Fourth, we actually swapped flipper switches and moved the right flipper to the left flipper just to rule out something with the switch itself. This made no difference, same behavior was seen.

So at the end of the day we are left with a quick setting menu that pops up automatically when door is open during tournament mode and is cycled through indefinitely. If you tap test button, the prompt appears "L flipper to step R flipper to select". This prompt stays up and nothing gets you past this. No pressing or holding of the test button or either flipper button in any combination. If I disconnect the flipper's sensor board, the test button will go straight into self test but I am unable to (obviously) use flipper buttons to make any changes. All three flippers continue to work in game with no issues and both flipper buttons interact with the in-game, on-screen menus with no issues.

Not sure what next steps are. I suspect something with the left flipper and/or the board (although its a brand new board).

Thoughts? Next step? Is System 3 troubleshooting pretty hard?

Well time for an update as I have had some small wins.

I pulled the driver board and tested all the solenoid mosfets and all tested fine. I did find a broken lug on my left slingshot and then I later found a broken wire on my right slingshot. I borrowed a Rottendog driver board from jabbles and replaced the left coil and fixed the right one. The game is now basically playing well. I tried putting my old driver board back in and the flipper issue occured again. I suspect a chip issue but don't know enough.

So I will be buying a new driver board just to put things to bed.

Issue #6: Flashers don't appear to be working. After all my bad bulb issues with the GI I decided to replace some of them. Sure enough they lit up. But after a few minutes in attract mode I noticed a burnt smell and turned off the machine. I felt around for hot chips, burned boards, etc and didn't see anything. I turned the machine back on to troubleshoot the smell and it was at this point that I noticed the flashers no longer worked. The bad smell went away at that point too. Smell and flashers no longer working, are they related, I am guessing so? I only had two bulbs to try with so until I order more I cant tell if my bulbs simply fried or if something else did.

I tried testing the controlled lighting transistors on the driver boards (I assume these also run the flashers), but I am not clear on how to test them. I tried following the example on pinrepair.com (http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/#lamp) but I get different readings then I expect.