check the bulb socket and wires to it, with targets make sure the switch's are making contact

I know nothing about Gameplan but it sounds like you need to adjust some switches.

Adjust (bend slightly) the prong in the middle of the switch between the leafs, the stabilizer / guide prong. It is the most rigid prong. You may also have to adjust each leaf individually. Also check to make sure the contacts are good on each leaf...sometimes they wear down, get chipped or burnt, and don't make good contact. If they are too close, they can get constant contact or arch. Adjust each switch, and then test it out by engaging the mech and checking the spacing / contact. For slings or other stand alone switches, adjust and then put the rubber back, then visually check to make sure the contact is good when engaged. For roll overs near the trough (outlanes, return lanes, ball trough), look under the PF to make sure good contact is being made (with a ball, not your finger due to weight / pressure parameters), and that the switch is releasing once the switch has been depressed. Sometimes switches get sticky over time.

You should check all the switches in the game while you're at it. If a switch gets constant contact, the mech for whatever the switch controls (drop target, slingshot, etc.) can actually burn out the transistor (tip) on the driver board from constant overload. It will usually blow a fuse first, but it can also burn out the transistor.

If you don't have the correct tool, get one of these:

switch adj (resized).jpg

Check the MPU and driver boards for damage also. Sometimes damaged traces or diodes can make a game quirky, with regard to certain scoring features.

Do you have the manual for the game? I can get the schematics from ipdb.org, but there's some info in the manual that might help us figure this out.

First off: Did these problems only begin after you fixed the drop targets? Do you have a DMM and soldering iron and know how to use them? (There's tons of help here if not)

I'm thinking that switch that came up in diagnostics might be stuck closed (aka making contact) and could possibly be the root of some of the other switch problems you mentioned. Does the manual tell you which switch the diagnostics were indicating? You said "Horseshoe" so I'm guessing it could be one of the 5 star-rollover switches that line the horseshoe loop. With the game off, I'd open the game up and get a close look at those switches--or whichever switch "090" is.

Make sure the wiring is properly secured to the switch terminals as well as the diodes. Wiggle the legs on the diode gently to ensure that it's firmly attached as well.

If you need to clean any of the switches, a business card or folded up piece of paper can be slid between the little contacts (the little round things at the ends of the switches that make contact with each other, carrying the electricity from one switch leaf to the other).

If a switch needs to be adjusted, the tool Colson posted is ideal. Definitely get one when you place an order for parts (I keep 2 because I constantly misplace them). In the meantime, you can use needle-nose pliers or a flat head screwdriver to 'pry' the leaves away from each other--but whatever you use to make adjustments to the switches--you want to bend the switch leaf at their *base*...the part of the switch leaf nearest the stack of brown spacers that the screws go through. Don't bend them at the end where the contact is!

Sounds like there's numerous issues, but I find it best to select one problem and work through it. Then see where you stand and proceed to the next problem. The 6 flashes on the MPU is a good sign, it tells us the game is booting properly.

If you need pics or further clarification for anything I've said, let me know. I remember when I first got started and didn't know squat about these games, so I will try my best to keep my explanations as simple as possible. I'm also jealous, btw...I've wanted a Sharpshooter for years... I will enjoy it vicariously once it's all fixed up! Good luck!

I've attached a diagram and added my laughably questionable ms paint skills to point out some of the jargon I used regarding switches.

vzv (resized).JPG

EDIT: I read your other thread about an issue with the start button and you said there was a connector that once wiggled got the game working. I'm betting you're gonna need to re-flow the solder to the header pins on the board that connector attaches to. Do you have any experience with circuit board soldering?

Awesome! Good catch! It seems possible that the switch got bent when you reinstalled the drop target banks. If you need any further assistance, hit me up or post to this thread and I'll see what i can do (I'm sure others will too, this community is great). Enjoy your game, man! If i find myself heading up in your direction, I'll let you know. I'd love to get some games in!

That's what I figured. Glad that you got it working...and at least a few issues resolved. As Frunch offered, let us know if you need any more help, or feel free to shoot me a PM.

OP, if you have not stumbled across this site yet, I highly recommend it. It helped me immensely on a GP Cocktail pin I had a while back, Vegas.

http://www.pinrepair.com/gp/index.htm

Definitely take a close look at the outhole switch, make sure it's making contact when the ball is resting on the switch. Also, have you cleaned the switch? If everything looks good at the outhole switch, it's probably not a bad idea to re-flow the solder to the male connectors on the mpu board. Not sure if you have any experience with that type of soldering, though.

Do you have a multimeter?

If you need to clean any of the switches, a business card or folded up piece of paper can be slid between the little contacts. Gently squeeze the switch and drag the paper between the contacts once or twice.

I'd see if taking the apron off gives better access to the switch, that may allow you to test the switch with the ball. I say to test it with the ball because pushing the switch by hand might work, but it may still be gapped too wide for the ball to activate it.

Never use solvent on the switches. If you are doing a total restoration, certain agents can be used once the switches are removed from the circuit. I wouldn't do that while they are wired up or the game is powered up. As frunch said, business card or triple folded paper usually does the trick. Check the contacts as you're doing this to make sure they are good. I would take the apron off, lift the PF, and just manually place the ball in the drain and visualize the switch. Sometimes a slight adjustment is just needed.

If you have the manual or trace the wire, in some games there is a harness with a connector down in the cabinet, and the other end is up in the backbox and they meet right around the pedestal (or slightly under). That connector and the pins can become worn and cause several issues with the ball eject, drain and kickout holes. That was an issue in my Gorgar before. Might not be getting contact, but I'm not sure if Gameplan games have such a connector there. The connector end from the backbox usually runs to the CPU or driver board.

Nice!! Always start with the easy stuff, and post here anything you need help, for sure. Glad you got it back in action!

...and you may feel like a dope, but you learned something. Understanding how switches work is key with pinball machines. Just be glad it was an easy fix!