Help me look as dumb as I feel. KOS

I picked up this Bally Kings of steel two weeks ago and have sorted out all the problems but one...... The right flipper is not working correctly. I have a new eos switch, new cab switch, alltek SDB, also a new coil installed but I'm almost positive I have it wired incorrectly. I changed out a bunch of caps on the sound board and brought it back from the dead no problem.....so why is it I can never solve the easy stuff? Help me look as dumb as I feel and tell me how I wired this wrong?

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#2 5 years ago

ROB

RCA1

Pinside+ Addict

St Joseph, MI

11y 128K 8,676 28 11

Is the spliced wire (white/brown to red and back) shorting to the coil stop?
Looks like the splice joint is bare wire.

#3 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

It is bare wire and I have yet to fix that but that is not grounding.

#4 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

Ohms on left coil 3.2 (working double flipper) ohms on right coil 295 (single coil) lol.

#5 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from V_piscopo:
The right flipper is not working correctly.

What exactly is the problem?

#6 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

The flipper is not working. I know I have hold power as I can hear the coil energise and while holding the flipper button and manually plunging the the plunger it will hold on it's own when it hits the coil stop. The plunger releases when I depress the flipper button.

#7 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

Can you post another picture from the other side of the coil showing the diodes? If I'm not mistaken, you've wired the EOS switch across the thrust winding of the coil instead of the hold winding.

#8 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

IMG_20181111_224850 (resized).jpg

#9 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

The brown wire soldered to the orangle wire on the coil lug should be moved to the lug on the other end where the double brown wires are.

#10 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

That imeaditaly blows a fuse when the flipper button is pressed.

#11 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

Show us some more pictures of how you've now wired the coil including the EOS switch.

#12 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

I did nothing to the eos switch. Mearly change the brown wire on coil lugs.

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#13 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

You sure that brown wire you resoldered isn't touching the middle lug - can't tell from your picture.
Is there any wires touching the flipper mech metal frame? This could cause a short to the EOS switch when the crank touches it.
The diode on the flipper coil between the orange wire and the centre lug could be shorted.

Did the fuse blow immediately when you pressed the flipper button, or did it blow some seconds after holding the button with the flipper in the up position?

#14 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

Yes I am positive that the wire I re soldered is not touching the middle lug (double checked) I am positive there are no bare wires touching the flipper frame or any part of the mech. This is a brand new coil and I doubt there is a diode issue although I am more than happy to stop and check although the last coil showed the previous symptoms. Lastly the fuse blew imeaditaly when I pressed the flipper button. That's all for now. I have the day off tomorrow and am open to all suggestions but tonight it's off to bed.

#15 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

For the F4 fuse on the rectifier board to blow immediately when you pressed the button means you have a short across the thrust winding of the coil. The thrust (primary) winding is the thicker wire winding. The hold (secondary) winding is the thin wire winding.

With the machine off, put a card between the EOS switch to open it. Measure the resistances across the coil and compare results to those printed on your coils pincoil label.

#16 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

When the eos is closed it reads around 114 ohms when the eos is held open it reads 295.5ish ohms. How sure are you that the wire configuration is correct? The reason I ask is....I went back through to tripple check nothing was shorting and resoldered the 3 brown wires to the far right lug put in a new fuse and started her up, pressed the flipper button and a spark came from that lug completely blowing off all 3 brown wires. The fuse was not blown and the game was still on so I pressed the flipper button with that lug completely disconnected and the flipper worked. Lol.

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#17 5 years ago

DNO

Pinside member

Highlands Ranch, CO

11y 73,800 1,974 45

After all this fiddling, I would determine if the diodes are still any good.
At this point you might wire it correctly, and blow the fuse w a bad diode.

#18 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member

OP
Quoted from V_piscopo:
How sure are you that the wire configuration is correct?

I'm 150% sure. The wiring is even printed on the coil label:

FlipperCoil.jpg

Lug 1 where +43V goes are the double brown wires you have. The EOS switch is connected across lugs 1 and 2. Lug 3 where your orange wire is ultimately goes back to the flipper button via the solenoid driver board.

With the EOS switch open you should measure 322 ohms resistance across lugs 1 and 2. And you should measure 3.1 ohms across lugs 2 and 3.

FlipperWiring (resized).jpg

#19 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

One or both of the diodes on that coil must have been fried. I pulled the coil, put on new diodes, resoldered lugs, and checked resistance. Everything checked out so I fired her up.......and boom goes the dynamite, working like a champ. Thank you for the help and making me look as dumb as I felt when I could not figure it out!

#20 5 years ago

???

dmgm3

Inactive member

Louisville, KY

5y 16,400 12 3

Quoted from Quench:
I'm 150% sure. The wiring is even printed on the coil label:
[quoted image]
Lug 1 where +43V goes are the double brown wires you have. The EOS switch is connected across lugs 1 and 2. Lug 3 where your orange wire is ultimately goes back to the flipper button via the solenoid driver board.
With the EOS switch open you should measure 322 ohms resistance across lugs 1 and 2. And you should measure 3.1 ohms across lugs 2 and 3.
[quoted image]

I have a similar problem, I have a Bally Black Pyramid with a dead right flipper. I picked it up on Saturday so not a lot of time to go through the manual. Based on the drawing I have +43v on Lug 1. It has 322 ohms between lugs 1 and 2 with the EOS open but it is open on lugs 2 and 3. Does that mean I have a bad coil or could it be something on the MPU? thanks in advance!

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#21 5 years ago

VMP

V_piscopo

Pinside member

May want to start your own thread. Does the coil fire when you ground the far right tab?

#22 5 years ago

PIP

Quench

Pinside member