(Topic ID: 263101)

Help me fix my Space Shuttle - Please

By dr_spidey

4 years ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by frunch
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

So here's where I'm at. My left Pop Bumper switch got stuck and was energized on for who knows how long.

At first i thought it was just a melted coil. I replaced that. I accidently wired it backwards at first since the diode was reversed one the new one I got.

When it didn't fix the issue I realized that I also fried Q78, Q79 & R23
So I replaced those as well

Still not working and I now have more problems
lamp column 4 & 6 are now out
switches not working: 25, 26, 36, 40

Any thoughts where to look next

Thanks

#2 4 years ago

Update:

I re-seated IJ6 & IJ7 - column lights all working again

Still with the left pop not working and the switches (25, 26, 36, 40)

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from dr_spidey:

Update:
I re-seated IJ6 & IJ7 - column lights all working again
Still with the left pop not working and the switches (25, 26, 36, 40)

Go into switch test and manually trip each switch. They might be dirty and use a piece strip of paper to clean contacts with.

#4 4 years ago

Thanks

So 36 was just dirty. That switch is working

The two kicker switches (39 & 40) don't register in test mode, but they work fine

The Jets (bumpers) are the issue
Lower: switch test registers and works
left: switch test doesn't register, doesn't work
right: switch test doesn't register, works

#5 4 years ago
Quoted from dr_spidey:

Thanks
So 36 was just dirty. That switch is working
The two kicker switches (39 & 40) don't register in test mode, but they work fine
The Jets (bumpers) are the issue
Lower: switch test registers and works
left: switch test doesn't register, doesn't work
right: switch test doesn't register, works

Maybe check your connections at 3 j4 on the power supply board.(12 pin connector ) I had a similar issue with mine and that seemed to be the Magic Bullet for me

#6 4 years ago

I reseated that connection and now it won’t start.

I’m done for tonight. Going backwards on this thing.

1 month later
#7 4 years ago

OK, I'm back at trying to get this fixed

Here's where I'm at:
The left pop is still not working. I replaced Q78, Q79 & R23. In the switch test, the switch (25) will not register. Even if I manually trip it.
The right pop works. But in the switch test, the switch (26) will only register occasionally.
the lower pop works fine, and tests fine

All the other lights and switches are working fine now

#8 4 years ago

Switch 25 and the other pop bumper switches are on the same column, in this case it's column 4. I would check that the green-yellow wire to every switch in that column is firmly attached, and that the diode is also correctly oriented and firmly attached on each of those switches as well. I usually give a light tug on each wire and diode to make sure they aren't just hanging on by a thread. If the daisy-chain of green-yellow wire is broken anywhere in that column, it can sometimes cause issues like this. Good luck!

Screenshot_20200404_165058_com.google.android.apps.docs.jpgScreenshot_20200404_165058_com.google.android.apps.docs.jpg
4 weeks later
#9 3 years ago

I checked all the switches in the column. They seem to be fine

If I simulate the solenoid firing, I engage the other switch on the pop. That seems to register in switch test. For all three pops.

Any idea why?

If the switch was stuck on what else would get fried? I already swapped out the 2 transistors (Q78&79) and the resistors (R22&R23) I also swapped out the diode D1

#10 3 years ago

So at this point which pop bumpers are working?

Are you saying all three pop bumper switches are being detected when you push the switch for any of the pops?

#11 3 years ago

So this machine was working fine. when I moved it, this problem started

Lower: switch test registers and works
left: switch test doesn't register, doesn't work
right: switch test occasionally registers, works

When i manually move the plunger and trip the other switch, all the switch tests will register. Does that make sense?

#12 3 years ago

Did you unplug any connectors when you moved the game? What happens if you push the U, S, or A targets? Do they register properly? Do all the pop bumper coils fire in coil test?

#13 3 years ago

since the issue started, i've taken the board off to do repairs. So all the connectors were unplugged and plugged back in. just did that again today

USA Targets? you mean the USA lights? those switches are fine. they register fine in test and game play

the pop bumpers don't fire in coil test i don't think the special solenoids are supposed to fire in test mode.

#14 3 years ago

Cool, just wanted to be sure the rest of the switches on that column are registering properly. I also double checked and you're right, the coils will only fire by activating their switches. I would confirm the column wire has continuity between all three pop bumpers and the pin it goes to up at the driver board (1J8, pin 4) next.

#15 3 years ago

Thanks for helping. This has been bugging me.

I have continuity all the way. I checked all three pops. Left out lane. USA switches. Ramp upper switch. All the way to the connector

#16 3 years ago

Could you post a couple pics of each of the non working pop bumper switches? Maybe an extra pair of eyes will see something you might be missing.

Are you saying when you push the scoring switch (*not* the skirt switch that fires the bumper) for one of the bumpers, the other switches begin working?

#17 3 years ago

Ahh, ok so I was a little mixed up about the switch matrix having anything to do with this issue. What you verified is that the *scoring* switches (which are on the switch matrix) all have good continuity up to the driver board.

The skirt switches that activate the pops go to a different connector though, and hopefully that's where the problem might be. Looking at the schematic, it's connector 1J18 that each pop bumper skirt switch goes to. Also take a close look at the capacitor and resistor on each pop bumper activation switch stack, it's possible they got mangled or could be shorting somewhere. They may have been cut off at some point if they aren't there.

Inkedspace shuttle pop bumper switches_LI (resized).jpgInkedspace shuttle pop bumper switches_LI (resized).jpg

Another thing I noticed looking at the schematic (page 17), there's actually 2 connectors that the wiring for those switches are going through: they end at 1J18, but before they get there, they go through what appears to be a 36-pin connector called 8J3 and 8P3...the right blue arrow is pointing to that connector...it's likely one of the connector blocks between the cabinet and backbox. Did you remove the head when you moved the game? If so, it's possible there's a loose or broken connection(s) at the block those wires go through. I know those block-style connectors can be difficult to separate for removing the head, and it wouldn't surprise me if the wires sometimes get pulled on (weakening or breaking the connection) in attempt to unplug the connector. All 6 special solenoid switches have an orange wire with a colored stripe, so it may not be too hard to track down which block contains them.

Test continuity for the orange wire coming from each non-working pop bumper's activation switch up to 1J18 at the driver board. The Orange/Black wire from the left pop bumper activation switch up to 1J18, pin 2 and the Orange/Green from the right pop bumper activation switch up to 1J18, pin 8. If either is open, I'd start getting a closer look at the connector block 8J3 (though it's probably not labeled anywhere in the game, so follow the orange wires) and the connector at 1J18, male and female sides.

#18 3 years ago

I didn’t remove the head. Just folded it down. So I never messed with that connector. But let me check for continuity

And just to clarify

The scoring switch seems to register during the switch test. But the skirt switch does not for the left pop.

#19 3 years ago

Continuity checks done for orange/black and orange/green

Here’s some pics

5CFD9F07-66DC-4FE9-9C8C-09E31F18D562 (resized).jpeg5CFD9F07-66DC-4FE9-9C8C-09E31F18D562 (resized).jpegA0E70B8E-5F64-47D1-AB4B-48AB9F168802 (resized).jpegA0E70B8E-5F64-47D1-AB4B-48AB9F168802 (resized).jpeg
#20 3 years ago

Do you get continuity between the switch leaves for the skirt switch (the one next to the spoon/actuator) when you push them together?

#21 3 years ago

Yes. Continuity not an issue

So I talked to my local board guy here. He’s convinced the issue is on the board. Either the IC or the PIA
I don’t have the equipment to test that but that’s my next step

#22 3 years ago

Yeah, it's definitely starting to sound that way. Strange it happened after the move, but it is what it is. Def let us know what you find...

2 weeks later
#23 3 years ago

All fixed - big thanks to Allan at Aardvark pinball

http://www.ardvarkpr.com

It was IC at U7

So in summary, the left pop was energized and fried:

Q78
Q79
R23
U7

Here's the schematic

Screen Shot 2020-05-17 at 9.18.33 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-05-17 at 9.18.33 AM (resized).png
#24 3 years ago

Thanks for the update!

Glad you got it fixed.

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