I searched the archives, and didn't find anything specifically on this subject. I'll apologize in advance for what's probably a dumb question, but I figure it's better to ask than to do damage to the machine, as I'm a little behind the curve when it comes to board work (as simple as this one may be).

I recently picked up a Fish Tales that needed a bit of work, but has come together nicely... but I'm plagued by one bulb that doesn't work and I want to fix it without screwing anything else up in the process

The "stringer tail #4" light worked briefly after I re-bulbed the machine, but has stopped working. I have done the following:

- Changed the bulb to a known working bulb
- Changed the bulb holder to a new one, after testing the new holder (with the new bulb) in another spot on the same board
- Checked the connection at J133 (pin 5)
- Checked the connection at J137 (pin 3)

Assumption: If the other items on Q96 (stringer tails 1, 2, 3, etc.) are working, and the other items on Q87 (extra ball light, stringer body 4, etc.) are working.... then I can rule out both transistors, correct?

CAN I safely test for voltage by connecting J133 to J137 via my DMM? Or will that cause a short?

If the diode on the board has gone bad, I assume the light would remain off, not on, correct? I'm thinking this is my most likely suspect.

Is there anything else I should be checking?

fish tales lamp matrix (resized).jpg

You mean soldering the tabs on bulb holder to the contact spots on the board?

Sorry guys-- had to step out for a meeting.

Yes, the diodes are on the light board itself.

I will check the connecting pins-- they looked good when I gave them an initial look, but I can reflow as necessary. I didn't think to wiggle that connector a bit to see if the light comes on-- I will try that when I get home from work.

So, as I mentioned before, the header pins looked fine, even under magnification. I reflowed them anyway, and that bulb started working again.

Thanks for your input guy.