(Topic ID: 139462)

Help make sense of resistor board

By jaywire

8 years ago


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  • 25 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by ForceFlow
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    IMAG1013.jpg
    IMAG1008.jpg
    IMAG1006.jpg
    sys3flashresistor.jpg
    Glad_schem.jpg
    IMAG1001.jpg
    IMAG1002.jpg
    IMAG1000.jpg
    IMAG0995.jpg
    #1 8 years ago

    I have a gottlieb system 3 and the flasher lamps aren't working.

    I've been pointed in the direction of some resistors beneath the playfield from another forum user (thanks!) And I can I see something doesn't look right.

    However I'm a bit of a noob and what I can see makes no sense to me.

    It looks like maybe a resistor at r1 has been replaced and modified . Also see the ground lug at bottom of pic I think the wires in the red tape at top of image should attach here?

    Can anyone take a look at the image here and help me make sense of what's going on please?

    IMAG0995.jpgIMAG0995.jpg

    #2 8 years ago

    That board has definitely been hacked. What game is it for?

    #3 8 years ago

    Gladiators

    #4 8 years ago

    Oooops! Caint download Gott manuals! I won't be much help without it. Sorry...

    #5 8 years ago

    Someone replaced the top resistor and didnt have the correct value so they made one.

    You will need a meter and measure all three resistors to see if they match the value written on the side.
    There is a good chance that one of the two that havent been replaced is non-working. (open)

    #6 8 years ago

    Those resistors are 5 ohm 10 watt for clarification

    #7 8 years ago

    Yeah, but that hacked one isn't in the right spot either, is it?

    #8 8 years ago
    Quoted from Mrjamma:

    Someone replaced the top resistor and didnt have the correct value so they made one.
    You will need a meter and measure all three resistors to see if they match the value written on the side.
    There is a good chance that one of the two that havent been replaced is non-working. (open)

    Thanks, pal. I had it suggested that maybe because this was exported to Europe it may explain changes...

    Anyone know what the lug at the bottom is for?

    #9 8 years ago
    Quoted from jaywire:

    Thanks, pal. I had it suggested that maybe because this was exported to Europe it may explain changes...
    Anyone know what the lug at the bottom is for?

    Are all those yellow wires soldered to the top lug?

    If so, then the white ones may go to the lug marked Lamp.

    You really need a manual to reference. Any one with a Gott Sys3 manual care to take a look at (HINT) their manual's resistor board page?

    #10 8 years ago
    Quoted from cody_chunn:

    Are all those yellow wires soldered to the top lug?
    If so, then the white ones may go to the lug marked Lamp.
    You really need a manual to reference. Any one with a Gott Sys3 manual care to take a look at (HINT) their manual's resistor board page?

    I checked a couple manuals I have. This board doesn't make an appearance. It also doesn't appear on PBR's circuit board page. It might be limited to just Gladiators or just a small number of titles.

    Does it have a part number on it?

    #11 8 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I checked a couple manuals I have. This board doesn't make an appearance. It also doesn't appear on PBR's circuit board page. It might be limited to just Gladiators or just a small number of titles.
    Does it have a part number on it?

    Thank you for looking.

    #12 8 years ago

    i actually have the gladiators manual and the board is not there. there is a 'resistor board' (A13) but this is not it.

    yes, the yellow wires are soldered to the top lug. the white/green wires (4 of them i think) have been soldered to something at some point because beneath the red tape you can see. it fits the vicinity of the bottom lug also in its wiring, but as i can't make head nor tails of the thing (although everyone here is helping me drill down possibilities so thanks!), i'm reluctant to just solder it back in...

    #13 8 years ago

    Is there a number that starts with "MA-" in black ink somewhere?

    #14 8 years ago

    I wouldn't reconnect the wires until I got the correct value resistors installed back in the correct spots. That circuit has been fundamentally changed with the 'work' that's been done on it.

    How about your schematics? Do they show wiring going to a dashed-line square/rectangle with 5 ohm 10 watt resistors (and one or two more high-wattage resistors)?

    #15 8 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Is there a number that starts with "MA-" in black ink somewhere?

    No MA part number but something on backside of pcb...actually looks like a Williams logo?

    IMAG1000.jpgIMAG1000.jpg

    Still poring over schematics...

    #16 8 years ago

    That board also appears not to be a Gottlieb part. Look at the font on the white lettering, it looks more like a Williams/Bally part.

    Oh, OK, I see the pic now, Williams logo. Hmmm

    #17 8 years ago

    Yeah, I don't think that board is factory. Someone may have replaced the Gottlieb board that was supposed to be there with the board that your seeing now.

    #18 8 years ago

    That explains why the resistors are soldered in the wrong places.

    #19 8 years ago

    OK, so I've been trying to find anything in schematics that could help. This is like reading a foreign language to me so I could be way off...

    I found this section in the playboard schematics that sort of seems appropriate.

    IMAG1002.jpgIMAG1002.jpg

    The section showing the 67 I think shows bulbs and it lists the 'domes' here. Now flashers are also known as domes, right? If so this looks like these circuits go to a resistor R1 with .33 5w now I don't know what that means but maybe it's a starting point for me.

    I'm enjoying the learning so please forgive my possibly stupid questions.

    Also a full page schematic:

    IMAG1001.jpgIMAG1001.jpg

    #20 8 years ago

    If I'm interpreting the Gott color codes, it looks like the GREEN/GRAY/GRAY come in, go through a .33 ohm 5 watt resistor then out on the yellow wires to the flashlamps.

    Can someone confirm?

    Glad schem.jpgGlad schem.jpg

    #21 8 years ago

    All those flashers go through a single 0.33 ohm, 5W resistor that is mounted by itself somewhere in the cabinet or under the PF. There is no circuit board.

    If you look in your backbox, you may be able to find the one for the lightbox flashers. Its mounted on the backside of the lightbox, near one of the flasher sockets.

    Attached is a snapshot of one in a backbox from Teed Off (in the left part of the yellow circle).

    So all you need to do is disconnect that board, and get a 0.33 ohm, 5w resistor and mount it to the cabinet somewhere convenient. Make sure you get a POINT-33 ohm (that's 33/100 of an ohm -- ie, a fraction of an ohm -- not 33 ohms).

    sys3flashresistor.jpgsys3flashresistor.jpg

    #22 8 years ago

    Thanks guys for the help. I've desoldered that board above and ordered a new resistor (with a couple of spares just in case) and I'll hopefully get it all up and running tomorrow.

    Fingers crossed for happy smiling flasher pics!

    #23 8 years ago

    OK, so I made the modification and I have a partial success.

    IMAG1006.jpgIMAG1006.jpg

    All flashers bar one work as they should and the lightstrip at the back now works.

    IMAG1008.jpgIMAG1008.jpg

    The one bulb that doesn't work is constantly on as shown in pic. It also happens to be the right ramp dome and I think also flashes when you need to hit the spinner. So it comes on for two things at two different solenoids.

    Can anyone offer suggestions where to start with this one?

    #24 8 years ago

    OK, so I've tested dc voltage at lamp and its reading about 20v on lamp lug which it should be. The other lug reads .01 which is the same as other flasher lamps.

    I then found some posts that suggest when something is stuck 'on' like a solenoid or flash lamp, it could be a short in a switch or just a bad switch.

    Checking schematics I worked my way back to the driver board and located the corresponding mosfet at Q16, then used the guide over at pinrepair to diagnose it.

    Turns out the mosfet that controls my non working flasher lamp is bad.

    IMAG1013.jpgIMAG1013.jpg

    I have now ordered a replacement part and have begun the desoldering of the bad mosfet - I have to say it's a bit nerve wracking! I've not done much soldering in the past and these components are so small...

    #25 8 years ago
    Quoted from jaywire:

    I have now ordered a replacement part and have begun the desoldering of the bad mosfet - I have to say it's a bit nerve wracking! I've not done much soldering in the past and these components are so small...

    A 1/16" or 1/32" soldering tip can be helpful when working with some of the smaller stuff.

    Also, after you have put the legs through the board, bend them in different directions at about a 60 degree angles. This will prevent the component from falling out while soldering. Then just clip the excess portion of the legs off when you're done.

    Good job diagnosing the issue

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