This happened to me while putting on a 2nd coat when the first coat was dry to the touch,
but not totally dry which made the solvents from the 2nd coat eat the first coat's solvents.
But after 2 days, not to mention a week, that primer should have been 100% dry..
I maybe would try contacting Rust-Oleum. That may be is what I did to now know about
the solvents, but that was paint on paint, not paint on primer, but the results looked just
like what you have..

Usually that kind of crinkling/lifting is caused by the two substances not "liking" each other. Something on the base/primer surface is not getting along well with something in the paint. Is one an oil base? As far as others using the same products -- not sure what they'd be doing different? Sanding the primer first?

I've had similar issues even out of the same can of spray paint -- paint an object, wait several days, try a second coat and the lifting can occur. There is something in the curing process that causes it to react adversely.

Not a direct answer, but I'd make sure the primer and paint are compatible.

BTW: I now put on multiple coats within an hour of each other. Haven't had a problem since.
Last week I primed a coin box, then painted it an hour later applying multiple fairly
thin coats, and all was good. I always use both Rust-Oleum Primer and Paint..
Rust-Oleum phone#: 1 (877) 385-8155

I used to love the Painters Touch line but since they have made the formula including primer i have had nothing but problems with it!

Rust-Oleum only sticks to Rust-Oleum, no other paints will stick to it. Especially if a top coat is laid on thick. The Top coat will lift, like the photos above. Think it is called 'Crow Feet'.

I’ve had this happen a few times and I just went through it recently on a melody repaint. If my phone hadn’t been damaged I’d post a pic that looks exactly like yours. I had to paint some spots 3 times.

Only conclusions I’ve come to is I don’t think it’s surface prep (naptha) or paint compatibility (same 2x products). To me it has happened if the paint is laid on heavy and/or not given a long time to dry. For some reason if I lay the 2x stuff on thick it takes FOREVER to cure (like over a week).

It also happens every time Ive ever layed down their (enamel) clear and then tried to put any 2x enamel color over that.

I stopped using their primer altogether because i tended to overdo the primer thickness and it would do it to me then.

If it makes you feel better here is an after pic. Comes out nice when it works.
The dark blue bands had to be repainted twice. Had to take them to bare wood without messing up the white. What a pain!

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Are you using the "Flat White" in your picture as a primer or as a color coat?

I'd probably try something different than using a paint/primer combo -- it may be good for single coverage but not multiple layers/coverage. I imagine they are marketing these paints for someone that wants to spray their rusty lawn chair and not high end pinball cabinet art.

I swear I did not read this when typing my reply (look at the times!) -- looks like we are thinking the same thoughts!

Yes, that is what causes the solvents from the 2nd coat to eat the 1st coat's solvents.
I no longer let the coats exceed 30 minutes. The same procedure worked for me with
paint on Primer..
If it's not Hammertone, I don't use Primer/Paint combo..

Worth mentioning that my recent experience with this on my melody wasn’t with Rust-Oleum 2x. That was krylon so just be aware it’s happened to me with other brands too.

I bought that paint once. I shook the can for what seemed like forever. When the paint came out it was like water, and the coverage was a joke. Maybe I got part of a bad batch, but I am in no rush to give it a second chance.

What stuff was used as the flat white primer?

Was the above recent picture painted with light coatsa a few minutes apart or a heavy coat with no waiting in between?

If you put spray paint on thick it could take MONTHS to cure.

Take some fine sandpaper and sand a little spot.

Smell the sanded spot, does it still smell like solvents? Then it's not fully cured.

See that run that you think has dried? Do a thumbnail test. Did it dent? Then it's not fully cured.

You can put that paint plus primer stuff onto bare wood and if it gets too thick or the humidity is too high it will always lift. I'll never use that junk again, is it too late for you to switch to rustoleum without the primer added?

I have two word to share with you, Ironlak & Molotow.

Sucks you had to endure the mess, you will be happy with these two companies paints. I have personally used original kilz primer, roll on and rattle can with success.

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I like real Killz as a primer (Killz Original), it's lacquer based, so it cures crazy fast.

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....Ive had it tinted Yellow with good results on a Tommy.

Kills is the best, I just used it the first time for a primer........I be using forever now. All done with rustoleum within 7 days. But I use satin not gloss

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I paint aircraft but we sometimes use car paint products and the color touch up spay cans and this sometimes happens because of temp, or the coat under shrinks and will wrinkle the top coat. It's a crap shoot sometimes if you can't control some factors like humidity and temp. We sometimes put a flex agent in the paint but then we have more control over our environment in our paint booth.

Where did you paint today? Was it humid?

Did you sand the white before spraying the yellow?

sounds like some kind of contamination since it's just one surface that keeps fighting? Sand it, and put a skim coat of filler on the wood to give you a new base to work from. Sand, prime, and paint.

Have you tried changing the can you are using?

Sand out the wrinkles, put the cab in the sun to bake it (or put it under hot 300w lightbulb for a day to cure), prime with Original Kilz to seal off the old stuff, put ONE coat of yellow down, call it done.

I wonder if the back of the cabinet has been sitting stored vertically, on a concrete floor. It may have sucked moisture for years, preventing your primer/paint to fully cure.

On my Xenon, I had a similar issue where the back of the cabinet had sucked so much water and moisture from sitting on the ground/concrete, that it was warped and chipping. The little plastic feet are useless when it comes to isolating the cabinet from the ground.

Yes, try to isolate with Kilz (only the back), let it dry and paint one coat of yellow. Then place the machine against the wall.
You will never look at it again.

Yves

I was meaning something in the wood itself. Moisture, chemicals, something. You've been focusing on the paint, maybe it's something in the substrate impacting the paint. That's why everyone is going down the path of 'sealing' the wood in some way. My suggestion was to create a new surface with filler in case the situation in the substrate would impact other primers too.

One thing I always make sure to do is make sure my paint and my work are the same temp. If I'm painting outdoors, I leave my paint outdoors (in a shaded area) to reach the same temperature as my work, same if I'm painting in my booth.
I've had similar issues to yours if I don't remember to do this.
If you back had been in full sun, even in OH, perhaps that caused the issues?

I had an e-Mail exchange with Jeff from Pinball Pimp, and he mentioned using the Rustoleum 2x Prime+Paint in Gloss for the Museum Quality restoration of his Mata Hari.

Of course, Jeff lives in Florida where the weather is hot but humid. Apparently, he has no problem with this brand of spray cans.

Mrm_4, I am like you, restoring a Mata Hari and about to embark with the Rustoleum spray cans that I just bought this morning. I have not started stripping the cabinet of its original paint and wondered how I will approach this delicate task:

- Roughly sand the original paint and patch holes and blemishes. Then paint over with the Marigold can, without any primer.
- Take it down to the wood as you did, prime it and then paint with the Marigold Gloss.

I think I am going to try the lightbox first, and see how it reacts to the first option.

Yves

Well in a weird coincidence i read this thread last night, and today my wife asked me to repaint this tool hanger which I had spray painted yellow a few days ago. She decided she didnt like the color and wanted it just spray painted black. So I did, heres what I used and heres the result.
Same crappy problem. Maybe its the "plus primer" that is causing it? The yellow coat went on just fine.

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I painted my custom game with the 2X on the suggestions of others and had some issues on the front similar to yours.

Peel

In my case I used high-fill autobody primer and the 2X heirloom white as the base and 2X red. No issues on the side, just the front. After I stripped it down and re-primed it was fine. So, as others have said, probably something in the base wood.

Going forward I'll prime with Kilz.

Sides are fine

Just remember that anything rattle-can has mega solvents.

Those solvents often violently react with many old paints that are lacquer based.

They even sometimes violently react with their own paint if it's too thick or the last coat is not completely cured.

You never have that problem with Createx, or when you have the Hardware store color match in latex.