When I bought my F-14 Tomcat, a brand new sheet of insert decals was included with table. How can I determine if they are water slide or laminated type? There is no info on sheet.
When I bought my F-14 Tomcat, a brand new sheet of insert decals was included with table. How can I determine if they are water slide or laminated type? There is no info on sheet.
^^^^this^^^
Usually they are stickers.....in fact I have yet to see water slide. I would never use water slide on a playfield.
Planetary Pinball Supply sells both laminated and non-laminated decals for F14. I spoke to them on the phone and was advised that both types are somewhat sticky on the back and sit on the same backing. He said the only way to tell was to inspect it under a magnifier and look for this:
If laminated, you should see two layers of mylar with ink in between.
If non-laminated, you should see ink on top of mylar (one layer).
I can't see it with my lousy vision and cheap magnifier glass. I think you would need a microscope to be sure. I guess I will have to fork for a new set of decals to know what I have.
Buyer beware! I asked if there was any indication as to the type of decal listed on the set and was told that there isn't.
If there laminated there a lot thicker you may want to test one that you don't need to see if it's ink up. I bought decals from a vendor and they came with no information . I installed the ones I needed and waxed playfield and the ink came right off my newly installed decals
Laminated or not laminated is for a sticker. You can get a decal/sticker either way. Basically all it means is the made the stickers....or they made the stickers then laminated them (second layer to protect ink). Laminated makes it thicker and some prefer thin as it is less likely to affect ball travel.
Waterslide is completely different, and it usually a homemade type of thing.
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Great idea!
Thanks much..
I couldn't feel the waterslide decals after clearcoats....so smoooooth!!!
The problem is...can you do clearcoats?
IMG_1869.JPG
So I just bought a set of these same stickers. As mentioned, they have a thickness that WSDs do not. I will clear coat the playfield using the varathane method when I am done. Should I use my stickers, or make a copy and make my own WSDs? Asking for advice and opinion. These stickers under clear coat, or make my own water slide decals for under clear coat.
(Please do not berate me for my decision to use varathane. Budget and other issues prohibit me from using auto clear coats.)
I'm installing a Markrolon playfield protector when done so I'll just use what I have. Not going to clear coat at all. No flippin way I'm removing the inserts and tearing everything off the bottom of playfield and chancing a half asses clear coat job with rattle cans. It works great for some people, but I would F**k it up.
Just wanted to know because laminated would be the better choice for beneath protector.
Thanks
Quoted from boneman91:So I just bought a set of these same stickers. As mentioned, they have a thickness that WSDs do not. I will clear coat the playfield using the varathane method when I am done. Should I use my stickers, or make a copy and make my own WSDs? Asking for advice and opinion. These stickers under clear coat, or make my own water slide decals for under clear coat.
(Please do not berate me for my decision to use varathane. Budget and other issues prohibit me from using auto clear coats.)
Won't you end up just paying for this decision when you sell the game? To me the use of varathane would be a major detractor.
I suppose a varathane topcoat could be a detraction to game value if I was planning on selling it. But even if I was going to sell it, the cost of a top notch professional clear coating overtop of my first attempt at major playfield refurbishing just doesn't make much sense. My playfield refurb in itself will probably lower the value of the machine, but I bought the machine for the fun and challenge of trying to fix it up to the best of MY abilities. I am unable and unwilling to use the super toxic auto clear coats, so I think varathane is the best I can do. The machine was in bad shape when I got it, and I feel like I an rescuing this machine from destruction already. So if I use a "second best" method of protecting the playfield I am content with that.
Aside from auto clear, what would you guys use as "second best?" I can easily buy another mylar for $30, but I just spent a lot of effort removing the original one. I don't want to spend $200 for the clear lexan protector. But I've got to protect my paint repairs somehow.
You are really going to dull your colors and gloss with that Varathane.
Why not just go to the auto parts store, get a backyard car painter off the bulletin board, and have him shoot a layer of clear?
If you tell him just to "clean out his gun at the end of a run", he will probably charge you $50.
That's a good idea. Not being a car guy, didn't know that existed. Will wonder in to my local Auto Zone and see what info I can find. Thanks for the suggestion.
But back to my original question. Should I use my thicker stickers or photo copy them onto water slide decal paper and make my own water slide decals?
Quoted from boneman91:But back to my original question. Should I use my thicker stickers or photo copy them onto water slide decal paper and make my own water slide decals?
You know the Waterslide decals can be clearcoated.
You would have to ask the manufacturer of the stickers if that can be done.
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